Fascinating colour. Shiny golden light with very few bubbles. This 41-year old fellow needed some time to loose the first old notes, as moor water and mushroom notes was notable in the first 2-3 minutes. But then it sang and a seldom seen fruit spectrum unfolded with; apricot, peach, liquorice, piquant sweetness and with time also caramel. As the temperature rose, Grand Marnier was added and over 2-3 hours the wine evolved without loosing focus. The freshness of the wine was really impressive and had good support from the firm and lively acidity. Unfortunately the Champagne lacked mousse, which would have made all of these components shine even more and highlighted the drinking pleasure. Old Champagne is fascinating stuff.
(Tasted May 2007)