Saturday, October 15, 2011

A bottle of Champagne and a small talk on energy.

1999 Deutz, ”Cuvée William Deutz Rosé”

Blend: 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay
Dosage: No idea – feels like 5-7 g/l
Vinification: Steel
Glass(es): Several – Spiegelau Adina Wine Goblet was the final choice.

One of my absolute favourite wine writers is Terry Thiese. His little book “Reading between the vines” should be on every wine lovers shelf.

One of the chapters circulates around “Aspects of Flavour: The ones that matters most”


I can only dream of writing a milligram of a percentage as good as Terry, but my list would include: Energy.

Energy is a wines vitality and life. It drives from every aspect of the wines personality, all the way from the intensity of the fruit core to the electrical feel of structure to the vibrancy of the acidity and feel of soil energy on the palate. For sure energy is an amalgamation of many things and are inclusive with most of Terry’s principals.

I have become obsessed with energy, as once you have been kissed you are hooked.

It’s a paradox having just presented you with Alexandre Jouveaux 2009 “Préty” which is a wine filled with energy. Deutz is the opposite; lack of energy.

Sulphur is often an energy killer – but in the case of Deutz here – it’s not a sulphur issue. The wines opens fair with some strawberry and apricot perfumes. These two notes have a good salted touch, which I actually tend to like when it comes to Rosé Champagnes, as it feeds the complexity and elegance. However these notes are not pure, as there is an impure herbal note, which is killing both attraction and vitality. When that occurs, the wine gets trapped and takes the gap between wine & taster further apart. Slowly, you loose interest in such a wine and it’s like the raw material doesn’t show at all – or maybe it’s just not good enough? With Alexandre Jouveaux it’s instant contact with the raw material and this equation makes you feel alive and that’s what wine is all about. The taste of Deutz is also a problem, as the mousse has a foaming structure and with a loose ’99-vintage-acidity, it’s a two times disaster.

I have seen tasting notes on this Champagne, suggesting a young breed with cellar potential – sorry, but I don’t believe in it - it’s not made from the right material in the first place.

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