NV Bérèche et Fils, Reflet d`Antan, Champagne

(Dosage 7-9 g/l, production 2.600 btls. – Glasses ; various)

Funny – normally my Champagne notes will tell you about a positive glass evolvement and me wishing for more in the bottle as I lick the last drops out of the glass. This experience was entirely opposite. Splendid opening; with a really delicate and soft insinuating style – like sleeping in cashmere - naked on a Monday. The nose consists of sweet apple juice, vanilla, melted butter and again this velvet style, which gives this Champagne so much smoothness. Taste is powerful, round, lush and really rewarding. It even matched the food, which was Asian inspired; Chicken with cashew nuts, ginger, fish and oyster sauce, red pepper and spring onions. But as time passed, I found it to be somewhat one-dimensional as the sweetness and oak takes control and kill a lot of focus and backbone nerve. Even on the palate it contracts and you never get a real acidity smack.

It’s definitely worth mentioning that this Champagne is made under the Solera principal (goes back to 1990) and the reason for this unique style. For sure there is a lot of personality here, and if you where hoping for a crisp Blanc de Blanc, you are simply not on the right track. I have never been a huge fan of Substance from Selosse (another Solera Champagne) and guess I will never be a fan of Reflet d`Antan – it simply comes down to preference in style, more than judgment of the level of quality. However, I can easily see the purpose of this Champagne, and if to buy and serve this Champagne – it would offer best drinking pleasure if served with cheese or just alone before the dessert – but definitely not as a starter.

Tasted: 9/2-2009