Wednesday, August 6, 2008

1996 Leroy, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy, France

Having just drunk the 1964 Leroy Grands-Echézeaux, it’s obvious we have a more primary wine in the glass. Not only the age difference, but also the style difference of the Grands-Echézeaux vs. the Clos de Vougeot is noticeable. The wine is far more rustic – still this classic delicate Burgundy sweetness, but reserved and shielded underneath a cape of blackberries and tar. The taste is showing enormous potential and when it hits the palate the acidity and structure breaks up I two leaving the mid-palate hollow – but it actually feels nice and the wine has so much backbone that it is of no concern. With time in the glass the fruit contracted somewhat and it’s clear the wine is far too young. (95+)


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