Sunday, October 9, 2011

1999 Tarlant "La Vigne d'or", Champagne

Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier
Vines: Planted in 1947
Soil: Calcareous
Dosage: 2-3 g/l
Disgorgement: 13th of July 2004
Winemaker: Benoît Tarlant
Glass: Spiegelau Adina Red wine/Water Goblet

This is my last bottle of the 1999 La Vigne d’Or and I have had my doubts whether to drink it now or wait. I had no suspicion at all whether it was in risk of heading downhill – yet my only concern is that the 1999 vintage in general are marked by a fairly low acidity.

“Puff”…let’s taste the beast.

Super rich nose of evolved Champagne. I wrote “classic” as the fruit composition unfolded in front of me with notes of; hazelnuts, late harvest honey, quince, smoke, vanilla, spices and candied citrus. Despite the latter note, it’s at no point sweet, yet the citrus thing is really keeping everything focused and intense. Taste is round and lush with a waxy structure and overall an extremely seductive Champagne. You could stop here and enjoy every drop – as I did. Yet being a boring analytic – which is not always the right approach – you could raise your eyebrows to a low acidity which got stuck somewhere on the mid-palate and didn’t brought complete magic to the package. Overall – I still find this Champagne among the very best I have tasted from this vintage. I see no risk of it tipping over the next 3-6 years, but because of the low acidity and it providing such a deep aromatic nose, why not start to drink it now.

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