2009 Jérôme Prévost “La Closerie Les Béguines”
Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier
My first date with a Champagne from Jérôme Prévost made me realize that the expression of Pinot Meunier doesn’t have to be a baroque experience. Today I know of maybe two or three producers, which can take this grape to such sophisticated delightfulness and Jérôme Prévost is one of them.
His Champagnes are getting more and more sought after, especially at my local northern backyard where it takes about one week before his current release are sold out.
His 2009 were present at the December-2011 tasting and it did extremely well. However the Mad About Wine dogma is about drinking bottles and not 1-2 glasses – so here is a “real” tasting note.
The 2009 are the most elegant “La Closerie Les Béguines” I have tasted so far. It might not posses the concentration of the ’08 or the nerve of the ’06, but it’s the most weightless of them. Rather approachable, but I don’t know if I would call it open, as no oxidation patters are apparent. I have always found the spices absolutely adorable with this Champagne - especially when young, they are sophisticated and racy. All togehter the notes are; sensorial sweetness, black cherries, oat flakes, pear, cornfield, almonds and sour dough. On the palate it floats beautifully, with this vivid weightless appeal, but also a devilish intense acidity.
My only complaint was a small membrane running across the Champagne, which I sometimes associate with dosage. I felt this membrane prevented me from getting a full soil bite. However – I rested 1/3 of the bottle and returned two hours later. Now this membrane had almost dissolved itself and you were able to sort of touch ground a have this splendid structured sandy soil bite.
I should mention that the Champagnes from Jérôme Prévost are a tribute to food, mainly driven from these refined spices and poised acidity. I had this with: Cod, beetroot, cherry, dill seeds and rye bread // Thin slices of stir-fried beef fillet, with pickled mushrooms, porcini mushroom cream, juniper salt and crunchy bread // Salmon Rillettes, plus a selection Italian hams. Everything went great.