Saturday, January 31, 2009
2005 Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne
(Disgorged 03/09/2008 / Glass; Zalto)
I know – it’s starting to be rather pathetic. Every time I test-drive a new small grower Champagne, I love it. And it’s no secret that almost all of these rising pure (most biodynamic)Champagne stars are imported by http://www.petillant.dk/ in Denmark. I don’t want my blog to be a advertising page, but it’s simply impossible not to mention Mia and Mads Rudolf, when tasting these Champagnes as they are among the most enthusiastic and sympathetic people I have ever met in the wine business. A visit to their shop “Skaal” (Danish for cheers), is a reminder that Champagne is an authentic and magnificent wine and not a luxury good wrapped in a shiny gift box. To quote Terry Theise “Do you really want to be reduced to a mere "consumer" when you can drink Champagne like a whole human being?
Back to the wine, which was utterly charming.
Very fragile and precise Champagne, which reminded me a little bit of Voette et Sorbee’s “Blanc d'Argile”. Both have the same ultra clear and light weighted style, which for me makes my mind think of Chablis. But still there is a lush a delicate element about this Champagne, which makes it very friendly. Like many others of the new small artisan Champagne producers which uses no dosage and spend a short time on their lees, they tend to have this tight citrus and white flowery blossoms opening and then gradually puts on in weight. In this case notes of tea leaf, anise, sweet biscuits are slowly adding to the wines personality. This Champagne spends about 10 months in small Burgundian barrels and Olivier Collin is like Jerome Prevost (which I have just tasted) a former stagiaire at Anselme Selosse. As the last drops sits in the glass with very few bubbles left, it expresses more of these lovely biscuits and anise notes, which I love so much. The taste was all the time spot on, with vibrant, clear, slim and firm acidity. This Champagne is in the category – drink me morning, day and night. Loved it.