I don’t
know about you, but when studying to become a wine geek I adapted to some
habits, which seemed pretty logic at the time. I had to do with seasonality and
the wine we chose to drink as the ambient conditions changed. It bounced
perfectly with the rhythms of the foods that were in season and the culinary
traditions, which were associated.
As the
weather turned colder here at my latitudes, the food increased its density and
structure. Likewise wines were acquired to match these dishes and they were
often bolder, darker, more alcoholic and with higher masculinity. We need wines
that can warm our body and souls. Modern mankind are raised with seasonality
behaviour - just think about how fashion collections changes from fall/winter
vs spring/summer collection; fabric, weight and colours.
Christmas
eve here in Denmark is often pinpointed to be the fulcrum of winter with duck,
rich brown sauce and the tricky warm red cabbage, which could kill any wine
match. When I think of this evening I often get an association of two fat pigs
dancing tango in a sauna. Doesn’t sound right or groovy – does it? There has to
be an alternative.
As the
daylight increased and milder weather is on the rise it’s logical to turn the
preferences towards crispy “white” offerings, which for my part have included
more and more Champagne. Spring is a sensational period for Champagne with the
entire flowering, crisp cool air, low humidity and the bright sunlight. I get
Champagne thirsty just thinking of day in May with a glass of Champagne on the terrace.
However
there is something I believe we have overlooked when it comes to winter and
Champagne pairing – or maybe I should say I have made a personal discovery. The
alternative I have been missing.
For my part
Champagne works miraculously at wintertime. I think the primary reason for my appetite
could be very well be that spring and wintertime feeds of the same concept of
cool and clean air, which sets my association and needs towards cool tempered
wines. Even the snowfall can contribute to my desires as the peaceful drops
from the sky acts as a puritan association, where snow virtually advocates for
innocence, crystallized clarity and a weightless elegance. Champagne fits the recipe.
So with
this small intro I have some short and recent Champagne experiences for you:
Lovely
crisp, pure and fresh Chardonnay with blessed yellow fruits and sizzling
intense energy. Still on the young side, but I will never know how it will
evolve because this was my one and only bottle.
2009
Dermane-Frison “Goustan” Brut Nature
I loved the
’07 of Goustan for it’s sensorial sweetness and lovely clay soil attack. The
’09 are shaped from the same frame, but it’s a fraction more intense, robust –
but also tighter. The ’07 did however evolve quite quickly in the bottle, but I
suspect the ’09 might take a year or two longer to reach the same state. Lovely stuff.
NV Laherte
BdB Brut Nature
I have had
it so many times and I can never get tired of this minimalistic and honest
expression.
NV Laherte
“Les 7 (former Les Clos)”
Every time
I open a new “Les 7” I tend to mark it as the best example I have ever tried.
This is once again such an experience. I love how this Champagne are able to
range from sophisticated spices, black tea notes, brutal soil attack and high
pitched lime zest. Think this bottle was disgorged in early 2010.
2006 David
Léclapart “L’Artiste”
Do you know
the feeling of have a clear idea how a certain wine will taste like before you
sniff the glass? I was 99% sure how the ’06 L’Artiste would be like before I
put my nose into the glass as I have actually tasted it once before. I was
wrong and I actually thought something was wrong with the bottle. Maybe I just
have a bad memory, because there was indeed nothing wrong with either bottle or
the Champagne itself. Rather accessible at the moment - insanely intense with
supernatural energy and notes of pastry and apple zest. WOW!!!
“2009
Marie-Courtin “Concordance” Extra Brut
Third time
I have this sans soufre Champagne and
I am ecstatic about it. There is a tasting note here – which fits two of the
experiences. But it’s the third @ restaurant Formel B, which are described
here: It’s perhaps one of the freest Champagnes I have ever tasted and it’s so
interesting. The notes are quit exotic, ranging from overripe peach, mango with
deeper layers of walnuts and musk perfume. The taste has this elastic clay
feeling and it’s so interesting. I can’t wait to taste it again – but I will
wait 1 year.
2008
Marie-Courtin “Eloquence” Extra Brut
First time
I taste this 100% Bdb from Marie-Courtin. First I should tell you that I have a
thing with high acidity, which I tend to like and I am rarely scared by really
high-pitched breeds. I find it exceptional interesting when the acidity cuts
like a spine through the wine and associate either lemon or lime zest attack on
the taste buds. For me it’s a tribute to the diversity and how such a Champagne
can act as the perfect starter to a menu where the taste buds are kept fresh
and alive – ready for more. Les 7
from Laherte has it and this is also the case for Eloquence, which I absolutely
adored. It started off with a combination of creamy sweet biodynamic notes -
such as baby banana mixed with the vanilla notes from the oak and then leaning
into pear, apple, lemon and lime. With air these oak perfumes retracts and is
replaced with a grassier, mineral and stringent baseline, where this spinal
acidity raises both intellect and energy. Fantastic Champagne.
2006
Emmanuel Brochet “Vintage” Extra Brut
Lovely
Champagne – with really robust core, delivering an intense and rich style. It's still on the young side, with greenish apple scents blending in, bringing
clarity, backbone and a balanced counterweight to the bold expression. Give it
2-3 years and it will be perfect (I guess).
1988 Krug
Where do
Krug get this concentration from – do they have a secret formula? When having
this served blind by my good friend Andreas in Stockholm, I wasn’t a second in
doubt that I had Krug in the glass. I guessed ’88 or ’85. When you stick your
nose into this thing it might come off as being a typical Champagne with some
age to it. But after a few seconds the inner core hits you like a volcano and
takes on a rollercoaster ride into power and elegance. What makes Krug stand
out IMHO is it’s vinous side and the fact that you can raise it in temperature,
serve it a bigger glass, make the bubbles die out and actually provoke even
more complexity. That’s a sign of class and a kind of litmus test. Almost all
of the pioneers Champagne names I love to drink can break this test – so can
Krug, but many big house cuvée fails.
NV Selosse
“Substance”
(Disgorged
April-2007)
For me
Substance are like a Chameleon and a Champagne I always have hesitated to buy.
Most of my experiences have left me with a “too much” and a somewhat confused impression. A common denominator has however always been an extremely
expressive Champagne and this was also the case with this bottle, which I had
in Stockholm. This experience is however – by far – the best Substance I have
ever tasted. It was served right after 1988 Krug and sort of blended it and we
didn’t “loose height”, just changed the scenery. This bottle has an outrageous
scent of seductive evening perfume with deep vanilla, sweet woody amber-citrus
notes with Selosse’s typical oxidized notes of overripe quince. There is an
unheard balance to this Champagne, despite its density. Incredible vinous
experience that you almost forgot you were drinking a Champagne. Can’t help to
wonder if the trick with Substance is actually to give cellar it +5 years from
disgorgement date?
2004
Bérèche “Instant”
Was
expecting a more evolved Champagne by now. But it’s actually pretty tight with
bright acidity sparkle and lots of citrus fruits. Lovely clarity and more
expressive above 14 degrees, but still it seems to be in a closed phase like
many other ‘04s.
2006
Bérèche “Instant rosé No.1” Brut nature
Unbelievable
Champagne and one of my all time favourite rosé Champagnes. Elegant, sleek,
salty and so bloody tasty. I still have a few left and can’t wait to taste it
again.
1999
Vilmart “Grand Cellier Rubis rosé”
Round,
lush, pleasing and a Chamapagne I would describe as charming. I however didn’t feel any intimacy
“between us” and I found myself a somewhat distanced from it. The acidity is
quit low and it lowers the friskiness. When combined with oak and too high
dosage it becomes a blurry expression. I could easily drink it – and did with
pleasure, together with some friends, but I had forgot about it soon after.
2006
Georges Laval “Les Chênes”
Had high expectations,
as it’s the third time I taste this magnificent Champagne. I think Laval have
broken the sound barrier in ’06 and I hear rumours that his ‘08s are even
better. I promised you short notes, so I will only say it’s unbelievable good
Champagne. Still not as exotic as previous vintages, but I love this holding
back, because underneath are all those layers constantly bringing complex
layers to the package…..I’ll better stop here, because I will end up opening
one of my very few bottles.
2006
Georges Laval “Les Hautes-Chévres”
Served in
the same flight as “Les Chênes” together with my wine club. They actually
preferred this one. I can’t choose, but can confirm that it was once again overly majestic and I can’t think of a BdN, which can deliver such a complex
frame in ’06 vintage. Vincent – you rock, BRAVO!!!!
2008 Ulysse
Collin “Les Roises”
A good Champagne
and especially in the acclaimed ’08 vintage. I think Olivier Collin have taken
a step in the right direction with splitting his BdB release into two separate
cuvees. I would however – and I might have kinky preferences – would like to
have even more brutality and soil attack here. It’s a bit “pretty” with smooth
oak appeal and vanilla sweet fruit. However the product is sound and of great
quality and even drinking well.
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