The small memory film, which is set in motion, when we smell a glass of glass of wine covers many personal stories and it’s one of the treasures about being a wine lover. I came to think about this, when I recently opened the 2002 La Vigne d’or from Tarlant.
In this film, Benoît Tarlant plays the leading role and I can’t help to think of this playful – yet very skilled, committed and curious winemaker – which I have been lucky to meet both here in Copenhagen and in Champagne. It simply makes smile, before I even open the bottle and realizing how important it is to go and see winemakers in order to have an even more memorable and multifaceted wine experience.
This is rather concentrated baby, which opens with a bold dark fruit combo, which initially made me think of wheat tones and freshly baked bread. On the second sniff you get; brown apples, hazelnuts, forest, quince and a note of citrus, which is really important for the balance. The taste is full throttle creamy and waxy style - yet very energetic also, with afterburners of those brownish apples and spices.
Even if this Champagne is dynamite full-bodied stuff, it still feels a bit compact and should unfold additional secondary layers in the coming years. I would however not recommend hands off at the moment if you like me can’t hold that curiosity back.
This is once again proof how splendid a Pinot Menuier can be in the hands of the right winemaker.