1990 Bollinger, Grande Année, Champagne, France

Very nice to taste this Champagne again. It’s exactly how I remember it. Bold in style, with plenty of dark bread notes, sherry and mature apples. Nice complexity and a classic long Bollinger finish. (94)

(Tasted January - 2006)

1988 Salon, Champagne, France

Peanuts, lemon and fine dark bread – just a hint of it and best of all it’s so pure, rich and complex. Taste has everything you could hope for with hints of caramel and nutty tones. Best showing of the 1988 Salon ever (97)

(Tasted 1st of April 2005 - Era Ora)

1988 Pol Roger, Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill, Champagne, France

Decanted) As this Champagne was decanted, there were not many bobbles in my glass rising from the glass. But it didn’t matter one bit as this is a serious nice sibling. Nose is super classic – oxidized notes all over with dark bread and overall dark fruits. But the best thing about it – hiding in these dark fruits is a refreshing note of flowers, and it’s a perfect balance factor and what gives this champagne its character. It will provide many years of superb drinking pleasure. (95)

(Tasted January 2006)

1985 Krug Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France

When I tasted this Champagne I wasn't writing tasting notes. So this is a rewind six years later. But it's easy to write this tasting note as I remember it so well. It started my interest and it's today the best Champagne I have ever tasted. So defined, so elegant, so concentrated and one of the purest and most complex things I have ever tasted. Time stood still. I hope to return someday.

(Tasted Spring 2002)

1988 Krug Vintage, Champagne, France

I have looked so much forward to taste this Champagne. The nose is very elegant. With honney, melon, Vanilla, flowers and other wonderfull stuff. Where similar to a white bourgundy. The taste is nice, but somehow a bit to short at the end. I think it will come..the nose is brilliant (95)

(Tasted Jul 2004)

1985 Salon, Champagne, France

The wine was a bit blurry in the glass as you can see from this picture The first thing that comes into mind even before tasting it was that Dennis might have brought a 1975 Champagne for starters. I guess it would be called an event guess, but clearly not the case here. The nose has elderly signs of sherry/Madera and it’s slightly alcohol disturbing. Plenty of oxidised notes with old apples, and liquorice/anis. The taste is elegant with melted butter on toast and in the finale there is a nice fresh citrus tickle. The mousse is soft and building up nicely in the mouth, but dropping a bit short on the back palate. Defiantly very charming Champagne, but lacking in definition and nerve. (93)

(Tasted November 2005)

1977 Moet Chandon, Silver Jubilee, Champagne, France

WOW! I was so afraid that this baby was dead as I was about to dig in to my first real old champagne experience. It had a beautiful golden dark yellow colour. The nose offering huge complexity with notes of: subtle dark bread, anise, prunes raisins, peach and mango. Also sherry tones, and so delicate with the mouse extremely fine and subtle. The taste is oily in the mouth and the mousse is perfectly intact and during the one hour the bottle was open it was fresh all the time. The finish is very long - simply great stuff. (95)



(Tasted 11 of March 2005. Glass Juhlin)

1976 Dieblot-Vallois, Champagne, France

Despite its age this baby was singing from the first date. Crystal clear in the glass and the nose followed with a great purity. No doubt that there is some age involved with plenty of dark bread and evolving more sherry tones as time passed in the glass. Otherwise the primary note was fresh baked croissants. The taste is long with plenty of vibration and seductive mousse tickle. (94)

Tasted July-2005

1966 Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon, Champagne

Fascinating colour. Shiny golden light with very few bubbles. This 41-year old fellow needed some time to loose the first old notes, as moor water and mushroom notes was notable in the first 2-3 minutes. But then it sang and a seldom seen fruit spectrum unfolded with; apricot, peach, liquorice, piquant sweetness and with time also caramel. As the temperature rose, Grand Marnier was added and over 2-3 hours the wine evolved without loosing focus. The freshness of the wine was really impressive and had good support from the firm and lively acidity. Unfortunately the Champagne lacked mousse, which would have made all of these components shine even more and highlighted the drinking pleasure. Old Champagne is fascinating stuff.

(Tasted May 2007)

NV Vouette et Sorbée ”Fidelle”, Champagne

Fair Champagne with dark glowing fruit and almonds. Too dry on the closing, but good QPR.

(Tasted July 2007)

NV Vouette et Sorbée, Saigneé de Sorbeé, Rosé

Beautiful apricot colour (see picture). Also on the nose a dried apricot scent, but highly strawberry perfumes with forest and shell fish. Mousse is a bit rough which takes a lot of balance and has a touch of iodine which is probably cause by no dosage. Lot’s of potential in this microscopic producer – just a few adjustments here and there.






(Tasted July 2007)

1999 Bollinger La Grande Année, Champagne

A bit more Chardonnay in this ”GA” (37 %) and it shows in a very positive way. You still have the classic Bollinger dark glowing fruit with dark bread, but they are secondary here with lots of lily flowers, lime and lemon. Really crisp baby even though the more bold Bollinger style came forward to time and warmth in the glass it never ever lost its upright posture. The best young GA I have ever tasted.

(Tasted July 2007)

1990 Gosset, Celebris, Champagne, France

Very harmonic and elegant Champagne. I loved the taste – it had so many burgundy similarities

(Tasted Jul-2007)

2000 Philippe Gonet, Brut Blanc de Blanc Special Club Grand Cru, Champagne

Better than my previous bottle – so I better write a TN on it. Lovely aromas of brioche, toast, corn and flowers. The style is a mixture between mineral and flowery attached champagne, but the deeper brioche notes takes weight and complexity. The taste is still youthful – not stretching completely, but everything is in place – just let it come together over the next 3-4 years. Lovely stuff and great value.

(Tasted August 2007)

1998 Billecart-Salmon, Cuveé Elisabeth Rosé

(With sushi)


I adore the style of Billecart-Salmon. Perhaps the most elegant Champagne producer and I am happy every time I stick my nose into a “BS” Champagne. The delicate Rosé has the most awesome light salmon colour with matching subtle bubble flow. I have tasted this single vineyard Champagne in the 1996 and now for the second time in the 1998 vintage. I have to say that the 1996 version is superior with much better mineral kick. But this is not that bad. Superb purity with piquant red fruit, strawberry and maritime waves. Nose has a good complexity tones with adding vanilla and anise. Taste is where the problems start. A bit metallic, which gives the Champagne a rustic look and it doesn’t match up the delicate nose and the elegant BS profile. I know from their NV Rosé that this balance can be obtained with cellaring – so give it 5-6 years.



1998 Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Elizabeth Rosé, Champagne, France

Pure candy – delicate sweetness; strawberries, sprinkled with vanilla flavours. With air some additional spices – cranberries and red fruits. Extremely sexy and seems only 3-4 years away from its drinking window. Not as mineral attached as the ’96, but simply adorable. Served with: Yogurt mousse and dark bread and some sort of powder.

This dish was all about texture and we where told to eat the three ingredients all together. It’s always difficult to have something ice-cold in the mouth, but the dark bread and powder gave the needed balance and warmth. The Champagnes matched it fine.

(Tasted Feb-2007)

1998 Billecart-Salmon, Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon, Champagne, France

must confess that I am sucker for the style of BS. So elegant…the taste struggling with young age – give 5-6 years and it will sing.

(Tasted Jul-2007)

A tasting at my house - Berlinkitchen visit.

On the 8th of September, I held a tasting at my house to welcome Martin Barz from Berlin.

Generosity and the ability to share is for me some of the most important things when it comes to wine passion. Everyone in my tasting group has it, and it’s the same concepts as being equal happy to give and receive a present.

So when Martin said that he was coming to Copenhagen, I immediately contacted my tasting group to through him a tasting that he would never forget. I hope we succeeded, Martin - otherwise – come back anytime.

None of the 9 participants, besides me knew the line-up. But I didn’t wanted it to be a tasting where we concentrated too much on “what is this?”, so when all had arrived I reveal the menu. The food was a six course dinner from http://http://www.era-ora.dk/and I made two small dishes.

As always when, being a host there is a not always the needed time to write detailed tasting notes:

Flight 1 / Welcome by Thomas

1990 Dom Perignon, Champagne, France

(From magnum)

The best Dom Perignon I have ever tasted. Totally different wine on magnum – far better than the regular bottle which I have tasted many times before - last in February this year. The classic Dom Perignon nose with; soda and lime + some burned almonds, wrapped in this insane mineral freshness, which is impossible not to fall in love with. It develops constantly in the glass revealing secondary layers of glowing dark fruits, dried apricot and Grand Marnier. The taste is so balanced and pleasurable to drink with mind-blowing hedonist appeal, combining delicacy and concentration. I have way too little of magnum sized Champagne.

Flight 2 / Champagne by Per and Thomas

1990 Krug, Champagne, France

Was 1990 DP Magnum better than this one? It’s hard to judge, and at best a luxury problem. But they are for sure different. The DP is more charming on the nose, but the Krug is more majestic and intellectual. The concentration of Krug is unbelievable, but still it’s so refined and elegant at the same time. The nose has fragments of, citrus, vanilla, melon, almonds, corn, flowers and slowly some marzipan. But the taste – mama mia…outrageous – it just goes on and on with killer mousse and the well known supernatural Krug feeling.

1990 Salon, Champagne, France Champagne

Heavily corked – what a shame.

Flight 3 / German Riesling by Thomas

2004 Keller, G-Max, Germany

Decanted two hours the day before)

I have heard the stories, seen the label, but never tasted it – before now. What I remember most about this wine, was the reaction from my good friend Claus, who – like me, has a long ongoing love affair with the Riesling grape. We both started with Alsace, but now slowly, we are both discovering the German treasures. His comment was “It doesn’t” get any better than this, when we are talking Riesling”. I couldn’t agree more. The combination of high defined mineralty and the most ravishing oily core is out of this world. You can find this mixture in other wines to, but never have it tried it with so much definition and tallness. The oiliness comes from ravishing peaches which is the thrown in to the mineral machine which keeps the wine razor sharp. The taste is mind-blowing with the minerals flying all over the palate and the oiliness forcing itself downwards on the palate with massive strengths and the oily elegance. For sure the best dry German Riesling I have tasted so far.

2005 Müller-Catoir, Breumel In Den Mauern

(Decanted two hours the day before)

Totally different wine, than G-Max. Fennel and spices, but combined with an element of sweetness which I liked. The taste is very nice - combining the spices with some sweetness and a bold finish. However as the wine gained some warmth in the glass it became a bit controversial across the table. The perfumes transforms it’s spiciness to a bizarre hair shampoo note, which took a lot balance away. Overall an interesting wine, but not a crowd pleaser. I will let my remaining bottles rest for some time and hope for it to become more balanced.

Flight 4 / Burgundy by Claus Holst

1996 Leroy, Corton Renardes

What a beauty. In contrast to some of the other 1996 Burgundy wines I have tasted, this one is in a league of its own. It combines fragile red fruit, but also has the weight from black fruits. This two zone combination works together hand in hand providing an awesome match of elegance and subtle strengths. Also I have to mention that the acidity in this wine is perfect balance from the overweight of nuanced fruit and no sign of the general seen high pitched 1996 Burgundy acidity.

1966 Maison Leroy, Corton

Outrageous nose. Simply unbelievable – A 41 year old wine which shows little sign of age. The

wine is so delicate - so light and refined – each sniff and sip is a pleasure. The notes on the nose are; red fruit, strawberry, matchsticks and mandarin. The taste is equal great, so light and elegant. One of the best Burgundy wines I have ever tasted.

What can possible follow such a wine – well I could think of one.

Flight 5 / Sangiovese by Carlo and Thomas

2001 Brunello, Salvioni

Of course the shift from a 41 year old extremely complex wine to 2001 Salvioni is noticeable. On the top of this – look at its flight rival (1983 Case Basse Riserva). With this in mind - it did extremely well. The fruit has a great deep feeling which is setoff from the combination of red and dark being matched up. This combination gives the wine its lovely sweetness and it’s just in the making and will be far better expressed in 10 years time. The taste still young, but has a good coolness on the tongue.

1983 Case Basse Riserva

This wine gives me Goosebumps. I have been lucky to taste it three times the last year, and once again - I am amazed. Liquorice, herbs, rosemary, shoe pollish and leather infused with red Case Basse fruit. The taste – ahhh man…this is a lesson in what Sangiovese acidity is all about. The strength of this wine is indeed impressive. I have to add; that Case Basse once again proved to be a fantastic food wine – served with lamb, rosemary and swiss chard – I was close to tears.

Itermezzo by Bent Like all good shows or Rock concerts there is a pause. It’s like a mounting climber who seeks to climb Mount Everest. You have to take some stops to achieve your goal. So we all rested for 8 minutes, turned up the music, dimmed the lights and smiled. Funny enough my heart rate didn’t go down during this period – hmmm…strange. Anyway – shortly after we where on the go again with a new set of wines and keeping in mind, that wine is about sense, focus, concentration, big glasses and having fun. Flight 6 / Syrah by Bent 1997 Le Macchiole, Scrio Scrio never fails – not once have I been disappointed with this wine. The trademark of this wine is once again Le Macchioles ability to express Tuscan herbs. Scrio is a warm-blooded wine, with black fruits and liquorice, but it’s also a wine not to be written off on its complexity. On the taste – Scrio shows the more warm blooded Italian side of Syrah, with a brilliant drinking pleasure and black warm fruits ending the show.

1999 Guigal, d'Ampuis

A More animalistic tone compared to 1997 Scrio. But there are also the black fruits, liquorice like Scrio. But it has a great inner coolness with sweet cherry and it overall takes the complexity into a higher gear. The taste is long smooth, precise and ending with a cool wind.

Flight 7 / Piemonte by Claus Lyster

1990 Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Riserva

A very balanced and elegant wine with emerging dried fruits, cherry perfumes and forest. The wine is light at its feet, and swirls elegant around the mouth, but with a fair amount of dry extract on the finish line. Did better with the food as the tagliatelle provided and more subtle feeling of the wine. 1990 Bruno Giacosa, Barberesco Santo Stefano di Nieve Riserva A far more muscular wine compared to the regular Barbaresco Riserva. The camphor notes oozing out of the glass with mandarin peel, spices, cherry perfumes and red devils fruit. The taste is at first a bit peppery with harsh tannin feeling. Then the food was served – wow what a transformation. The wine swirls the tagliatelle perfect around the mouth and the intense mushrooms and parmesan flavours integrates perfectly with the wine, which show how well build and concentrated it is.

Flight 8 / Bordeaux by Max

2003 Angelus, Bordeaux

I had a hard time with this wine, which objectively is a good wine. Everytime I come across the opulent “2003-nose” with, roasted coffee, grilled fruits, bacon and an overripe style - I pass. As it stood in the glass it developed a deeper plum core with overseas vanilla flavours with was not positive for me. The taste is smooth (too smooth for me) and has the deep plum note on the finish line. It did a bit better with the food and the rich red wine sauce.

1982 Cos d’Estournel

A wine which didn’t made such a big impression to me at first sight. It’s a very classic driven Bordeaux wine, with some cheery perfumes and dried herbs. The taste is a bit on the short side, but as I drank more of it – it highlighted its simple and great drinking pleasure and high complexity. Also a brilliant wine with the pigeon.

Flight 9 / Champagne 2 by Thomas

NV. Selosse, Contraste (Disgorged 2nd February 2005)

For me this is the best NV out there. Once again it was brilliant, but not as good as the last bottle I had. Maybe because it was late, but it still has the dark fruits, nuts, vanilla, anise and dark bread crumbs. The taste is bold, but very balanced. It didn’t have the same mental feeling as I experienced with the last bottle – but still great.

Flight 10 / Sauternes by Dennis

2001 Chateau Suduiraut

There is something about the 2001 vintage in Sauternes. I feel the same thing about these wines as I do with the 1996 Vintage in Champagne. They both possess the same insane freshness which controls the botrytis overbite and the fat and oily stile. The Suduiraut has orange peel, caramel and dried apricot. The acidity is perfect – providing the mentioned fresh attack and keeping the wine vibrant. Stunning dessert wine.

For me this was one of the best tasting ever. So glad that everyone enjoyed it. More photos http://www.belmaati.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=274

/Thomas

Welcome

Welcome to my blog.

I started this blog in nov-2007 without any clue how it would evolve.

I can now see that I like it to be a small diary of the experiences I have with wine and what follows in its path. To some degree I like it to be somewhat innocent even though I will have opinions about the wines I taste. If you are looking for expert advises, deep insight knowledge or just guidance to what wines to buy, I will certainly not be that person. I don’t peruse to praise you about my wisdom of wine, so feel free to participate to comment and add your knowledge, so I can also learn.

In general I will rather be him, who will be somewhat naïve and represent the end-user of a bottle of wine and tell you how I felt after I had drunk the bottle. The more wines I taste – the less time I use on analyzing it and dissecting it into aroma-fragments. I might not even write anything down and in fact I sometimes wait a few days and see if my mind can still taste the wine.

Tasting more wines will of course evolve patterns and preferences, which you will most certainly see here, as I recently, have stated to drink a lot of Champagne. But who knows what I will be drinking in 2-10 years time?

My other passion is photography, which I try to express here, even though I seem to have exhausted possible creative ways of shooting a wine label. Photography is another way of expression senses which is a vital part for me when I taste wine.

Anyway – welcome once again and I hope you will stay tuned and I can offer you some sort of enjoyment factor.

Best,

/Thomas