Sunday, February 28, 2010
2001 Bruno Giacosa "Barbaresco Asili"
NV (2006) David Léclapart "L'Amateur"
Sunday, February 21, 2010
2007 Maison Pierre Overnoy “Arbois Pupillin”
100 % Ploussard sur marnes grise
Sunday, February 14, 2010
2002 Vilmart "Grand Cellier Rubis Rosé"
This brings me to my Friday night Champagne, which had me thinking.
I definitely missed something here.
This Champagne is indeed healthy on many counts. The fruit is voluptuous and singing with a high profiled red Burgundy resemblance. There are also lots of strawberries and apricot perfumes and underneath brushings of: vanilla, smoke, sweet biscuits (feels too high dosed to me), burned butter and spices transforms. The taste is smooth, giving and powerful, but also rather dull. You end up chewing way too much on these sweet/dosage oaky notes and it doesn’t have the weapon of cleansing the palate with refreshing acidity– nor minerals and in all essence; terroir. To some extend it reminds me a bit of Selosse’s Rosé – just worse. It’s a Champagne, which seems more about a style of winemaking than soil in the bottle. I'm on thin ice with such a statement as I don’t have a terroir palate (but I am working on it ;-) ). Even so, that’s the best way I can explain how I felt about it. On top of that, I am already not too happy about a Champagne which is red Burgundy with bubbles – and this is indeed such a Champagne.
However it should be noted, that cellaring could be the trick here, as the 1999 of this cuvée has already adapted a lot more dried fruit elements which can take away some of this tutti frutti red fruit style and hopefully provide elegance and overall balance. I’ll give it the benefit of the doubt, as the 2002 has lot’s of fruit – so cellar –I will….maybe 4 years. But right now…..sooooo disappointing.
Glasses: Juhlin, Spiegelau Adina and Zalto. This small test will be included in the material for “The ultimate glass test”
Sunday, February 7, 2010
2006 Jêrôme Prévost, La Closerie "Les Béguines"
So it’s finally Friday – weekend - and I am home alone.
Plan A is bulletproof – Champagne night; CHECK - bringing home some Antipasti, Culatello ham and Pecorino Cheese from Cibi e Vini; CHECK. Rented a Sci-Fi Movie; CHECK. Nursing the kids and filling them with food, so I am confident they will be sleeping no later than eight o clock….ahhhhhrr…not really, or call it wishful thinking.
Around 21:45, I was ready to sit down and relax. I guess that's not exactly what you call a perfect plan - bummer!!!!
I picked the highly sophisticated Pinot Meunier from Jêrôme Prévost. Now, when I first tasted this 2006 Vintage about a year ago it felt horrible young, and I knew I took a chance by trying it again now. However in Nov-09, it was in the 29 Champagnes lineup, where the bottle in hand was rather forward – and this needed investigation.
Still tight, yes - but not completely shy. To some extend, that was actually a sign of relief, as I would have been more concerned if the wine had evolved as fast as the bottle from Nov-09. It still has a brilliant and very different way of expressing the Pinot Meunier grape to my knowledge. But during the last two years I changed my view towards Pinot Meunier, which I for some reason had categorized as being clumsy and baroque, but also the grape which Krug used a lot of, even if it’s a bit hush-hush.
Prévost makes a really sophisticated version, where you get divine notes of apple and pear, but the package is wrapped in dark pitched spices of black cherries, smoke, mint and currant perfumes. Prévost is a biodynamic producer and the trademark of sleek purity and baby banana notes is certainly there. On the palate the spices are even more pronounced, but they are toned a fraction down when you drink it with food. This is important and food is the best way for it to shine – also because something happens to the overall balance on nose vs palate . Its strong structure and powerful concentration also obtains better balance with food.
I simply had to rest the last third of the bottle for day two otherwise I would have collapsed ;-). On day 2 it was completely shielded – almost nothing came out. Sometimes I rest the last glass for half an hour – letting the mousse die down, the temperature rise, simply to have some sort of feeling what’s “hiding”. But sometimes I can also have a better sense of acidity and maybe I am even lucky enough to get some signs of future potential. This is not a formula, which I can prove works and in some cases, zip happens. But my my…I tell you something happened here. Notes of melted butter, citrus, vanilla, honey and marzipan oozed from the glass with lots of freshness even at 17-18 degrees.
So what am I saying here?
I saying that something is hiding here – something good will become even greater with cellaring. Think I will return in 2 years time.
Glass: Spiegelau Adina red wine (no glass test this time)