Friday, September 12, 2008

2002 Darviot-Perrin Mersault Genevrieres

(Glass, Zalto Burgundy)

Why don’t I drink and buy more white Burgundy, when I have this affection for Champagne? I will try to answer some of this dilemma below, but first the wine. Classic white Burgundy with; smoke, flowers, lime and this creamy buttery flow. The wines force is its slimness and mineral attack (on the nose) which prevent it from becoming a Mersault melted butter hell. But as with most Burgundy wines, the absolute prime time is spent with sniffing the nose aromas and what I particular like about this wine is the oozing smoke from the oak and the integration manager with the floral aromas from the fruit core. However – when the wine enters the mouths its starts to become a problem for a mousse and mineral addicting person like me. The wine is too “diplomatic” – to smooth…do you understand…probably not…see below. Overall the wine is a pleasure to drink, but not an intellectual challenge.

Dilemma aspect: Why champagne and not white Burgundy? The answer simply can’t be answered so simplified as I have tried here (more has to be tasted). But let’s take a Blanc de Blanc Champagne and a wine like the above. First of all the Champagne comes from a cooler zone. The apple cider is more provocative in Champagne and many of the prominent producers never use malolactic fermentation. And I have a belief that this is the problem that I often come across when a wine like the above enters the mouth. The wine seems a bit more lifeless, but more round and plastic fantastic and easy to the not trained taster. Besides my affection for Champagne the next preference is German Riesling and when a dry Riesling from a top producer enters the mouth you will most often feel a herd of mineral and terroir attack. It might not be easy to digest, but oh boy it’s intriguing. To underline this dilemma some of the Burgundy producers use bátonnage, which makes the wine even smoother and this is not the direction my delicate taste buds are going. Hmmm…I will have to think about this – but I might have found the reason for my missing dedication for white Burgundy…maybe I should drink more Chablis instead?

And PS. I am currently reading a new Danish wine book from Søren Frank “The wines from Burgundy” – brilliant btw..well done Søren. I came across a chapter where Søren Frank talks about glasses. He used the Riedel Sommeliers Burgundy Grand Cru for white and reds – Chablis a more linear and slim glass. So I tried this Riedel Sommeliers Burgundy Grand Cru (as I have a stack of them) with this wine and it was horrible – it totally disappeared. I immediately returned to my Zalto Burgundy…ahhh so much better. But I will for sure try the Riedel Sommeliers Grand Cru again to see if Søren has a point (but I doubt it).

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Not a fan of the Sommelier Burgundy for both red and white Burgundies. Prefer the Vinum Burgundy instead.

When it comes to white Burgundy, do you prefer using a Zalto Universal or Burgundy?