Some weeks ago, I had the chance to taste these wines @ Søllerød Kro, as my good friend Bent had invited a bunch of wine lovers.
First time in several
years, I didn’t bring my camera and I must say it was so much more relaxing. So
the images are from the archive.
(The colour of Les Ursules 2009 is something else)
Cedric Bouchard "Les Ursules" (2009)
Selosse
1996
Selosse
les Carelles
Agrapart
Experience 2007
Clos
des Goisses 1996
Meursault
Goutte d’Or Comte Lafon 2004
Meursault
Genevrieres Comte Lafon 2004
Chassagne
Montrachet La Romanee Maltroye 2007
Vosne
Romanee 1 cru DRC 2008
Vosne
Romanee les Genevrieres Leroy 2007
Clos
de Vougeot Leroy 2001
Clos
de Vougeot Meo Camuzet 2002
NSG
les Cras Comte Liger Belair 2006
Grands Echezeaux
DRC 2007
Echezeaux
Comte Liger Belair 2007
La
Romanee Comte Liger Belair 2003
Richebourg
Hudelot Noellat 2007
Chambolle
Musigny les Amoureuses Lucien de Moine 2005
Chambolle
Musigny les Amoureuses Bertheau 2005
Chambolle
Musigny les Amoureuses Roumier 2006
Billecart
Salmon cuvee Elizabeth 1998
(Søllerød kro once again the scene for a tasting)
The 2009 Les Ursules is dynamite juice – so intense and precise. The ooze of tarragon, black cherries and diamond dust are thrilling. The colour was once again amazing.
1996 Selosse – one of the best examples I have had of this wine. Incredible deep Champagne with exotic fruits, buttery sensations and deep quince notes. The taste is shocking long and balanced. Perhaps the best 1996 out there.
1996
Clos de Goisses was completely wiped out by Selosse. I tried to give it some
spotlight, as being in a flight with Selosse is mostly a losing game. It didn’t
make the wine any better and it stands out as much more impure with low energy
and way too much dosage.
Selosse "les Carelles". I am not 100% sure, but I think this
was the 2004, which is blended with a bit of ‘03. It’s overwhelming
concentrated with supernatural powers. Almost too much – but Selosse balances
it out. It has Selosse typical oxidized character. I expressed my concern about
a little too much wine making and trademark of Selosse and not the chalky
Mesnil character. But then again – it’s his interpreting of the terroir and it
also has a beautiful salty finish. I look forward to taste it again and
especially follow it over a whole evening as the oxidized expression so often
caves in with air.
I
have looked forward to taste the 2007 Experience from Agrapart. First of all
placing it in this flight with Selosse was a mistake in my opinion – they were
completely opposites. Many around the table didn’t like it all – especially the
nose. I loved it – absolutely fascinating stuff and I think Pascal have managed
to bring out something very unique. It plays on many strings – ranging from sea
breezes, floral waters, pineapple, mango, buttercup, mint and jasmine tea. It’s
outrageous pure, zippy fresh and sleek. Magnificent stuff.
The
whites were a big step down from Champagne and once again a white Burgundy
disappointment.
I can’t go into all of the reds, but my favourite was without a doubt Leroy’s 2001 Clos de Vougeot. What a thrilling wine it was. Best because it had the best energy, vitality and purity and it actually reminded me most of natural wine.
Both
DRC wines were also lovely. The 2008 Vosne Romanee had a sensational note of roses
and the 2007 Grands Echezeaux displayed notes of tealeaves, pine needles, egg whites and rounded
up with a adorable slim - yet very deep finish.
If to
talk about disappointments, it would be the wines from Liger Belair. These
wines were at all times very polished and oak driven (not alcoholic and
extracted) and easily detected in the flights. I have tasted some of these
wines before outside such a big line-up, where they did better with a very
seductive appeal. They are however quite polished, which in this big line-up
was not a plus. So it happens that blind tastings is not necessarily the “truth”,
but of course an interesting study.
The
last flight was the Amoureuses wines. I was expecting delicate and refined
strawberry perfumes to burst out of the glasses. However, very dark, dense and
somewhat clumsy wines was present in all three glasses. Around the table were
several Burgundy fans, which all believed these wines (especially the ‘05s )
will shine in future. I am no expert here – I didn’t really like them now, but
let’s see.
Overall
I must say it was a very fine tasting.
Thank
you Bent.
9 comments:
hi
It was the Grand Echezeaux 2007 from DRC.
? with what should you pair the Agrapart 2007 there is nothing like this around which i actualy don't mind didn't like it much
regards
Bent
Hi Bent,
I have added “Grand”.
First of all – your pairing was excellent this night and no matter what you put up against Selosse, his wines will always stand out and take most of the spotlight.
If to think of the perfect match or flight duellist – I would include more wines, which of course was not possible at your tasting. For me the role of the terroir is really interesting.
As Agraparts new Experience is taken from plots from L'Avizoise and Minéral it could be rather interesting to taste it up against these two wines and why not add Venus? Experience is made without any kind of chaptalization – also in the second fermentation. He uses only the initial yeast and there is of course no dosage either or any fining or filtering.
I would make the same kind of “test” with Selosse “les Carelles” – testing it up against the remaining 5 new single vineyards (although not all have been released you currently buy a very limited case of all six).
Best from,
Thomas
"Grands" - not Grand ;-)
ja ja det er bare grande
I wish I could have taste it. Wines are always my favourite from the beginning when I tasted it first time. I tasted first time at one local restaurant.
Hi!
Who is the maker of the glass in the second picture from the top (The colour of Les Ursules 2009 is something else)?
@ Anonymous - Glass Spiegelau's handmade line "Adina" - the glass is called "Red wine (water goblet)"...i use this glass always for Champagne.
Best from,
Thomas
Hi Thomas!
I've enjoyed reading your posts. You seem to concentrate on my two favorite areas (Champagne & Burgundy) and obviously taste a lot of interesting wines and make good points about them.
I have a question regarding the showing of Comte Liger-belair wines. Could the "polished" impression come from the fact that they entirely destem the fruit, whereas DRC and Leroy use whole-bunch fermentation?
Have you noticed that you would have some kind of preference for one style or other?
Thanks for the answer. Keep on writing!
BR,
Antti
Hi Antti,
Thank you – nice you like to read to blog.
First of all – it’s true that Champagne is a big time favourite area. In some sense also Burgundy – but I would be even more ecstatic about these wines, if I could afford them. Some of these prestige bottles are luckily in the hands of some of my friends and I often get the chance to taste them. At the end of the line they are indeed fantastic wines.
It’s a very good question you ask. With the knowledge you have, you will probably also know destem or whole bunch fermentation is highly debated. I think it matters a great deal and you could be on to something here. At the end of the day I would always prefer whole bunch fermentation if the result “works as it intended”. By this I mean, adding more complexity to the wine, a lighter tone (by a more gentle fermentation process), some rose perfumes and little bit of tannin structure.
However I also believe the terroir comes into play and the work in the vineyards. So you can’t just say that it will works as intended with all producers. A producer like Armand Rousseau, which I have been lucky to taste a lot of before the prices went bananas, has a very fine tuned and delicate style and he destems the fruit.
Hope it found it useful – otherwise feel free ask if you have further questions.
Best from,
Thomas
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