It’s been a while since my wife and I have had a “Friday-Champagne”. My amount of work is slowly starting to ease back and there is more energy and lust for Champagne. I have little experience with 1998 Champagne – in fact this one and the 1998 Dom Perignon is the only two I have tasted. In comparison this is far better and I can only salute Richard Juhlins comment “…one of the most beautiful and harmonic ‘98 that has been released in France. It’s a stunning Champagne. Tight at first with citrus, lime and crushed stones – then slowly flowers, butter, and an outrageous anise tone; adding to the wines personality and complexity. Taste is great, strong at first with this liquorice almost warming up on the back palate like tannins from a red wine. Gradually this also smoothens, but still preserving the anise warmth, like a white Burgundy. Awesome stuff. (95)
1998 Vilmart, Coeur de Cuvee, Champagne, France
Butter, flower perfumes, dark bread, fromage frais, citrus and vanilla. Very lush, superb balance, lovely white Burgundy profile. The Taste is bold, still young with good intensity – with some warmth and vanilla in the closing. In the regular Champagne glass the wine was much tighter and shy. Still good balance in the champagne glass, but the flowery components and level of vanilla was far better enhanced in the Barolo glass. (94+).
1998 Vilmart & Cie, Coeur du Cuvée , Champagne, France
Third time I have tasted this spectacular offering. I knew the problem would be that one glass was not enough time to let the baby flower. Still I chose it because I wanted to introduce some of the guest to the Vilmart universe. Also the Champagne is fresh and we needed something crisp to get us started. Fair to say that I did it’s task fine, but for those who saved a sip or two in their glasses they got a glint of what are waiting for them if they cellar it 5-6 years. Served with Noma’s wonderful snacks.