Tuesday, December 30, 2008

2006 K Vintners, Syrah The Deal Sundance Vineyard, Washington, USA

(Glass; Riedel Sommerliers Bordeaux Grand Cru, Decanted 3 hours)

I am slowly coming out of my cold and flu, which has haunted me most of December. So – I needed a wine for my wife’s great veal dish and something with some power to get those taste buds back again. Regrettably my choice of wine was utterly revolting. Let’s start with the alcohol which is 15,5% - a lot more than I am used to and this was a major problem for me. The wines starts fair – with blackberries and some tar, but also an underlying good backbone nerve – which reminded me of iron. With air notes of plum and even over the top notes of prunes starts’ messing with the wine and the wines becomes bold and boring. The taste is seriously hot – the alcohol burns on the palate and it’s killing the food and ruining the drinking pleasure. Over half the bottle is now in the fridge again – and I will have a test again tomorrow – but the odds a seriously for it getting poured into the sink. A worthy candidate for the worst wine I have tasted this year.


Thursday, December 25, 2008

NV (2004) Vouette et Sorbee, Cuvée Blanc d'Argile, Champagne

(Disg.: 20/12-2006)

If this continues I will have to rename my blog to Mad about Champagne. This is the microscopically Champagne producer Voette et Sorbee, which is not easy to get hold of here in Denmark. It’s been some time since I tasted wines from this producer and this is the first time with the Blanc d'Argile. I have tried the 100% Pinot Noir wine; “Fidéle” and The “Rosé Saignée de Sorbée”. On both occasions I found the wines lacking somewhat in juiciness. However that was then and this is now – and I am now far better experienced with small biodynamic producers and I don’t get so spooked anymore. Also, as this the brilliant blogger; Peter Liem points out http://www.peterliem.com/; the wines from Vouette et Sorbee requires some time in the bottle. Let’s return to the wine which I found utterly charming. It’s a flower bomb, with intense freshly pressed apple juice, but still with a very fragile and elegant personality, which certainly draws parallels to Chablis. To stay on the Chablis path – the oak or should I say mineral smoke is just fabulous and here again, it’s brilliantly how subtle this note is. The acidity is also stunning – precise, fragile and pure – just how I like it and very food friendly. Immensely and delicate drinking pleasure once again – Champagne is killing me.


Since this note – I am once again down with a heavy flu and cold. Not the best X-mas one could wish for.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

2005 Diel, Cuvée Victor, Germany

(Glass; Zalto Burgundy)

The German Nahe producer Diel amazes me. His portfolio counts all your thinkable Riesling versions to a world class Pinot Noir wine called Caroline. I find the wines from Diel incredible charming with certain creaminess to them. Here in the glass is the Cuvée Victor which is made from Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. The wine is very funky and on the verge of becoming bizarre at some stages. It opens up with melon, flowers, smoke and again this creamy Diel-style, which here is expressed with melted butter. As it evolves in the glass, additional layers come along with hay, mild caramel and even dried apricot. The latter note almost gives the wine a dessert feeling and I don’t think I have ever smelled anything like it. Even though I have almost called it bizarre – I have to confess that I spend a lot of time with my nose in the glass and smiled somewhat of its unique character. Unfortunately the taste is not my cup of tea. It molds a lot in the mouth and burns too much alcohol on the finish line, with very low minerality and acidity. Speaking alcohol – after 2/3 of the bottle had been drunk I really felt the 14% of alcohol in my body – not a particular pleasant feeling and still have 1/3 left in the fridge.


Picture will be uplaoded if I have the time.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

2001 Felsina, "Fontalloro", Tuscany, Italy

(Glass; Riedel Sommeliers Bordeuax Grand Cru)

I have enjoyed this wine many times before. It’s currently a bit tight and in a sleeping phase. Still it’s an interesting wine to drink. The nose is a bit muted, or should a say – the red berry fruits and young sweetness is currently more dominated by dark cherries. The nose is however rather linear, where you sense the Sangiovese character and everything is a tight as the paint on a red Ferrari. The taste is however rather yummy. Here you can really talk about linear – brilliant pure curl with high acidity – just as I like it. I guess it will come out of its hide in 2-3 years and provide a decade of drinking pleasure.


Saturday, December 20, 2008

2003 David Leclapart ” l`Apôtre”, Champagne, France

(Deg.: Dec-2007)
(Glasses ; Spiegelau Adina Bordeaux and Zalto Champagne)

Ladies and gentlemen – this Champagne is delicious. l`Apôtre is the sort of Champagne one dream about – well at least yours truly does, so take your precautions when you read this note – I am biased and basically in love.
I had plans to decant this Champagne, but you know… my two wonderful kids, bedtime stories and food preparation (okay so we had sushi) does not always goes as planned. But I did something else – I poured myself a proper glass of this glorious Champagne half an hour before we sat down in the rather big red wine glass from Spiegelau / Adina (it’s this one http://www.spiegelau.com/img/products/detail/x1440135.jpg) and when we sat down, the first glass was still “Adina” and then we switched to Zalto. So why this glass confusion? Simply; to open this sophisticated Champagne up and bring all of its layers out and because it’s a slow starter. 2003 is however more approachable compared to 2002 and the recently tasted 2004 vintage. The nose starts of with too much oak (did exactly the same last time), which in this case is a bit a bit annoying to me, as it takes balance from the purity. Bit within 5 minutes in this big glass, it turns and now the magic starts to appear. From here it’s pure pleasure and constantly putting on in weight – this Champagne is so pure and it’s incredible how it touches me. I am amazed how vinous this Champagne is and it’s probably my affection for pure Rieslings and Champagne that collide here and bring out Goosebumps. It’s like 14 years of tasting wine ends right here – I have reached my goal. Alright, before it becomes too sentimental – let’s have a closer look at this 2003. The nose is like a big field of flowers, juicy apples and with this extremely sensual creamy touch which is breathtaking. It can best be describes as a sort of biodynamic purity and it has these dried fruits and especially baby banana. The oak is constantly there, but it’s so well balanced and just giving that warm feeling and overall adding to the complex layers to show better. However this 2003 has in general a touch of warmth, but its minor – and for sure it’s adding to the charming profile, but taking some balance away from the Champagne to have that high profiled acidity and mineral snap. And that’s probably its only fault. What else – my wife thought this was the best Champagne she had ever tasted (and she has good taste ;-) ). Conclusion; – there is a herd of great Champagnes out there and I luckily I have a broad palate, but when it comes to l`Apôtre I am easy target and already seduced for life. Mama Mia – I have to buy more.

Tasted 20/12-2008

Saturday, December 6, 2008

2004 Roberto Voerzio, Da Uva Merlot, Piemonte, Italy

(Glass; Riedel Sommeliers Bordeaux Grand Cru)

It’s not everyday I taste a wine like this. This is the rather limited Merlot from cult producer Roberto Voerzio in Piemonte, where Merlot is not quit that common. The opening of the wine is something else and not at all what I expected. The wine is rock hard and an herbal overload, almost like a green tea. I immediately decided to decant. 1½ hour later the wine had transformed, but the high level of herbs never left the wine. With air the herbs get accompanied by a sweet plum note. Ahh yes, the attentive reader might have noticed that the plum note is something that I dislike and connect with alcohol, but not entirely here. You see – the 14% alcohol is felt with this plum note, but the herbs makes it a lot more refined and cool tempered and combine these two things and the herbal note almost goes into a pine needles note. The nose also has; black fruits, some chocolate and mild level of blueberries. Overall there is brilliant purity, style and personality over this wine, it’s seriously something else. The taste is also surprising – brilliant tight curl around the tongue, strong structure and the herbal touch is also here. Currently you get a little bit of tannin bitterness and the wine is still a baby. A wine with strong personality and refinement – I guess its 4-5 years away from a maturity window.

(Tasted 5/12-2008)