A tasting with mixed emotions

(Our host, Bent)

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On Saturday the 3^rd of September my good friend Bent hosted another tasting at our favourite wine tasting joint – the always-striking good Søllerød Kro. You might begin to wonder if Søllerød Kro is the only restaurant we have here in Denmark. Luckily no – but it just happens it’s so convenient to have tastings there, as the restaurant can always adapt to whatever theme we have lined up and we always have our own private lounge.

But as you have seen at least 6-7 tasting reports from Søllerød Kro on this blog, I chose to rest the camera a bit and just shot some simple label images at the end of the tasting.

You are about to see quite critical tasting notes, which might make you think if I have lost it. I have given this a lot of thought - on how to present my negative reflections and it has to be the raw version, otherwise it makes very little sense to share different angels of a palate – as I believe there is not an official right or wrong. So please chime in, if you think my conclusions are the most ridiculous you have ever read.

But lets get right down to the action, as the start was excellent…all wines served blind.

Intro:

NV Tarlant “Discobitch”

Lovely as always. A Champagne which brings forward a classic style of citrus and flowery components with underneath brushings of spice box and autolysis formation. If being overly critical you could say you end up chewing too much on these darker phrasings notes on the last meters – but yet the Champagne delivers an incredible mouth coating and juicy style. I loved it.

Heat 1

2006 Lilbert “Blanc de Blancs”

Lilbert is not entirely new to me. I have tested their basic Champagne over the summer and it’s Champagne, which requires some cellaring. This vintage version is unbelievable tight and very to judge. It only gives away some chalky and flowery impression. On the palate it feels rather hollow on the mid-palate and leaves very small data to analyze from. We shall see again in 5-7 years.

2002 Philip Gonet “Belemnita”

This fairly limited release from Philip Gonet is a beautiful specimen. Really expressive on the nose it instantly took the spotlight in this flight. Notes were; Banana, hay, overripe peaches and milk. Taste is powerful, juicy, lush and extremely giving. Brilliant stuff and a rather open 2002 – even though it will easy last another 10 years.

(The one and only Discobitch from Tarlant)

2006 Chartogne-Taillet “Les Barres”

A slow starter – but also a start with some concerns of way too high-pitched notes of lilies flowers. The Champagne was not in full balance – but after 15 minutes it found both balance and enormous amount of energy. From the glass rose bio driven notes of baby banana, citrus, blackberries and really sophisticated spice section. Knowing its Pinot Meunier it’s really one of the most refined versions I know of this grape. Fantastic.

Ps. I have to say I prefer my Champagne in bigger glasses than those provided here – the classic Spiegelau Authenthis….not a bad glass, but it has it’s limits.

Heat 2

It felt like I was the only dull person in this white-Burgundy party/ flight. I don’t really get the greatness of white Burgundy – especially when I compare it against Champagne…which I know is kind of stupid…so be aware of this….the table loved this flight.

1999 Domaine Leflaive “Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon”

Needed some air to get rid of some weird spicy notes, which some first thought was sulphur. Otherwise it’s “classic” with white flowers and apples and a rather stony expression. Taste has solid level of clarity and chalkiness, but it just falls into a category of thousands of other wines and therefore looses a lot of character I think.

(2006 Les Barres - image from Terre et vins 2011)

2002 Etienne Sauzet “Batard Montrachet”

It was discussed whether this bottle was off or not. Problem was a rather evolved style – compare to it flight revivals. Anyway – it started okay’ish if you were looking for seduction and the lowest cleavage of the flight. Sexy stuff, with funky deep scented vanilla flavours, melted butter, evening perfume and a very oily style of wine. The taste was quite different – actually posses some tallness from high minerality and a poised acidity. However with warmth – the party was definitely over and the wine completely collapses and obtained more and more creasy notes of sweet bubblegum, which also turned against the taste. Not nice.

2002 Domaine Leflaive “Batard Montrachet”

As with “Clavoillon” – it needed some time to get rid of some weird notes. When having unfolded – which took some time IMHO…and especially warming up in the glass was a big contributor – it possessed notes of apples, lime and popcorn. There was also a very fine and subtle toned spice section – such as smoke and resin, which all together was giving the wine more complexity. However – and despite easily being the best wine of this flight, there is not much emotional stuff going on inside me…the wine is too technical correct IMHO…but I guess that’s my white Burgundy dilemma.

(2002 Domaine Leflaive “Batard Montrachet”)

Heat 3

Time for red wines

2002 Louis Jadot “Bonnes Mares”

Strange wine, which at no point delivered some kind of clarity. The fruit is dusty, muddy, herbal and with some dark bitter chocolate components lurking in the background. Taste can’t save it – same stuff going on here and it’s simply lacking fresh fruit.

2002 “Clos du Tart”

Ahhh…Clos du tart brings me good memories and I have even had the 2002 before. I don’t know what has happened??.… because this was a huge disappointment. There are notes of vitamin pills, gauze bandages – which sometimes are okay, if the wine has the edge to fit it in. Sadly that’s not the case here – as wine takes dark cherries onboard – almost blackcurrant or blackberries – revealing a wine, which plays a darker and heavier style of Pinot Noir, which I am not fond of. The taste is for sure young and shouldn’t be discarded yet – but again I found very little purity and drinking pleasure in this wine. A real shame.

(Caviar dish - loved it)

2001 Meo Camuzet “Vosne-Romanée Les Brulees”

When red Burgundy forms the shape of refined red tones I tend to smile. This is such a wine and luckily it’s also filled with solid level of life, which works together with notes of raspberry, herbs and overall light weighted sweet fruit sensations. The taste is beautiful defined – holding on to all the red components and expressing tight classic red Burgundy with delicious appeal to mind and palate. The last perfumes on the palate exude of beautiful sweet fruits and lovely mild spices. Stunning wine.

2000 DRC “Richebourg”

A seductive wine, which provided good flight competition to “Les Brulees” from Meo Camuzet. This wine goes a step further in deeper scented red fruits, which forms into overripe cherries, spices, cinnamon and tealeaves. Yet - being a wine, which also delivers juicy well drinking appeal - it doesn’t hold the same amount of tallness as “Meo”. You could say - if to push the analytic judgment - it’s a fraction too polished. Overall – I can’t see it lasting another 10 years and holding on to its current drinking pleasure. Still a beautiful wine, as it drinks so well right now.

Bonus wine donated by Ib

2009 Eduard Bryczek Morey St. Denis “Cuvée du Pape Jean-Paul II”

When this wine entered I really liked it, but as the temperature rises it took onboard some concerning elements. We have red fruit – which I will always applaud. In addition the fruit is juicy and sweet and even takes on an edge from a note of vitamin pills, which I know doesn’t sound appalling, but it worked rather okay. Yet – when it’s raised in temperature, the sweet notes forms the shape of simple vanilla flavours and it makes loose allure. Tasting it makes it even more troublesome as there are a lot of burned elements on the finish line. It’s a very young wine, which might gain more balance, but I have to be concerned of the grilled elements it showed on the last meters.

(2001 Meo Camuzet “Vosne-Romanée Les Brulees”)

Heat 4

1999 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie “Cuvée Belle Helene”

First thing I wrote on my paper was: “Very old-school type of wine”. What does this mean? Well a lot of things – but mainly returning to wine which plays more with power than elegance, which is always a loosing game for my palate. This wine boosted tons of oak with very little direction. The oak shields all traceable evidence of clarity and fresh fruit. When a wine doesn’t deliver some kind of drinking pleasure – no matter it’s DNA profile - I can seldom applaud it. Several tasters around the table filled the spittoon with more than half filled glasses of this 100 point wine – so this time I wasn’t alone on being pretty disappointed.

(2000 DRC “Richebourg”)

2001 Guigal, Cote Rotie “La Mouline ”

Again an explosive oak bomb, which gets some of its audience seduced with lots of sweet biscuits flavours, lacquer, white pepper and a combination of black/rasp-berries. The latter is something I like, but in this wrapping it’s not elegant, as the taste doesn’t posses that element of nerve, which could take this rather heavy oak driven wine from a quite boring stage. Not my kind of wine.

1999 Negly “Clos du Truffiers” from magnum…we are in Languedoc Roussillon

Yet another indifferent wine – which shapes like a million others – possessing no awareness…just a “style”, which storyboard is copy/paste, special effects and with no direction or thought. It’s an animalistic breed, which forms notes of pork, blackberries with approaches you with so much opulence that any kind of holding hand, dancing maybe and just getting to know each other is a dead end. Tasted it only once….and it’s just a totally indifferent wine.

2001 Guigal, Cote Rotie “La Landonne”

Nose and taste were quite different. The nose is polished again with sweet oak driven fruit and associations of animal fur. Taste is filled with tannins and tar, which takes purity, deliciousness and drinking pleasure significantly down. Overall a boring wine.

(Brilliant turbot dish)

Another Bonus wine donated by Ib entered….

2007 DRC “Richebourg”

I would have liked to spend some more time with this wine as it had a really interesting spice section, which constantly provided some new angels. My wingman nailed it to be DRC as he could detect the note of tea. To some degree I agree on that note, without being able to tell you what kind of tea it is. I also found notes of vitamin pills. It’s interesting that I liked this wine so much, as it doesn’t flirt with that red Burgundy fruit – but more meaty driven with black cherry stones and some tar elements. I think the reason is a splendid slim feel on the palate, were it lift itself on the drinking pleasure scale. Had is been alcoholic and dense – it would have been another matter. Very intellectual wine – which I would love to taste again in 10 years time.

The next flight was a disaster…

Flight 5

1997 Argiano, “Solengo IGT” (from Magnum)

A very herbal driven start – which can be a thrilling theme, as it’s such an attribute if it can posses fresh; thyme, rosemary or some other herb from the Tuscan kitchen. However here – those herbal notes are infused in a package, which also holds tight black fruits, marzipan and tons of tar, which at the end of the day makes both the overall wine and herbs smell dirty and old. Taste is horrible – dull, heavy and impure. One of the worst Italian IGT wines I have ever tasted.

1997 Castello di Rampolla, “Vigna d’Alceo”

To some extend takes on some of the same dilemmas as “Solengo”, but here the fruit is even more violent with a heavy load of black tar fruit and possessing no purity nor common appeal. With air and warmth in the glass, it goes even further into horror-land with the fruit starting to attract prunes and liqueur, becoming even more heavy and undrinkable. Shocking bad wine.

1997 Antinori “Solaia”

You know what – this wine might have been a fraction better than its flight rivals. But it’s the same theme. A Wine filled with black fruits, tar and overripe cooked fruit. There are no terroir – no awareness – no soul. Jesus Christ!!!

Shocking bad flight…needed some fresh air and a glass of water before the next flight….

(Disappointing Guigal)

Heat 6

2000 D’Abreu “Thorevilos”, Napa Valley, US

Another heavy loaded wine with a lot of burned flavours. Again – the level of oak is like a constant unpleasant tone in my head, only playing the same note over and over again. There are some distant appealing notes of pine needles, which blend together with the note of menthol. Unfortunately they are very raw and not appealing, as the wine is too alcoholic and not well drinking. A very boring wine.

2002 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

Okay…the nose is actually better here. Possessing some sort of other theme than just opulent fruit. There is a note of liver pâté, which I am not fond of – but!! It’s blended with a higher pitching note of mint, which I kind of like. It brings out some nerve, but still you have to be aware of that it’s actually a rather raw and young wine. Taste….ahhhrrrr…could be better. I missed clarity, but still you have the feeling that it’s actually a wine holding onto something, which could improve with cellaring. Fair wine.

(2007 Richebourg from DRC)

2002 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, US

So another 100 point wine , which these days tend to be heads up for something undrinkable. But hey – the nose is fairly all right. For sure there are some rather monotone blackcurrant notes, which also forms to vanilla flavours from the oak – but it’s a underneath sweet appeal, which makes it shine a bit more gentle in the glass. However!! – The taste is dreadful – violent, dense alcoholic monster. Despite a fair nose – it’s not a good wine and I don’t see any potential for it.

2001 Bond Melbury, Napa Valley, US

Here we go again. A wine set to impress with making as much noise as possible. Okay it’s fun to watch a movie with good special effects, but please let there at least be a good story or plot. This wine has intense raw level of blackcurrant and peppermint. The latter works together with menthol, which has it roots bound in the taste, which is an alcoholic breed, possessing zip deliciousness and drinking pleasure. Get a life.

(2001 Bond - beautiful label - sadly the wine is not good)

I think restaurant manager Jan Restorff noticed some of us suffered now and in came 9 glasses….

2009 Comte Liger-Belair “Clos du Château”

I haven't written any notes on this wine. But I remember it as a fresh breeze compared to 4 dense, heavy and dull wines in heat 6. I have tasted this wine is 2007 & 2008 vintage and completely adored it. The ’09 is also lovely, but it’s marked by its youth and slight brushes of warmth in both taste and warmth. Otherwise it’s the always-adorable polished style of Liger-Belair, which is so deadly seductive.

Dessert….Champagne…ahhhhh

2000 Gaston Chiquet “Special Club”

Dessert and Champagne…hmmmm…can work if we are in the Sec-section. But here it’s really difficult. Still the Champagne did a fine job, cleaning the taste buds after a bunch of horrifying wines, but also has some underneath not so pure spices, which was a challenge to the btw brilliant dessert serving.

(Seductive wine from Liger-Belair)

So dear readers - it wasn’t exactly a thrill to share this with you – especially giving so much critique to a friend good intention to throw a tasting. But I can tell you, that our host, Bent probably have roughly similar notes to mine (Though I think he liked the white Burgundy flight better than me). Bent told us he was happy to see his strategy of getting rid of the powerful high scoring wine and purchase more and more elegant stuff (Burgundy and Champagne)- was the right way forward. A strategy I can salute, though I am too poor to buy the Grand Cru’s of Burgundy. Luckily there are lots of alternatives out there.

Next up is a tasting of 20 Jura wines….I can promise you it will be more delightful…stay tuned to this frequency.

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It ranges from wines I re-taste again or wines I simply don't have the sufficient time to write about. On my Facebook page I will try to get it all there. It will be a rather simple format with or without an image...maybe from my iPhone.

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/Thomas

Summer hunting for a good Italian wine.

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This summer has also included some Italian wines. It has been so so…no news there. It’s still the struggle with some of these Tuscan IGT things, which I have in my cellar – they are IMHO missing some awareness and seem to be more about (rudely generalizing of course) too much stylish wine making. I tend to compare everything against my Italian Nirvana; Soldera’s Brunello “Case Basse”, which of course is a bit idiotic. At the end of the day – the problem might not lie with these wines, but maybe it’s just me getting more critical and grumpy with age.

Anyway…I had the 2004 Paleo from Le Macchiole, which almost made me fall asleep. Don’t get me wrong; Paleo is indeed a well made wine and the 2004 can very well have a bright future ahead of itself. But at this current stage it falls into a category of thousands of others wines, with polished newborn fruit, tons of new oak and unfortunately a way too tarred finish.

I opened another Le Macchiole wine; the 1999 Scrio, which has never disappointed me. Sadly - I have to say, the wine is beyond its peak and now struggles to show energetic and vibrant fruit. It’s a very dark scented wine, with black fruits, peppers and unfortunately evolving notes of prunes, which to me is proof of a tired wine.

Still continuing, I tried the 2006 “Percarlo” from San Guisto Rentennano. I was again disappointed – a muscular wine, with tons of oak and dark bitter phrasing. Yet Percarlo drinks okay’ish – it’s not alcoholic or anything, it’s just rather monotone. Percarlo cellars well, so of course it could just be a dull phase.

Fourth try was better – the 2004 "Cepparello” from Isole e Olena even though it started pretty lame – with the darker side of the Sangiovese expression (which I don’t like) – black cherries and herbs. But with air the wine lifted itself above average and became extremely gentle and elegant on the finish line. A really well drinking wine.

But I had to fly all the way to Sicily / Etna to find the best Italian summer experience of 2011 –

2007 & 2008 “Vigo” from Fattorie Romeo del Castello.

Blend: Nerello mascalese & Nerello capuccio

Age of Vines: 3 out of the 13 ha. are over 100 years old.

Winemaker: Chiara Vigo

Vineyard: We are 700 meters above sea level. The importer showed me an image of the vineyard and just a few meters next to some of the plots, lava swept away 60ha of land in 1981.

Bonus: The 2007 are the debut release of this wine.

Glass: Zalto Bordeaux

Why is this better than those mentioned above?

For me it has a far better terroir style - meaning a rather intense soil attack and sublime inner coolness.

At opening, the 2007 don’t really stand out. It’s a result of an incredible charming style with round healthy fruit, which of course is all right – wine is also about pleasure. But!! – It just doesn’t interest me in the long run, if there is no edge. However, examining a bit more, the wine opens up and the fruit core reveals more purity with the red cherry / kirsch flavors’ getting more and refined. It’s exactly that red fruit I look for in Italian wines. The taste is almost even better as the wine is really cool tempered; with an intense soil feeling of graphite and possessing a bright acidity. You feel the 14% alcohol, but the wine is in balance.

The 2008 vintage are quit different – yet more sophisticated. The start is incredible with tightly packed red fruit, which goes in the direction red cherries and rose petals. It’s once again a very fresh, slim and cool style. Yet it closes down after 20 minutes and catches bitter notes of vitamin pills, gauze bandage and menthol. From here I rested it one hour in the bottle. Despite still possessing some of the vitamin pills notes – the red fruit was brought back to life and together the formed a sophisticated package, which possess that intense soil graphite feeling with remarkable freshness and firm acidity.

Both wines performed best at a low serving temperature to really bring out that refined style.

2010 Domaine des Vignes du Maynes “Cuvée 910”

Blend: Equal parts of Pinot Noir, Gamay and Chardonnay

Bonus: Biodynamic since 1997 - hardly any sulphur.

Glass: Zalto Burgundy

It’s not easy to find details about this wine, as the producers Internet site has very little information. However if my information’s are correct (provided by the importer) the name; “Cuvée 910” are a reference to the year 910. In the year of 910, Domaine des Vignes du Maynes belonged to the monastery at Cluny, which again was under the management of the Benedictine Order. In that same year the Duke of Aquitaine gave away the monastery to Abbed Bernon, who laid the foundation for the powerful and influential Cluny monastery. The monks living at Vignes du Mayne, harvested grapes and musts, which later were transported, to the monastery, where the wines were brought up.

The blend is of course closely chosen to show how they produced wine back at those days. It’s actually interesting to know how the wine is put together, as I had an idea (which is not necessarily correct) how the 3 grapes each provided their character. The presence of Chardonnay…(if again my analysis are correct)…actually puzzled me. It might have been designed to provided some tall and freshness – plus a vivid acidity, but actually I found something was diluting the wine and pinpointed the Chardonnay to be the troublemaker. However I was to learn that the wine was actually just in need of some air (just under one hour should open it up).

If to continuing the game of letting each grape speaking their voice - I found the Pinot provided sublime pure cherries, red currant and the Gamay playing along that violin with wild berries, moist forest and dried fruit. All together it’s an extremely subtle, pure and refined wine, which almost – when the Chardonnay tone has unfolded - goes into a floating stage. As I decanted it half way trough my tasting experience, the last drops was clearly the best and you almost begged for more.

Overall a very subtle, yet highly sophisticated red wine with immensely high and refreshing drinking pleasure.

2008 Pierre Overnoy ”Arbois Pupillin”

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Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Vin Nature – zero sulphur

Pierre Overnoy is by many considered to be the Godfather of natural wine.

Glass: Zalto Burgundy

First of all – I hope you have all had a great summer. Yesterday was officially the last bathing day here in Denmark, so I thought why not get cracking and write about some of the many wines I have tasted during the summer of 2011.

While the debate about natural wines is on fire on various wine boards / blogs, I thought it would be a good idea to have one of these “very dangerous wines”, as the heated debate seems to be more about ideology, personal offending, than what’s actually inside the bottles.

As you might have noticed, I drink a lot of natural wines and I of course have an opinion about them. However the subject is filled with a lot of grey areas, but I hope to post my thoughts in September.

Now the wine; which was one of the most exhilarating wines I had over the summer.

Clarifying and complex nose of honey, butter, and wild yeast notes are some of the first thoughts that came to my mind. I also found what I would describe as “milk skin”. This has two meanings; 1) It’s covers the wine with a subtle sensation, but it’s also; 2) A texture issue, as the wine takes on an elastic feeling. The latter transports itself all the way to the finish line, as its stretches the wine beautifully on the palate without using much “muscle” to do so. There are both complexity and gracefulness about this smooth and elastic touch, as the wine holds so much clarity and energy and thankfully never takes the shape of an oily wine, which sometimes can loose tallness in the glass. On the palate, the wine provides some of the same aspects from the nose, but also catches notes of fresh melon.

Despite my reference sheet in Jura are still very limited, I have say, that this is the best white Jura I have tasted so far.

Use of images

(Orrefors "difference crisp" glass)

Unfortunately I have learned, that some of my images are being used in commercial sale of wine.

The images on this site have copyright status, but if you wish to use them, please contact me @ togathomas@gmail.com

Thank you.

Best from,

Thomas

The tasting

All images are clickable and will open a larger format.

(Notebook are ready - hit me)

Saturday the 11th of June I had the pleasure to thrown my wine club a decent tasting. We had the whole day @ Søllerød Kro, which is almost like coming home for most of my guests and me. It’s with pleasure, I repeat myself when I say how well Søllerød Kro once again performed and how restaurant manager Jan Restorff, like no other, can be the perfect host.

The tasting was divvied in two simple sessions. First a lunch serving with 21 bottles of Champagne…just to clean the taste buds ;-). The first session was also an attempt to conduct a concentrated blind tasting, which is not always easy with these guys, as they just want to relax and have fun. The blind guessing was there to eliminate people’s prejudices about old vs new and the increasing debate about dosage or the lack of it. I think it worked well and it was fun to see how the level of dosage was a subject in flight 1 & 2 and then no one really paid attention to it.

In the second session for the dinner, I wanted us to relax, so after the lunch serving and a 45-minute stroll in the beautiful surroundings, I revealed the line-up for the dinner.

It turned out my guest thought we were short on bottles and went treasury hunting in Søllerød Kro’s cellar – not that we were exactly thirsty – but still I didn’t stop them ;-).

Here is the line-up and a short description of the wines:

(Jan Restorff)

Intro – outside in the beautiful weather:

2004 Bérèche “Instant Le Cran” (55% CH, 35% PN, 10% PM – Dosage 4 g/l)

It didn’t performed like last time I had it, where it was singing. As a starter you notice how oak and dosage collide a bit. It’s taking its friskiness and focus a notch down and I would have liked some food. My mistake.

Heat 1

Nv (Solera) Laherte “Les Clos” (*7 grapes - 0 g/l dosage)

* 18% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier, 8% arbanne, 15% petit meslier,17% Pinot Blanc and 10% fromenteau

I chose Les Clos to match the freshness and lime appeal of the first dish. Sadly this bottle of Les Clos was herbal (mostly black tea) and so shy. First time I experience this with Les Clos.

2007 Demarne-Frison (50 CH, 50% PN - 0 g/l dosage)

It shined and did what I hoped it would do. Sensorial vivid sweetness of yellow fruits and a vibrant clean-cut mineral finished. I loved it – so did the table.

(Classic Søllerød dish)

Heat 2

2008 Cédric Bouchard ”Les Ursules” (100% Pinot Noir - 0 g/l dosage)

Magical bottle of Champagne, with currant perfumes and notes of black cherries- all wrapped up in a sleek corset of elegance and raciness. Probably the best Les Ursules I have tasted so far.

2006 Cédric Bouchard ”Les Ursules” (100% Pinot Noir - 0 g/l dosage)

Sadly corked. I replaced it with

2000 Tarlant “Vigne d’Antan” (100% Chardonnay – 2 g/l dosage)

Despite being the blind passenger here and clearly showing it’s the only Champagne in this flight made from oak….and of course from a quite different terroir - it revealed a remarkable rich and creamy character. Yet once again it’s also a Champagne with a racy soil footprint of sandy spiciness. I can think of very few of the released 2000’s, which I like more than this.

2005 Cédric Bouchard ”La Bolorée” (100% Pinot Blanc - 0 g/l dosage)

Tough choice….that is to choose between 2008 Les Ursules or this Champagne as the winner of this flight. I think “Les Ursules received the most applauds – however for me there is something incredible and insane about this La Bolorée, which just makes me adore it even more. The 2005 La Bolorée is really ahead of its aging-curve, compared with the 2006 vintage, showing churned buttery components topped with ginger and exotic fruits. Stunning Champagne.

(Anders - or "Svenne or "Borgmesteren")

Heat 3

2004 David Léclapart ”L’Artiste” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

2004 Agrapart ”Vénus” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

I have tasted these Champagnes a few times already this year – you can find detailed notes here and here.

However let’s just compare them. Both remarkable pure Champagnes with bright chalky appeal and also two Champagnes with a floating style. Yet, Artiste is rawer and it shows clear signs of it’s birth in half in oak, half in enameled steel, where “Vénus” is only made in oak. Vénus presents itself creamier, toasted and friendlier - yet I have to admire Artiste for it’s bright flavours of mint and frozen iron, which sets off an outrageous energy. I couldn’t pick a winner here – loved them both.

Heat 4

2003 David Léclapart ”L’Apôtre” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

Flawed.

2004 Cédric Bouchard ”La Haute-Lamblée” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

Cédric Bouchard had already dazzled the table and I had a good feeling this one wouldn’t disappoint either. It’s miraculous Champagne and almost against the odds with 2 year old vines supplying this adorable, fragile Champagne, which is filled with, candied citrus, flowers, oregano and morello cherries (just before they are ripe). The acidity is of clarifying Chablis character with immensely tallness and elegancy. Magnificent Champagne.

2004 George Laval ”Les Chênes” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

Have just tasted it and have very little to add. Note is in this post – it’s magic Champagne with an orgy of passion fruits served into a sleek corsage.

(Spiegelau Adina glasses)

Heat 5

2006 Béreche Instant Rosé (55% CH, 40% PN, 5% PM - 0 g/l dosage)

2004 Cédric Bochard ”Le Creux d’Enfer Rosé” (100% Pinot Noir - 0 g/l dosage)

2008 Prevost Fac- Similie Rosé (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

I chose to serve Béreche Instant Rosé a few minutes before I served the next two, as I feared it’s fragile style would die in comparison. But I made a mistake here, as I hadn’t studied hard enough, as I was under the belief the next two rosé Champagne both was saignée. But no – Prévost Fac-Similie is in fact an assemblage.

Anyway it’s 3 stunning rosé Champagne, but still very different. Bérèche are indeed fragile with its salty red berry fruits. I can never get tired of this Champagne, but as I have tasted it 6-7 times now in it’s youth I would like to see what layers it will put on with cellaring.

“Le Creux d’Enfer” is better when you have it alone (see that note here). Here it stands out too much as it’s sooo bone dry and particular. It didn’t really unfold as I have hoped it would do and this is the second time I have it in a big line-up where it didn’t deliver as it did when I had it home alone.

Prèvost has made a stunning rosé in 2008. Just the colour is breathtaking – a mixture of Strawberry red and salmon. It’s what I would call a really sensual rosé with a round and pleasing appeal, where the oak is delivering this charming look. However don’t be fooled, as it has yet another dimension where it’s able to lift itself to a fragile and subtle stage with terrific elegancy.

Heat 6

2008 Jerome Prevost (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

2006 Jerome Prevost (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

2006 Chartogne-Taillet ”Les Barres” (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

Many of my guests had never imagined Pinot Meunier could reach such kind of quality, which was right in front of us.

The 2008 Prévost is one hell of a devilish Champagne, which still is in its youth, but the level of fruit in this 2008 is really impressive and then these sophisticated spices, which even takes on the aroma of orange peel. Taste is creamy concentrated and with sleek elegance

The 2006 are more about honey and slightly oxidation patterns coming forward with the oak playing the drums in the background. In comparison the 2008 is almost of scary quality – but the 2006 is also divine Champagne.

Then comes Les Barres and I take on a new dimension of Pinot Meunier. You have again sophisticated spices, but also blackberries combined with a bright flowery and citrus sparkle. It takes Les Barres higher in energy and freshness. Unbelievable good Champagne. WOW!!!

Bonus Champagne donated by Mads.

A very raw Champagne, which I always associate with David Léclapart – and in most cases L’Artiste, which proved to be correct (yes…I actually guessed something right). Vintage…well here we guessed a bit wrong – it turned out to the 1999, which was the debut release from David. It’s demanding Champagne, with this raw style of straw and freezing iron, which gives some darker fruits phrasings. Still I am familiar with this kind of Champagne and I really loved it.

(Claus Lyster)

Heat 7

1996 Selosse (100% Chardonnay – 0 g/l dosage)

A Champagne I have always put on a pedestal as being one of the most impressive I have tasted and perhaps the best 1996 there is. It’s the first time we saw notes classic Champagne in terms of autolysis aromas. I think it’s holding back a lot on the nose, where it doesn’t unfold to the same intensity it had in it’s youth. It’s still impressive stuff with a very rich and lush taste which goes in the direction of vanilla flavours from the oak, honey and quince.

1996 Salon (100% Chardonnay - ? dosage think 5-6 g/l)

I have tasted this Champagne twice and have always loved it – but it’s been a while since we spooned. To cut it short, it’s really disappointing. It flirts with classic lime / flower – which reminds me of a Danish ice cream called “Champagnebrus”. Then comes the note of sulphur, which makes the journey very hard for me to continue. It goes like it always does with sulphur – the Champagne or wine losses energy and becomes flabby and dull.

I know that Salons track record is deadly impressive and one shouldn’t rule out long shy phases – but here and know it falls completely out of focus in terms of what had been served so far.

(So good food)

Heat 8

1988 Selosse (100% Chardonnay)

I have saved this Champagne for a special occasion and thought it was time to serve it. Don’t get me wrong guys, I would actually have loved to spend some more time with it (and more than 1-2 glasses), as it seems like it had several layers it didn’t have the time to release. At first nosedive I thought the oak was pretty dominant, but then it puts on a new dimension of fresh floral awakening and apple scents. The taste is overwhelming intense with a pretty high acidity. Really nice.

1988 Salon (100% Chardonnay)

I always loved the ’88 Salon. I think it was a panel splitter. Sadly I couldn’t see its beauty as the mid-core reveals over the hill fruit. Maybe not a representative bottle – it shouldn’t show itself this tired.

P A U S E

(Claus Holst)

Dinner

Heat 9

1996 Bollinger GA (magnum)

Bollinger seldom disappoints and in magnum it should have been a home run. But NO!!!...My God, what a boring bottle. First time my sweet spot is challenge and I perceived it as too high dosed as it makes the Champagne loose tallness. I even noticed the note of sulphur, but it was only small – but still not adding anything positive. The notes where classic Champagne with walnuts, dark bread and caramel. Overall –and Pardon my French – but what a crap bottle.

Heat 10

1996 Krug Vintage

So now it can’t go wrong – Krug is the God of big House Champagne. Nope – no luck here either, but it’s still better than Bollinger and Salon. You sense Krug’s immensely concentration, but unfortunately it’s covered with darker fruits patterns and spices, which lacks definition, purity and overall makes it heavy. Last time I taste this Champagne was in May-2010 and it was singing – so I could speculate if we were dealing with a closed bottle. Maybe – maybe not, it wasn’t impressive.

1996 Pol Roger Winston Churchill

So far the dinner hadn’t been that successful and sadly Winston couldn’t get the party started. It’s a very “dark” Champagne. Had I been able to include dark and mysterious it would have been great, but we have again sulphur and then it gets tricky for me. Notes was something like walnuts in cheese combo, not exactly something which is know to kick off freshness and energy. The taste is very soft and polished – pleasing for some maybe, but to me rather dull.

Let’s get some red wine.

Heat 11

(All Case Basse was just opened when we arrived with no decanting)

2004 Soldera, Brunello ”Case Basse Riserva”

1999 Soldera, Brunello ”Case Basse Riserva”

1983 Soldera, Brunello ”Case Basse Riserva”

Case Basse is the best Italian wine there is - end of case…and don’t sue me, you won’t win ;-).

The 2004 vintage is a miraculous offering and easy the best young Brunello I have ever tasted. Think of what you want in an Italian wine (red fruits has to me among your dreams) and you will have it here. It has tons of fresh red fruit embalmed in the finest Tuscan herbs with new saddle leather and smoky tobacco. The taste has the exceptional curl with a rather volatile acidity but it’s adding to the friskiness of the wine. WOW!!!!...and Thank you Holst for your donation.

The worst thing about the 1999 was to be in this line-up. It’s a solid good wine, but it has lost the fresh red fruit and deals with dryer elements, which turns the wine more smoky and reserved. The taste is seriously concentrated with this high-pitched acidity.

So again we meet my darling. This is the fourth time I have tasted the 1983 Riserva and it’s my last bottle. It’s sooooo good my friends. With absolutely no aging signs whatsoever. It’s actually closer to the 2004 than the 1999 as the red fruits are also here – not young and smooth though, but saltier, more subtle, dryer and with so much finesse. The taste is every Italian wine lowers hottest dream with so much warmth soul and class. Will I ever taste it again?

(Dan)

(Lobster...fantastic dish)

(Mads)

Heat 12

2001 Voerzio Barolo ”Cerequio”

Not bad, but sadly too soft a style of Barolo for me. The oak turns it too a bit too charming, warm and polished.

2001 Sandrone Barolo ”Cannubi Boschis”

Corked

Replaced with a bottle donated by my good friend Anders;

2001 Altare Barolo “Brunate”

Very stylish stuff, despite absolutely no decanting time. It had a teasing note of plum, which sometimes tricks me to go off toward too high alcohol, but that wasn’t the case here and with air it gets companionship of the most adorable note of roses. Taste is very refined and curls beautifully. Very good.

2001 Aldo Conterno Barolo ”Granbussia”

Granbussia also deals with plums, but they are pretty sensual driven and sweet and it’s really hard not to be swept away with its style. I started to write on my paper if in fact were too polish, but sometimes you just have to let go and enjoy it for it’s great drinking pleasure.

Overall I think the Barolo flight here worked fair – I think Case Basse had made it’s impression and it was like we had taken a few gears down.

(Max)

(Bent P. - we are having fun)

Heat 13

1996 Jacquesson ”Vauzelle Terme Aÿ” (100% Pinot Noir)

It’s getting a bit hard to focus this late. I remember this as a pretty intense thing. My notes says, dark Pinot, honey, quince and a bit aggressive on the oak. But it’s also a Champagne which is in pretty good balance despite it’s really intense. Solid Champagne with good potential.

NV Egly-Ouriet ” Blancs de Noirs Vieilles Vignes” (100% Pinot Noir)

Very soft, oily and missing energy….but okay it’s late.

Bonus red wines: Donated by Max, Dan and Mads...are you nuts!!!!,but thanks

2008 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belail “Aux Reignots”, Burgundy, France

All I have tasted from this producer has made me smile. This wine might be a bit polished, but who really cares when it’s drinking this well. We are dealing with incredible sexy Pinot Noir – but fruit wise leaning towards blackberries, soft plum and this elastic smooth appeal both in nose and mouth. It curls so sexy and has so much allure. I wish I could afford this stuff….DAMN!!!

2006, Georges Roumier Chambolle-Musigny “les Amoureuses”, Burgundy, France

Classic Burgundy with red cherry fruit, yet also rather spice driven. I would liked to have spent some more time with it in order to get the red fruit more in front of the spices….if possible? Still a lovely and impressive wine.

2006 Jean Foillard “Pi 3.149”, Beaujolais, France

A real teaser this late. “Trick” worked – the table (me included) went for Burgundy with very delicate mixture of kirsch and plums. A wine which drinks exceptional well with so delicate and fresh fruit appeal.

("Guldbamsen")

Some thoughts…mostly the Champagnes

The day after such a tasting you fell rather miserable. When my brain starts to work again, I digest through all those many wines. Often I get a text or one of the guys calls and you take the journey once again. Geeky – but it’s a part of sharing wines with likewise geeks and I love it. Then another friend calls…and so on….the wife is rarely impressed.

Anyway.... most times I often get the question, which one did you like the best? I can’t answer, because I don’t see it like that. Maybe “La Haute-Lamblée”, “Les Barres”, “Les Chênes” was the best ones (that was some of peoples’ favourites), but to take out "Venus", "L’Artiste", "Selosse vintage", "Prévost" or even"Demarne-Frison" or "Bérèche Rosé"…help!!!...etc, seems almost ridiculous and like amputating a patient, which is not sick. I couldn’t live without these wines in my cellar and they all have something to offer.

The big house Champagnes (Oh no...that debate again) really disappointed me – or was it just a confirmation of what I already knew? First of all – I have always some sort of skepticism of concluding from one glass tastings – even more when it comes to Champagne. Secondly, the big houses where also pretty much outnumbered by the growers in this line-up. Thirdly; the vintages vs small and big were too far off to really call it a battle and it wasn’t what I wanted for this tasting. Fourthly – some of these Champagnes have impressive track records and are able to cellar for a long time - so long shy phases can't be ruled out.

However (there is always a however….)

Not once were the poise, purity and nerve in favour of Bollinger, Pol Roger, Salon or Krug.

One of my guest; Bent – who were rather sceptical vs some of these small growers two years back said: “The big houses more or less taste the same – the have the taste of “Champagne”. The growers are very individual with strong personalities". I agree completely and I have over and over mentioned how important diversity is to me – without it, it becomes one tone, one substance and then I am out.

I will of course respond to the comments there will be after this post – but this is the last post before the summer break. I will be back late August or early September. There is a big tasting on the 3^rd of September ,which I think will be mostly red Burgundy – so that might be the first report.

Take care, drink well and have a great summer.