Sunday, November 30, 2008

BYO Champagne and Red wine

This Thursday I met with Mia & Mads Rudolf (http://www.petillant.dk/) and my good friends, Holst and Anders @ Fischers. http://www.aok.dk/restauranter-cafeer/fischer

Concept for this get-together was simple; bring 1 Champagne and 1 red wine. All wines where tasted blind.

We started with the bubbles and the first wine in the glass where a typical Mia & Mads wine – extremely pure and biodynamic driven. The nose of this wine was still young, but with adorable fresh apples, flowers and dried fruits (especially banana). The taste is quit dramatic; painful young and rather bombastic compared to the nose and it gives you this; “what happened here?”. But the taste is a bit unbalanced at this stage. The wine in the glass was 2004 David Leclapart “Apotre”. Even though I hate error 40 excuses and lectures about how to taste a wine – I would still say that Apotre is not a wine you have 1-2 glasses of and then make your judgement. Drink a whole bottle – then you will see. Anyway – 2004 Apotre will be released in March-2009 and I look forward to a real date.

Next wine, was Anders bubbly contribution – a 1989 Schramsberg “J. Schram” from Napa Valley and what a shift from Leclapart. The wine had an oozing nose of caramel, honey and cognac – 3 ingredients known to show up in the dosage and this non-Champagne was fun to taste to show diversity, but it didn’t taste good.

Next in line – Holst. “This is just a plain ordinary daily Champagne”, Holst warned us, he he big boys don’t cry, Holst ;-). The wine in hand – “1996 Bollinger R.D” and what a beauty. Very much apples, citrus, flowers and some darker fruits. Superb fresh and really a very seductive wine. Has splendid vibrant acidity, but can easily be drunk now. Bollinger seldom disappoints.

Next Champagne was Mia’s contribution – a very refined wine, with some darker fruits patterns and spices in comparison with Leclapart. It took us in the direction of guessing Blanc de Noirs, but no – once again a Blanc de Blanc. This refined wine was the 2002 'Les Chênes' extra brut, Cumières 1. cru, Domaine Georges Laval. We had it side by side to “R.D.” and it was certainly giving big boy Bollinger a competitive opponent. Bollinger winning with its seductive and creamy side, and Georges Laval taking the trophy in the mysterious category.

Finally my contribution – 1989 Deutz Blanc de Blanc Vinoteque. Next to the previous flight, the wine seemed awkward and of course rather evolved. It almost smelled of cheese and as we where a bit behind schedule, we rested it for later (cheese plate). It did well with the cheese, but in comparison with the Champagne line-up so far – it fell behind in my opinion.

Reds:

First person on the scene – Mia; - with wine that took us all by storm. What a nose – incredible perfume with lavender, strawberry and an Eau de Toilette with roses. Taste was so smooth and delicate, and you simply had to smile. Guesses quickly took form of “Pinot” – “Burgundy” and I heard the name Leroy being mentioned. Mia played along and asked for appellations in Burgundy. But no – we where not in Burgundy, but in Alsace. I think the trick here was once again a biodynamic producer, and most importantly a brilliant wine. The wine; 2004 Heissenstein pinot noir vieilles vignes, sans souffre, Domaine Julien Meyer. Production on this wine is around 800 bottles.

Next in line – Anders - and what a comeback. 1990 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis – Mads said it perfectly “Mama” – when he smelled this glorious Barolo. It’s simply so Italian, so divine, so refined and with so many complex layers and personality. Majestic wine.

Hard to follow this wine – and Mads was next. Again a wine with this red fruit pattern, but this time more restrain and cooler tempered. Taste a bit short, but still fair. The wine is the glass; The red wine from David Leclapart; 1999 Cuvée l'Eden, Coteaux Champenois

My turn – 1997 Antinori Solaia. I tasted Solaia 3 weeks ago at my friend Claus Lysters big tasting and was stunned by its beauty. This night – still a seductive wine of high class with smooth and delicate fruit, but I missed the final edge from good to great. But overall, Solaia is a fantastic wine.

Holst – the next man on stage. A wine, where I found a dilemma between nose vs taste. The nose is infected with a lot of heat, which results in bacon, flesh and almost pain grille. Notes that I dislike a lot. Taste is on the other hand beautiful – lots of structure, good concentration and this brilliant curl around the tongue. The wine; 2005 Soldera “Pegasus”. Now when knowing this, one has to be aware of Soldera aging potential, especially when it comes to his BdM. So things might integrate better. But currently this wine is not a pleasure in my book (when it comes to the nose).

So know it’s starting to blur a bit on memory lane – but Mads served another wine. A very interesting Côte-Rotie: 2004 Coteaux de Tupin, Jean-Michel Stephan.
To end this cozy evening, Mia pulled the cork from another Champagne : Once again a refined thing with lots of personality. The Champagne in hand; NV Reflets d'Antan, Raphaël Bérèche – Champagne done under the Solera principal – as some might know it from Selosse’s Substance. Very nice indeed – I have to taste it again some day.

Thank you all for making this evening a great memory – I have the feeling we will meet again ;-).

Big hug from,

/Thomas

4 comments:

Mia Rudolf said...

HEISSENSTEIN VAR MIN VIN!!! Øvbøv!

Holst said...

Dejlig aften - Pegasos var årgang 2005. i 2004 hedder det Case Basse og den skal man bare ha købt og lagt i kælderen.

Holst

Thomas said...

De ærbødigste undskyldninger, Mia – alt er hermed rettet til ;-).

Holst – Jeg skrev først 2005, så siger du 2004 til mig i går og nu 2005 – din tosse mand ;-)

Tak for en dejlig aften til jer begge.

/Thomas

Mia Rudolf said...

Okay så, Thomas, du er hermed undskyldt. Og tak for en super aften til jer også. Man kunne virkelig mærke finanskrisen kradse lige under håret fredag, hva'!