2002 Georges Laval "Les Chênes"

100% Chardonnay
Dosage: 0 g/l
Glass: Spiegelau “Adina red wine”

The other Friday I had planned to have another bottle of Champagne, which was in the lineup in “29 Champagnes”. Even if I rarely declare winners and looser in tastings, I think this one stood out as the shining star of that day. So with Copenhagen’s finest Sushi (The Chef-Choice menu) I poured myself a glass of this elixir. The opening was somewhat disappointing, as it feels shy and not particular giving. However, I have learned to feel relaxed about this with these “new” Champagne things, as they most of the time will open up with air. In this case it’s not just a matter of air, but more pronounced; temperature. I served it @ maybe 9 degrees, but when it hit about 12 (my guess) and up to maybe 15 degrees things started to happen. When served cold, it feels fragile – for sure elegant, but also rather shy. From 12>15 degrees an overload of passion fruits emerges with pineapple, mango, and kiwi, making me think Bátard-Montrachet. Even though the flavors are to the exotic side and making it oilier, it has enormous calmness and harmony, with lots of backbone acidity. It’s spectacular how complex this Champagne is and it has a profile like no other. The bubbles in this Champagne are very gentle and it’s really more a wine than a glass of Champagne. As I mentioned in the “29 Champagne” post, there are 888 bottles produces in 2002 Vintage and in Vintage 2004, 1.776 bottles will be available.

Hunt like daemons, ladies and gentlemen.