Some weeks back I read some tasting notes on this Champagne, suggesting it was rapid maturing and not only ready for business, but in risk of heading downhill. So – on a recent Friday, with some old School Danish fall – almost winter dish (*sprængt kalvespidsbryst med kartoffelpuré - *no clue what’s that called in English) I opened this bottle. First of all I was immensely happy to see that my choice of food, actually worked pretty okay – another trophy for the food matching abilities of Champagne. Back to the Champagne, which indeed is very open on the nose – oxidized in style, lots of classic autolysis, caramel, dark bread, walnuts and this smooth and glowing style. The personality is rich and broad and the picture should in some way represent the furry side of this style – “Teddy bear style”. Tasting a Champagne of perfect maturity is one thing (and a good thing), but what I missed here was tickly energy. You got a little bit of exotic flowers, almost like a seductive evening perfume, but the soft insinuating style kept it a bit too rich, lacking a bit in sharpness. However, where you never felt it was falling apart was the high 1996 acidity, which brings some sort of freshness to both nose and palate. Overall I would have to say, that I wasn’t jumping up and down, but was fairly pleased. On thing is certain – I see no reason why one should cellar it further.
Tasted July 2009