100% Riesling – but of course.
In my sad wine life I had a window - where I stocked up in German Spätlese. That obsession ended abrupt and became Champagne.
But returning to Spätlese land reminds me how incredible delicious they are. However the sweetness is tricky for me to handle. You can bend the wine in any shape you can think of, but it will always circle around some degree of residual sugar. This is becoming a dilemma for me, as I tend to favour dryer wines - both Riesling and Champagne for that matter. Why? For many reasons, but one main factor is to fully feel all the soil components, where the sweetness can acts as a small membrane and takes you a few meters away from the action.
These Spätlese are even so low in alcohol, so you can flush a bottle down, like it was lemonade and not really pay much attention what you where drinking. So we are dealing with a wine, which is on one hand captures; pure laid back drinking, but on the other hand the sweetness is taking it some notches down in complexity. Well at least for my palate.
So I thought and so I assumed. The Spätlese category was nailed. Been there, done that. Then this wine comes along and I guess the wine-gods, or maybe it was Herr. Helmut Dönnhoff, which had other plans for me. Fact is, after having drunk this wine over 3 days, I realized that taking notice of some of the worlds most subtle wines, is not a lap dance, it actually requires training and you as a taster to focus and level with the wine. Do that and I promise you, magic appears.
This wine has unbelievable clarity and so many delicious flavours. It’s like the sun on a crisp spring day, with mild winds and bird singing (I am such a romantic). There is still a lot of baby fat on day 1, but it’s always a secondary indicator, as the fruit has such lush, subtle and vivid electricity. Notes may sound like so many other spätlese; honey, peach, lemon, pineapple and small fractions of petrol notes - but it’s underneath brushings of soil components, which gives so much backbone and tallness. Taste is nerve wrecking nice, with laser sharp acidity, crystallized minerals and the sweetness is like turbo boosters, which spins the aromas and quadruples them – not in flavours, but in electricity. The aftertaste is so overwhelming, but yet so weightless.
It feels like the wine wants’ to let you know; “less is always more”.
Sensational wine, Bravo.