Tuesday, August 23, 2016

"Textures"

Few would argue, that Vouette & Sorbée have always been one of the most significant Producers in the Côte des Bars. In short Vouette & Sorbée are Bertrand Gautherot. I have met him a few times before – but I can’t say that I know him that well. I sensed, from my fist meeting in 2009, that he was a man with deep influence in heart and mind by the rhythm of nature. He is also an earlier mover towards biodynamic winegrowing. Nor is he afraid of speaking his mind and highlighting some of the obvious contrasts in Champagne.

In terms of the Champagnes from Vouette & Sorbée - their strength have always been a striking intensity. Vouette & Sorbée are right in your face Champagne.  V&S are one of the only producers I buy nowadays with a clear intend of actually cellaring. Cellaring brings out so many nuances in these Champagnes and tames the oak.

This especially goes for "Blanc d’Argile" (100% Chardonnay). A super intense Kimmeridgian soil Champagne, which I bought already from 2004 vintage. Back then the cellaring didn’t improve the wine, as the oak overpowered the fruit with age. Now (from 2006) it’s the other way round. 

The 100% Pinot Noir Carbonic maceration Rosé “Saignée de Sorbée” has always been a beast. A super structured Champagne, with notes iron and Campari. Born for food pairing and it  needs at least 4-5 years in the cellar for my palate.  

The entry-level Champagne; “Fidele" (100% Pinot Noir) might be more forward, but recent vintages have showed a more reserved wine when young.

So when you thought you had everything covered and has laid out the perfect profile on Vouette & Sorbée, Bertrand turns everything upside-down with “Textures”


2013 Vouette & Sorbée ”Textures”


Blend: 100% Pinot Blanc
Soil: I am guessing Portlandian and Kimmeridgian
Vineyard: Pinot Blanc planted in 2000
Viciculture: Bio (Demeter since 1998)
Vinification: 3months in Tonneaux and 6months in Georgian amphora
Dosage: Zero
Disgorged: 28th of October 2015
Glass: Zalto White Wine

I first tasted "Textures" at Bulles Bio in Reims and was blown away.  In July, I shared it with friends in the South of France under very relaxed conditions. The third time was about 3 weeks ago. Once again I was in the magic zone.  

To me this is greatest Champagne Bertrand have ever produced. Somehow it makes perfect sense that Bertrand should make this cuvée. Not because amphora is en vouge, nor because Pinot Blanc is exotic.

No! – Textures simply takes you directly into the Vouette & Sorbée engine room. It’s the purest juice I have ever encountered from Bertrand . It’s feels like drinking directly from the press and it’s as fresh as a Vin Clair. The amphora acts not only as a clarity guarantee, but also as an enhancer membrane, which spins the utterly pure juice into a sophisticated texture. The name is actually spot on. The aromatic notes goes into the direction of dried banana, candied citrus fruits, pear zest and lime. The taste is utterly divine, super precise and elegant. WOW!. 

I have no idea how long it can cellar – but who can resist it now?  

No comments: