Dosage: 2 g/l
Age of vines: Approx. 55 years
Glasses: Zalto White wine and Spiegelau Adina Red wine
Before I popped the cork on this Champagne, I already had an idea how it would be like, as I had tasted it 3 times already. But when I had finished the bottle (all alone) I was actually rather surprised and to some extend my previous analysis was wrong. This is once again a reminder, that you need to care on conclusions - on some Champagnes - before you have had the pleasure of tasting, or at least sharing with someone else, an entire bottle.
In my mind I had the idea, that La Vigne d’Antan was a Champagne with a rich and soft Chardonnay nose. I thought of a dish of scallops, before I opened it, but I actually ended up drinking it with some beef Carpaccio with homemade *pesto and Parmesan cheese (*it’s important to use some lemon peel in the blend, when matching it with white wines or Champagne).
The nose is indeed rich and it’s also elastic as I remember it – so at least I got that right. By elastic I mean the flavours are almost expanding when you stick your nose into the glass. It’s quit fascinating and it’s certainly not hurting the complex touch. If it’s related to the ungrafted vines thing or it’s grown in sandy soil – I couldn’t say for sure? But where I had gotten it wrong it’s in the spices and it’s soil expression. It’s unfolding after 2-3 glasses and taking more and more focus. Most spice notes are dark scented – I wrote Chinese tea on my paper, but also notes of hay and straw came to my mind. The acidity is also in the rise as the mousse slowly calms down and all together the sophistication factor are on the rise, combined with terrific purity, tallness and drinking pleasure.
All in all a fantastic Champagne and I hear the 2002 vintage is soon up for release – I can’t wait.