2006 Vouette et Sorbée "Saignée et Sorbee"
To determine whether you like a wine or not should not only be logical but also easy. This Champagne however challenged that statement. Over the 4 days I tasted it brought me through several phases where I was almost about to give up all hope of embrace and reciprocity.
On a Friday, when I happened to be home alone, I decided to open this always very distinctive rosé Champagne. Apparent that my experience would not be without problems, but that it should evolve in this way, I had not expected.
First impressions were not good. It blasts out of the glass, completely wanton, aggressive and not very appealing. Troublemaker is a beast of oak perfumes and cranberry associations linking to Campari and sherry notes. The taste is tannic, raw, sour and like biting into an iron rod. I drank probably 2-3 glasses like this and quickly decided that we were not meant to be this night.
The next day I tried again. The change is not overwhelming and yet – the oak is secondary, but the Campari and sherry notes are still here..hhhmm. Not particular eager to continue my journey I lost interest and returned maybe 20 minutes later. Aha!!!....something has happened and it's merely temperature, turning hatred to love. With warmth, the wine becomes sleeker, saltier and the fruits take on a more dried style. The cranberry notes are still here, but joined by chords of smoked meat, apricot, buckthorn and vanilla, which are the last perfumes from the oak. The taste is sleek, elegant and the tannic tones are now being replaced with this iron touch, which is also an essential part of the Champagnes structure. At this stage its dazzling Champagne. Overall it’s also food Champagne - requiring attention and immersion.
I saved even a little to day 3 - but felt asleep on the couch, so at day 4, I tried it again. It was still alive, even though the bubbles were now quite secondary. First impressions were the same hideous cranberry / Campari / Sherry notes = horrible. So: Rest and raise it in temperature… wait wait wait ... and we have delicious and seriously sophisticated Champagne with a very strong personality.
So eventually it became love – but remember to serve it around 14-16 degrees Celsius.