In late November
2013 David Léclapart stopped by Lidkoeb in Copenhagen to celebrate (almost) 3 anniversaries.
His Danish
Importer “Petillant” (Mia & Mads Rudolf) celebrated their 10-year
anniversary of importing David Léclapart to Denmark. An event like this
required something to drink, so they had lined up not only 10 – but all 11
existing vintages of L’Apôtre; 1999 >>> 2009. The third anniversary
was restaurant Noma’s, who opened in Nov-2003 and where some of us (including
me) continued with a tailor made David Léclapart dinner. It should be mentioned
that their was an event on the Sunday as well @ restaurant Kadeau, where I
sadly couldn’t’ participate.
I still
remember the first time I tasted 2002 “L’Apôtre”. It was a Friday in April
2008. At that time I was searching for another route in
Champagne, which didn’t led to another blind alley of bling bling, gift boxes
and tax-free luxury goods. I knew about Selosse and Vilmart and enjoyed both,
but there had to be others making real WINE in Champagne.
2002
“L’Apôtre” blew me away and it was the first time I tasted such uncompromising
soil intensity in a bottle of Champagne. However the greatest gift about
“L’Apôtre” was the man behind it; David Léclapart, whom I had the pleasure of
meeting for the first time in April 2009, when I stopped by his place in
Trépail.
David
Léclapart is one of the most humble winemakers I have ever met. He is addition
such a kind, funny and inspirational human being and I have to confess, that my
appreciation for his wines under heavy influence of his personality. That said,
I am confident that David belongs among some of the “greatest”, but sometimes I
wonder if David actually knows that? His easygoing and bohemian approach to
life and the way he speaks about his work are never a detailed technical
presentation. David speaks more about the bigger lines, such as nature’s influence
and how he as a winemaker interacts with the given premises. He is truly
unique, hard working with a clear vision of how he wants’ to make wine.
I have of
course some notes on the 11 bottles for you, but I have to say that I am
becoming less eager about writing technical tasting notes. For sure – I am like
a robot when I sit down in a quite room and sniff to wine. My pen instantly
start to dance on the paper and I can write tasting notes in my sleep. But
tasting a glass or two of L’Apôtre is not really what this Champagne is about.
It requires a lot of air and the real conclusion (if at all any) would be more
appropriate after a whole bottle. So – take my judgements with a pinch of salt.
L’Apôtre is
always a lieu-dit made from the vineyard “La Pierre St-Martin”. The vines are
pretty old – planted in 1946 by David’s grandfather and L’Apôtre is vinified in
oak, whereas “L’Amateur” (his entry level Champagne) is vinified in steel and
“L’Artiste” is half oak / half steel.
Before we
started, several of us would have liked to be sort of calibrated with a simple
glass of some other bubbly stuff. You felt it was 1,2,3 GO!! And then one of
the greatest Champagne just landed in front of you.
David
explained how ’09 reminded him a little of ’03. Yet the burning of the sun was
more intense in ’03, yet the warmth in the two vintages was similar. ´09 is
officially not released yet and you can feel how the vanilla of the oak is too
brutal at the moment, but I would assume it would be more integrated when it’s
released in 2015. ’09 is overall a brutal beast at this stage, yet the
minerality is fascinating intense, but when you taste it at this young stage
there is too much fireworks in front of the mouth. Time will tell.
2008
“L’Apôtre”
’08 is a
hyped vintage in Champagne and from what I have tasted from other producers I
can understand why. Let’s cut to the chase; 2008 “L’Apôtre” is magic and it’s
probably one of the most harmonic young Champagnes I have ever tasted. The
fruit in this Champagne are beyond delicious – crystal clear and super ripe
material with enormous electrical intensity. The acidity is mind blowing intense, making
it already irresistible at this stage. The 2008 “L’Apôtre” are the finest ever released
IMHO and if you decided to buy it when it’s released later this year I would
suggest you try it right away before moves into a shy phase. Hunt it like demons my
fellow friends.
2007
“L’Apôtre”
’07 was a
challenge in Champagne and it shows. David saw parallels to ’01, which is
indeed also a difficult vintage. After the magic ’08 the ’07 stands out even
more awkward. The nose is quite shy and filled with herbal character and
peppermint associations. The taste is a touch better as it’s delicate drink,
yet missing a lot of bite.
2006
“L’Apôtre”
I have
always liked ’06 vintage in Champagne. It has a certain trademark, fuelled from
a really devilish intensity. Yet some cuvées needs time and that also goes for
the ’06 “L’Apôtre”, which I now taste for the third time. You have to analyze
this Champagne more on what it’s actually hiding, as it still feels like the
’06 are trapped in a small box, making its fruit flavours feel like a compact
hand grenade. Despite the taste takes the same compact shape, it’s has this devilish
intensity, strong bite and a very vibrant acidity to go with it. Give it 3-5
years more in the cellar.
2005
“L’Apôtre”
David told
us that the ’05 and ’03 had the same Ph-level. A hot vintage, but no burn on
the grapes like it happened in the rather freaky ’03 vintage.
The ’05
vintage has always troubled me. In all of David’s Champagnes, there have been
an element of rotten potatoes, which is not a coincident, as a lot of producers
have been dealing with rot in the ’05 vintage. Yet I have to say this is the
finest version of ’05 “L’Apôtre”
I have ever tasted. No rotten notes, yet
a fraction herbal character with fennel and coffee beans. The taste is also
good, despite a vintage like ’06 have far more bite. Overall a nice surprise.
2004
“L’Apôtre”
Every time
you talk with someone about the ’04 “L’Apôtre”, you always talk about whether
it was closed or not? The ’04 shined like a diamond when it was released, with
the most insane fresh laser precision and soil intensity. But shortly after it
closed down – or did it? I have tasted it many times before and I have to say
it feels like it’s constantly bouncing between opened or closed. If conclude
anything I would say it’s more closed than open right now. This was also the
case at this vertical – but more pronounced on the nose, where it reveals an
intense, but somewhat angular character. The taste is however divine- creamy
and clinic purity with out of this world focus. It will hold many years – but be
patient.
2003
“L’Apôtre”
I have
always thought that David has managed to balance this freaky vintage. For sure
the vintage will never be elegant and when you have just had a vintage like the
’04, which is sleek elegance, then the ’03 feels a little vulgar in comparison.
But wine is also about finding the right occasion and this exotic, deep nutty
and caramel breed is more about letting go and being seduced. I actually liked
it and still think David has made a fantastic result.
(David - image from Terres et vins de Champagne 2013)
2002
“L’Apôtre”
Basically
the ’02 have everything you look for in a great bottle of wine. Every component
is harmonic and it stands out as a perfect Champagne with 110% balance. What
you might find interesting (but not new to me) is that “L’Apôtre” will actually
become rather classic “Champagne” with age, where the autolysis notes start to
shape and all those secondary notes comes forward. The difference is however a
far cleaner, crisp and real wine without any fuss or make-up. The 2002 are
still young and will probably last 20-25 years more. Be happy if you own it.
2001
“L’Apôtre”
Very
difficult vintage and David had to capitalize in ’01, which he is far from his
philosophy.
Despite
there is only one year between the ’02 and ’01, the latter feels 10 -15 years
older in the glass. Pretty developed with a lot of nutty autolysis notes and
again it feels like very classic aged Champagne. If I have had this alone I
would have enjoyed it, but when you know how much soil bite “L’Apôtre” are
capable of producing, you can’t help think of a rather amputated specimen.
2000
“L’Apôtre”
The two
available bottles at the tasting was apparently very different. I think I got
the “wrong” version as mine was rather blurry in the glass and the mousses were
almost absent. I have however tasted the ’00 before, which I remember as
seductive, buttery, exotic, pineapple creamy and like aged white Burgundy. But
this one was impossible to judge as was pretty strange.
1999
“L’Apôtre”
The ’99 are
really nice glass of Champagne. Again “classic” and despite it has the same
oxidized character like the ’01 is has much more to offer. There is better
intensity and the aged flavours have lots of nerve. The acidity is it’s only
problem, so I would guess it has its peak now and +5-7 years from now.
(The first “L’Apôtre” - the 1999 and the old label)
So we continued at restaurant Noma, where I sat just beside David and had a dinner I will never forget. No camera, pen or paper – just pleasure, life, wine, food and good friends.
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