Champagne Shaken AND stirred

A visit to Cédric Bouchard.

I have always been drawn and fascinated by people who have the ability to think out of the box. It’s the result of two things. First – I hate flock mentality, which I have been dealing with the last 19 years in the financial markets. Secondly – I have a soft spot for the rare and those who takes things to the limit. I am feeling alive when that happens. However it’s not necessarily the road to success, but in it’s path I always see the opportunity to learn something. When it comes to wine I find it almost crucial to see wine as a challenge, as I like the thought of staying alert and curious, despite I know I am getting older and patterns have started to form.

Cédric Bouchard challenged me for the first time in May 2008 when I tasted the 2005 Les Ursules. I found it fascinating more than I really was ecstatic about it. But there was something there – like the first time you listen to an album and it’s all a big mess, but slowly it grows on you and after a while everything falls in place and suddenly you only hear shear beauty.

Cédric Bouchard has also challenged my belief of what Champagne is and maybe I was a sitting duck for that dilemma, but fact is – today I see Champagne offering far greater spectrum and funny enough he ranks among my favourite producers. All of his Champagnes are true gems with fascinating profiles; strong personalities and Champagne would be a poorer place without him.

For some odd reason, during my early days as a Champagne interested person, I never considered the Aube region of Champagne to be taken serious. In fact, when I first heard about “Aube” I had to examine a bit closer, to really understand where and what? Today, I think very few Champagne lovers will still refer to Aube as the “The Ugly Duckling of Champagne”. The swan transformation has indeed occurred and producers like eg. Vouette et Sorbée, Olivier Horiot, Marie-Courtin, Demarne-Frison and of course Cédric Bouchard are producing Champagnes which has changed and diversified the Champagne landscape even more.

Still, with my very limited knowledge, I consider Aube to be rather different. There is something urban – something Jurassic about the soil feel in some of these wines, which is truly inspirational and fascinating. In some areas of Aube you have historic proof of nature biting back with formations of chalk which is 100 millions years older than those you will find in Côte de Blanc. Even the villages here are different. Older – more middle age and you will find no polished facades or avenues with flower settings.

On my way to Celles-sur-Ource, where Cédric resides, I passed a white car – “That was him”, I shouted to my friend in the car. And yes…it was him. He pulled us over when we entered his hometown, as he also recognized my big Danish head and took us up to his place.

The production facilities of Cédric Bouchard are very austere like I have seen @ David Léclapart. It’s a one-man operation, from the work in the vineyards, cellar to disgorgement, wrapping and packing of the bottles. He makes roughly 6.000 bottles divided on 4 different cuvees (Les Ursules (100% Pinot Noir) / La Haute-Lamblée (100% Chardonnay) / La Bolorée (100% Pinot Blanc) / La Creux d’Enfer Rosé (100% Pinot Noir)) and 8.500 bottles of entry level wine; the 100% Pinot Noir “Inflorescence”.

The dogma of Cédric Bouchard is; one grape, one harvest and one parcel. “Blending doesn’t interest me, he says”. His yields are also ridiculous low. “I only want the best and even if a vintage from a parcel is good, but not the best – I will not make it". He practices sort of natural viticulture, but he is not certified organic or biodynamic, as he doesn’t like to be following specified methods. Nor does he like to be defined to belong in a certain category. He is also realistic and with so little land at his disposal, loosing a vintage due to dogmatic methods could bankrupt him. “I have only sprayed with chemicals once and hope I will never have to do it again, he says”.

Dosage would be like writing his own dead wish – it will never happen. Dosage is associated with Champagne and the more you get to know this guy, you begin to understand that he doesn’t really want to be associated with Champagnes paradoxes of mass production, glamour and whatever could be interpreted as “classic Champagne”. He even suppress the bar pressure to about 4.5 atmosphere (normal is roughly 6) as he in general don’t like bubbles, but also to bring forward the vinous side of his Champagnes.

All his Champagnes are made in steel, but as he is off curious nature and still sees himself on an experimental level he has an experiment going on in oak. The experiment is Coteaux Champenois – both white and red. The white comes from Chardonnay row in the Le Creux d’Enfer vinyard and the red is from the same vineyard and Les Ursules, just Pinot Noir. He is still sceptical about wood. “Steel will always bring more purity to the wines and I will always prefer steel for my wines”…but he continues, “Oak does something to the wine, which I find interesting and I want to learn more”. The two Coteaux Champenois will only be released in magnums in a ridiculous low number of 146 bottles, starting with the 2007 white and 2008 red.

In his cellar - Cédric had lined up 6 bottles for us to taste.

We kicked off with 2008 Inflorescence, which is a 1.49ha Pinot Noir plot called “Val Vilaine” in the village of Polisy . The Vineyard belongs to his Father, which he also shares cellar with, but it’s Cédric who makes the wine. In fact it was also his father, which kicked off his entrance to winemaking by giving him a go with the Les Ursules vineyard back in 2000. But despite family blood and sharing cellar, their philosophies about Champagne making and general relationship are in complete and colliding contrast. Their relationship is constant key to frustration for Cédric and it’s obvious they can’t continue making Champagne under the same roof. Cédric hopes he can obtain a cellar up for sale in a nearby village, which will give him a fresh start and the opportunity to expand a bit. I doubt you will see him produce a lot more bottles, unless he obtains more land, but from 2014 he will have the space to label all of his wines, except “Inflorescence” as official vintage Champagnes. But he is also planning releasing a cheaper Champagne than “Inflorescence”, as he wants his wines to be for everyone to enjoy. In fact when asking about his sudden cult status, he is very aware of keeping his prices fair, so they can be enjoyed by real wine lovers, he says. Again – it’s the same pattern; he doesn’t want anything to do with the “dark side of Champagne”. Who can blame him?

The 2008 Inflorescence was by the way splendid – with divine ripe and pleasurable forward fruit and it’ the best vintage I have taste so far. Already at this entry level you get a sense of what the Cédric Bouchard fuss is all about. You can find a more detailed note here.

Next up was 2003 La Parcelle. I have only read about this cuvée until now and it’s again Pinot Noir from a 0.73ha parcel called “Côte de Bechalin”. This Champagne is not made by Cédric, but by a close friend of which Cédric bought the vineyard in 2007. This 2003 Vintage is also the final release of this cuvée. But it’s great Champagne and despite being from the opulent 2003 vintage, you have great red fruit and that sleek texture.

I have really looked forward to taste 2008 Les Ursules, which was next. We are still in Pinot Noir land – 0,9721ha and this vineyard are located in Celles-sur-Ource and the wine, which initially formed the making of the house “Roses de Jeanne”. Les Ursules is from release always a bit more backward, compact and more structured than Inflorescence. It posses greater layers of complexity and I tell you the 2008 vintage is more than good. I am totally in love with those black cherries and currant perfumes. 2008 Les Ursules is more of everything and despite it has plenty of cellar potential you have to try it now.

The next Champagne was the 2006 La Haute-Lamblée (100% Chardonnay). It’s a tiny tiny plot 0,071 ha with very young vines planted in 2002. Amazing so young wines can produce this kind of quality. I have tasted the 2006 once before in Berlin Sep-2010 and I found it absolutely adorable. But back then – I considered it to be rather transparent with its lush, ripe and yellow fruits. Now – it’s contracting a bit, showing more young Chablis like character with the minerality really biting back. It’s giving more structure even if we are still dealing with this sleek type of Champagne.

Already now, after 4 Champagnes, I was thinking, “This is heaven”, despite we are in a cold dark cellar. However more was to come. Next was 2006 La Bolorée (100% Pinot Blanc). La Bolorée (0,2107 ha) was one of 3 parcels for sale, but Cédric was far from the only interested buyer. So what to do? They drew lots and Cédric won La Bolorée. He was not at all happy about his award. “I took up a spade and dug a hole in the ground to see what I had obtained”. He encountered a south exposure vineyard with old Pinot Blanc planted in 1960 with soil on chalk. He now smiled and now knew he had obtained something beyond the ordinary, because La Bolorée is the only vineyard from Cedric solely on chalk where the other Champagnes are on argilo-calcaire soil. “The soil of La Bolorée is something else he says…and he continues “I see my Champagnes as small individuals personalities, just like people and this is what I want to bring forward”. La Bolorée are indeed a Champagne with a strong personality and maybe his most demanding Champagne. The 2006 are far shyer than the 2005 debut vintage. Incredible compact Champagne with a strong herbal touch it’s not easy Champagne to understand. It twists your mind and takes Champagne to the limit – but it’s also holding your attention and slowly making you understand as the herbal notes transform into sophisticated notes of ginger, wet rocks and hay. Personal, I can’t get enough of this Cuvée and I think it’s the one with the best cellar potential.

Just before I headed to Champagne I tasted the 2004 Le Creux d’Enfer rosé. Here it was again – one of the 475bottles made. You can read a more detailed note here, but I can confirm that this bottle was breathtaking as well

So that was it. Cédirc Bouchard more than fulfilled my expectations. He is truly fascinating with a strong passion in his heart and producing some of Champagnes most significant wines.

Sushi

(I have been asked about the dinnerware on the image: The big serving plate is in bone china from Rikke Jakobson - The boat shaped dinner plates are form Figgjo (Front line) - the silk mats are from Armani Casa)

I thought it would be appropriate to upload a photo of my favourite Sushi take away. Located about 30 meters from where I work - Sushi Saiko delivers Copenhagen's finest Sushi. On the image you have "Chef Choice", which is just a notch better than the 24 pieces standard package.

Even though I love to cook, I can guarantee you, that on a Friday - my goal is simply to do as little as possible and have a good bottle of Champagne. As Sushi is not exactly the worst thing you can do to Champagne (go easy on the wasabi) I often go for this option.

Tarlant

By driving to Champagne by car, I decided to prolong the trip by an extra day. The car came in quit handy, as I quickly arranged an appointment with Benoît Tarlant up in Oeuilly, where I had never been.

I have met Beniôt before in Copenhagen and of course also the day before at Terre et vins de Champagne. He is like many of the other wine makers - I have met from Champagne, a kind a warm person.

Before I had the privilege to met Benoît and be sort of, becoming more acquainted with his range of Champagnes, I always thought of Tarlant as being a fairly big and conservative wine grower. But I have slowly realized, that this is not the case. It seems to me, that Benoît is a person with enormous passion for his work, not on a mission to change, but more on a path of untameable curiosity. Benoît’s father; Jean-Mary - has for a long period embraced balanced viticulture with no use of chemical pesticides or fertilizers. Benoît are of course taking the same steps in order to improve soil quality, but also fine tuning the future potential of the Tarlant vineyards. This is seen in the recent introduction of the 2 single-vineyard cuvee’s. The Blanc de Blancs “La Vigne d’Antan” from ungrafted vines, where the phylloxera is not able to penetrate due to the very sandy and siliceous soil. The second one is the 100% Pinot Meniuer; La Vigne d’Or which vines dates back 1947.

But it doesn’t stop here, as I was about to see and also taste. Benoît has 2 new projects in the pipeline – or maybe more? – who knows? I am not even sure if I allowed writing about them, but I can tell you this much that one is still unmanned (currently just labelled with a "WW" marking on the bottle), was one of the most intense Champagnes I tasted on this trip. Another project is called "BAM" (Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, petit Meslier), but I better stop here and let Benoît reveal their true identity, when they are ready to be released.

And of course there is Discobitch, which just tells you, that some of today’s Champagne makers just likes to have fun. Benoît heard the song "C'est beau la bourgeoisie" by the French pop group Discobitch and immediately loved the song, which became a number one hit in France. Called the group and told them that he would make a Champagne called “Discobitch”. Despite its funky name and nightclub appeal, Discobitch is the real deal, as it’s basically cuvee Louis juice which is an extremely mouth coating and giving Champagne.

We tasted several vins clairs in the cellar and the whole Tarlant range in the tasting room – I think we had 16 wines in front of us. I love his simple Zero Champagnes, both the “Brut” and the “Rosé”, which the sort of Champagnes which just brings you in good mood, with their clean and vivid fruit. The 2002 “La Vigne d’or” is being released shortly and I strongly urge you to look for it. I would still cellar it though, just a year or two and it’s a power Champagne, but yet with the right finesse and balance. We also tasted the “2002 La Vigne d’Antan”, which is no way near ready yet. A Champagne with clarifying and vinous character, but currently so shy. Its release is still unknown, but it could take some time.

Benoît, if you are reading this, thank you so much for your great generous hospitality, I hope to see you again.

For more information: http://www.tarlant.com/

NOMA Update - Worlds best restaurant

Noma has just been voted Number 1 (The World’s 50 Best Restaurant)

It’s insane.

You can argue whether such a list can have a valid say and I have never personally been in favour of top this and that. Sort of naming the world’s best wine.

But I can assure you, that for Denmark, Nordic food and especially the Noma crew it means the world. It’s a giant step in unfolding the Nordic food chest and telling a story which has just begun.

One thing is for certain – it will be impossible to get a table there now. I will visit again 19th of June – what about you?

Champagne is required now – CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!

NOMA

I wish I could have presented you with photos of Noma fine cuisine – however it’s not possible for me to take images during a business dinner. Trines Very Good Food has some brilliant images of the food – otherwise go to the website. All the images here, are shot just before lunch service on a beautiful spring day in April.

Almost exactly a year ago I wrote my first ever concerned review about restaurant Noma. Since then I have given it a lot of thought - if it was just a bump on the road or was it maybe just me, not understanding that type of food anymore?? A visit to Noma is a full blown sense bombardment, but it's also storytelling and last time I seemed lost in understanding the story.

Noma is Nordic food. So dogmatic rules has been engaged since the opening and only Nordic ingredients are allowed. When Noma started, everyone thought such a concept was insane and a limitation, but as Noma gradually opened the treasure chest of the Nordic food landscape, gained knowledge - it turned out to be a gift. Noma slowly claimed one success after another and is currently considered No.3 Restaurant in the world, by the Restaurant Magazine (50 best).

I have always admired Noma courage by embracing such a risky concept. Nordic and Denmark may sound as the easiest plan in the world, but as you can read in the Noma cookbook, Noma was facing financial disaster shortly after the opening, as the supply lines of the Nordic kitchen was not something that was just out there. It's easier to buy asparagus from Thailand than buying a pristine scallop from Norway. So everything was small steps on unfamiliar territory and a journey in understanding what the Nordic seasons has to offer and how they can be turned into a successful plate of food.

Chef René Redzepi has been there from the start and it seem like Noma is he brainchild where he has been able to, not only define the restaurants profile, but also be the leading voice of Nordic cuisine. Noma has been, and I believe still are, a strong inspirational source for many of the restaurants here in Denmark and around the world.

So...

....On the 12th of March I sat down again, with some clients from Paris - almost tense about getting on with the dinner. First thing which caught my attention, was the calmed and personal service. Now, the last visit I noticed too many waiters and too many chef's presenting our food and then rushing away to the next table or back to the kitchen. This time it was calm, personal and even our guest from Paris noticed this informal service, which simply makes you feel welcome. For me it's vital that you immediately feel welcome and simply just relax. It's something which is natural for Noma as the atmosphere of the rustic room almost invites you in. I also have to make kudos to waiter/sommelier; Ulf, who served our table and handled the wine as it where small treasures. So far - so good.

But the best was yet to come.

We started with the appetizers. Maybe because it's been a while since I have been to Noma without my wife, I haven't noticed you now are sharing the appetizers. It's a good thing, it makes you talk about the food and pay attention, as you sometimes can get lost in conversation and sipping Champagne. All appetizers were tasty and well composed in their serving order and tickle the taste buds as appetizers should do. But also here my guest and I got the first laughs of picking up and eating food with our fingers and also being presented with wicked and creative presentations.

The dinner blew my mind. I would go as far as calling it artistic. Food which you have no idea how to create yourself and which are so exquisite and seamless combined, that you actually feels like you are witnessing something truly special. I was actually proud to be sort of a Danish Ambassador to my foreign guest. They had never tried anything like it.

I can't go into all the details about the food as I tried to relax as much as possible.

But here are some highlights.

The langoustine dish was out of this world good - Goosebumps all over me and it didn't make it any worse that we had the 1996 Jacques Selosse with that dish. The Champagne is still young, but slowly starting to show some glow of walnuts and quince. However the acidity snaps everything together and makes the focus unique and razor sharp. What a Champagne.

The pike dish was also brilliant - incredible flavours mixed together. Also remember the first dish, with variations of beetroot. Incredible, how such a dish is composed in rich flavours and yet so subtle at the same time. This is in general a red line for Noma and to me their strongest card.

The dish, which I hated the most, last time I visited Noma was pickled vegetables and bone marrow, herbs and bouillon. This dish was also served this night, but it had been altered slightly. The difference was the bouillon. Last time it was poured as a soup over the vegetables and taking complete control and ruining the dish, as the soup was so fat and sweet. This time it was sprinkle more gently and magic appeared. The bouillon holding a lot of sweet components and when touching the vegetables, their flavours exploded. On top of the dish (think it was also altered from last time), there was some herbs with an acidic touch (maybe it was wood sorrel). Magic - pure magic.

(Sommerlier Pontus Elofsson)

Ahhh...wine...I studied the wine list before we arrived (but of course) and I had an idea that we could do the wine menu and use a few stand-ins' - like the previously mentioned, 1996 Selosse Vintage. The other wine I had set my eyes on was the 2001 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny "les Amoureuses". It was a beautiful wine, not as ballerina light and perfumed "red" like other Amoureuses, but with more rough intensity and devilish bite. Even if a bit rustic and young, it was killer nice and matched the food perfectly.

Planning is one thing - spontaneously joy is another thing - so we actually got a little thirstier. I saw the extremely rare 2004 Cedric Bouchard "Rosé de Saigness Creux D'Enfer" on the wine list and simply could resist. It didn't match the food though, but it still offered a unique rosé charm, with its sleek, spicy and bone dry style.

While I washed my hands at the men's room, I realized upon return to the table, that my guest thought we needed a new bottle of Champagne. Oh well - this late only Substance from Selosse (deg. 10/07) could work, so we went for it. Great stuff, even if it's not my favourite Champagne, it provided so much full throttle and hedonist pleasure and it was the perfect way to end this evening.

Well Noma - I think we can safely conclude that I was a very pleased costumer when I left the restaurant.

London / Paris visit

(A Mime artist in front of Notre Dame)

All images are from Paris – it’s impossible for me to shoot photos at a business dinner.

My early visit's to London is like déjà vu: First business meetings and then dinner @ The Ledbury.

I'll spare you the details about the business meetings and although the dinners are also business related, I do get the chance to pay attention to food and wine as some of my guest's are also into the geeky side of wine.

But first I had a rather extensive lunch out at Canary Wharf - more specific at @ http://www.rokarestaurant.com/ . Japanese food goes very well with my Champagne disease, and I am a big fan of the purity and elegance this food offers. Even the more spicy side, always make me think of a mouth-watering German Spätlese. Our lunch menu offered everything from sashimi, Sushi, lamb cutlets, soft-shell Crabs and a big juicy mackerel (plus some other stuff I can't remember) - it was just what I needed. We had the NV Billecart-Salmon rosé with all the courses. This Champagne used to be one of my favourite rosé Champagnes, but I found it really simply and playing too much on strawberry notes. However it delivered good freshness.

(Life in the metro of Paris)

Dinner @ The Ledbury. They have obtained their second ** Michelin star since I last visited, but to me nothing has really changed. It's still a brilliant spot. Due to my good friend Anders, which is a regular there (he lives just around the corner to the restaurant) they prepared a special tasting menu for us. The food might not be so intellectual challenging, but it's very rich in flavours without being heavy. The ambience has a calm lounge feel and service is warm and professional.

We kicked of with 3 bottles of Champagne (we where 4 people). First up; the 2005 La Bolorée from Cedric Bouchard. Now I have been doing the moon walking dance of ecstasy with this cuvée, but this night it seemed a bit shyer and leaning in the direction of some citrus nuances. I am usually not in favor of "Falut 40" explanations when it comes to wine, but it made a significant difference that this wine was pulled directly from an ice bucket. The Champagne needs a serving temperature of 12-14 degrees in order to make the flavours shine and a white wine glass - not a flute glass (ours was the Spiegelau Authentis). The next Champagne could have faced the same dilemma, as it also was served rather chilled. Still in Cédric Bouchard territory - but now the 2006 Les Ursules. It's rocking this night - darker fruit patterns with perfumes of cherry dust (don't ask me what that is), with magnificent currant flow on the palate - brilliant.

The third Champagne was problematic to me. It was the 1996 Dom Perignon Rosé. When having drunk so pure Champagnes so far (and what I usually drink), it comes across as being incredible impure. I can live with notes, which are young and unresolved, but this was like sticking your nose into an old dusty sofa. Now, from what I have read about the pinky DP, it's made for the long run, according to chef de cave of DP; Richard Geoffroy. So we rested half of the bottle for the cheese plate and went on with the red wine. When returning later the wine had lost some of this impurity and starting to show salty red fruits, but it's still not particular friendly. If you are into this posh pinky beverage I suggest you cellar at least another 5-7 years - maybe more?

The red wine was from New Zealand: 2004 La Collina, Bilancia, Hawke's Bay. It's a wine far from what I usually drink and even if it's a bold syrah with notes of blackberries and wet animal fur, it's pleasing to the palate and not in any way heavy. Went really well with the food.

Will I be back @ The Ledbury in 2011? - I think so

(Our funky room)

After London - where other place to go than Paris, when the Eurostar train is just in the neighbourhood. Even if this blog is mainly about Champagne, wine and food (in that order), I would strongly recommend the small boutique Hotel we stayed at. I think the picture of our room says it all. Here is the web site http://www.hotelpetitmoulinparis.com/

I wanted to find a restaurant in Paris, which had lots of Parisian ambience and was moderate priced. After reading Trines review and getting final confirmation from my own personal Paris guide, I booked a table @ La Chateaubriand (129, avenue Parmentier,11th arrondissement,Tel: +33 1 43 57 45 95).

I simply loved it. The food was understated, subtle, and yet so expressive and had a really nice authentic touch to it. Ambience was just like I had hoped for - packed, noisy and with lots of vibe. We had two glasses of the NV Les Vignes de Monteguex fra Jacques Lassaigne, which did exactly what it was supposed to do; tickle the taste buds and provide appetizing simple freshness. For red I picked the 2007 Aloxe-Corton from Fanny Sabre, which was filled with red cherry notes, spices, rubber and lots of sweet harmonic fruit. Loved it.

(A corridor at the Louvre)

I can't help to notice, especially when in France, the poor choice of wine glasses you are offered. The same goes for La Chateaubriand. However - on such a night, just sitting an enjoying life, food, wine, and ambience with my wife, it's fine - even for the no. 1 glass geek.

It's great to travel - it's even better to have to a break for parents like my wife and I, as the daily life offers many challenges. But I tell you, there is nothing greater in life, than seeing your kids again.

Cheers.