Friday, February 13, 2009

2004 David Léclapart, L’Amateur, Champagne

(Disgorgement Aug-2007; Glasses, Juhlin and Zalto - both great)

David Léclapart is in the glass. L’Amateur is the basic wine of his collection, but dear listeners, we have entered the twilight zone, and nothing is basic and common here, when we are in the Leclapart zone. Equal for all Léclapart wines is that on the back label of his wines is 4 words; “Pureté, Energie, Plaisir, Ecologie” / “Pure, Energy, Pleasure, Ecology” and if these 4 words where to be 4 Dogme rules, I think L’Amateur is a fairly good protégé. Have you any ideas how pure this wine is? It’s almost too pure – meaning; the wine is aged in enamelled steel tanks and has amazing iron coolness, wet stones, and it’s almost like kissing the sea. The fruit component is pear and it’s so slim and pure, with underlying brushing warmth – which I best can describe as slate (A component I see a lot in German Rieslings) and it gives this distinctive note of smoky minerals. The taste is extremely slim; and the mousse breaks like fragile salty frossen seawater, with a vibrant acidity. It actually opened brilliantly, but then entered a shy phase– but came back again – not uncommon for Leclaparts wines to have so many phases – very authentic. I still believe that there will be rewarding drinking pleasure if you cellar it 2-3 years.

I want to return to a line which I touched upon; “It’s almost too pure”. This is interesting and what L’Amateur is all about – let me elaborate. L’Amateur is a relentless champagne – you get absolute no clues or aids, such as dosage, autolysis or toasted oak. This is the sort of Champagne that will not knock you backwards at first sniff - but be prepared to have an eye-opening vision into a completely new universe. Be prepared for; “Pure, Energy, Pleasure, Ecology”

Needless to say, that I liked it a lot.



voodoo child said...

Well Thomas,
I had the same wine yesterday in Zalto, but we could only drink half of the bottle, so for today we will continue this fine experiment, I believe l´Amateur is
a great intro into this excellent universe.

Thomas said...

Ebbe – I find this L’Amateur interesting to me. Imagine having only drunk the big houses – and encountering L’Amateur??!!! I can easily see someone get spooked, but personally I am becoming more and more addicted to this linear and pure style of Champagne. I have actually just drunk Egly-Ouriet’s Blanc de Noir – that was like going back in time, and what I would have defined as “real” Champagne just 1 year back. Now I am not so sure – what’s “real” anymore?

Anyway – good to see you enjoying some Champagne again – I was afraid that you where seduced to US Pinot Noir land ;-)



Voodoo Child said...

Well Thomas,
I´m just like you can´t drink those wines anymore...
I have been very fond of Egly-Ouriet´s Champagnes but thats all over...I find US-Pinot refressing news as I really never thought that I would get back to PN unless in Champagne, but that has changed.
SKÅL is a fine cave du need to go anywhere else (:-))))

Thomas said...

Ebbe, don’t get me wrong - This is indeed a very fine Champagne.

I guess ones palate will always see new angels and be seduced in some directions. First time I came across one of these fragile and pure shiny new producers, most of them biodynamic – I was a little bit spooked. With, that some of the old school producers you get everything served – you simply don’t have to look for clues or answers – it’s all there. With these new babies it’s different – you seek and learn, and I find that rather interesting. I also find it intriguing, when Champagne is constantly evolving in the glass. It might be the worst candidate for blind tasting events – but it enlightens that the product is “alive” and authentic.