Wine descriptors are
among many parameters also associations and known to include the word “sexy”.
That’s however just an appetizer, because today’s so called tasting notes uses
parallels to famous characters, which personality acts as a hybrid to describe the
taste or feel of a wine.
The idea in itself is not
bad.
With one stroke you can
connect a wine to a person, who most people will probably know and have an idea
how that person fits into the tasting note.
But here the allure
starts to fade out…..
You see – most
descriptors are really corny, sleazy and mostly written by men. They tend to
swing in a direction of describing voluptuous women - actresses, models or rock
stars. A Pamela Anderson wine – a
classic and we all know what that is – or do we? The Italian equivalent: A
Sophia Loren wine, Spain: Penélope
Cruz and France has to be Bridget
Bardot – or?
We could try to replace
the female names above with some male celebrities. So how about a John Wayne, Humphrey
Bogart or a Darth Vader wine? Not really – maybe a George Cloony wine…I know my
wife will like that and I can imagine such a wine – can you? The Italian
version… Berlusconi..naaahhh not really, what about a Eros Ramazotti wine? The
Spanish red has to be a Pedro Almodovar, right? And the French wine could be a
Jean-Paul Belmondo…not that I would look forward to drink such a wine.
The more I think about it
– it’s kind of sick really.
Anyway – I don’t really
know were I am going with this, other than I am about to present a wine, which
label should make theses sexy descriptors redundant.
2010 Jean-François Ganevat “J'en
Veux”
Blend: 17 different grapes
Blend: 17 different grapes
Terroir: Most likely
several – coming from Ganevat 1,8 hectare, which ranges from schists, clays and
marls
Vines: Ungrafted – some
over 100 years old.
Location: Jura
Sulphur: zero
Alcohol: 11%
Other: All grapes are
de-stemmed by hand
Glass: Zalto Bourgogne
How does 17 forgotten
grapes taste like? “Dangerous wine” one of my friends said – and the importer
just smiled…and what’s is Ganevat trying to say with this label? I can’t answer
that – but I can try to give you an idea what’s underneath the panties.
The wine is pure bliss
and fulfilling almost everything I am looking for in a red wine. Red fruit of fresh
raspberries, rosehip and a super delicate spicy note, which I simply couldn’t
nail – other than it was something like a combination of some earthy notes, mineral
spine and iodine. The taste is super light – super clean yet, powder sleek
texture, yet with enormous precision and with a stunning drinking pleasure.
It’s one of those wines you know will not rest for a day 2 and it’s gone pretty
fast.