Many of
these wines are tasted either at home or in the company of good friends
without any notes taken.
Champagne
3 Champagnes tasted in London with my friend,
Anders.
2006
Georges Laval “Les Hautes-Chévres”
They say Vincent
Laval have made his best vintage ever in 2006. Now, that would be impossible
for me to judge, as I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to Laval. But my
God what a Champagne I was about to taste. Mind-blowing complexity with a deep
scented Pinot Noir frame, holding slightly overripe fruits and yet it has such
a sleek presentation driven by a mineral overload. A very young Champagne, but
with such vitality ,who can keep hands of now?
2006
Larmandier-Bernier “Vieille-Vignes de Cramant blanc de Blancs”
Hard to
follow Laval’s quality and I needed a few minutes to level with this Champagne,
which of course is a different grape and terroir. It’s not as deep as Laval
(few are), but this is beautiful Champagne, holding creamy sensations of milk
skin, banana and pastry. Cristal clear taste with good mineral bite.
2006
Georges Laval “Les Meuniers de la butte”
Fell rather
lucky getting the pleasure of tasting this rare release once again. This bottle
was slightly more reserved compared with my previous experience in Dec-2011.
Still a one of a kind and the most exotic Pinot Meunier I know of.
At home
again:
NV Laherte
“Les Clos"
My last
“Les Clos” in June-2011 was the first disappointment ever and I have
been eager to erase that experience ever since. It happened a weekend in
March-2012, were this Champagne once again won my heart. I loved it – find it
absolutely stunning with sizzling fresh appeal of both greenish fruits, citrus
overload, sophisticated spices (like black tea) and a great acidity game. I believe
this bottle was disgorged in early 2010.
2004 Georges
Laval “Cumiéres Brut Nature” from Magnum
Served for
lunch at my wife’s birthday. Everyone around the table loved it – including me.
Just plain a simple adorable with solid baseline of spicy scented fruit,
matched up with citrus sparkling and vibrant mineral bite.
2006 Christophe
Mignon “Millésimée”
First time
I taste Champagne from this producer.
This cuvée is based on 100% Pinot Meunier. A Rich Champagne, with honey
fruits, brioche, flowers and some caramel associations. There is deep baseline
of dark phrasings, spice-window adding to its density and rich appeal. Despite
such bold a character it’s also holds decent purity and a very vibrant acidity
keeping everything in balance. I found it very pleasing to
drink. Very interesting new Champagne discovery.
NV (2007)
TH & V Demarne-Frison “Goustan”
Another
pleasurable reunion – yet it’s evolving a bit faster than anticipated. A
Champagne born with really splendid sensorial sweetness, despite the absence of
dosage. It’s now accompanied with deeper honey flavours and even some brioche
notes, taking the seductive appeal higher. The acidity is still firm, but I
believe it will have it’s peak now + 4years.
2009 Cédric
Bouchard “Les Ursules”
It’s a
shame I didn’t shoot an image of the colour on this Champagne. The 2009 have an
incredible dark glowing colour and it’s a beautiful treat for the eye. The
inside of the bottle is not bad either, yet I would like to cellar it some two
years more before I try it again. It shows how compact and well build Les Ursules
are. You can already tell the material is there – however it’s not unfolding
yet and the dark cherry notes create too much bitter components for the moment.
I am confident it will be better to wait.
2006
Bérèche “Instant Rosé No.1”
I have
always loved this Champagne, but when I bought my six-pack just after its’
release I had no idea it would become a cult Champagne - and Raphaël’s best Champagne.
It’s been a year since I last tasted it (April-2011 @ Terre et vins de Champage
from Magnum) and it has gained even more intensity.
For me it’s a textbook rosé Champagne with salty red perfumes of strawberry and
apricot. There is a bit more smoke providing a deeper spectrum and a solid
intense baseline. It never get’s too much and it’s so focused and complex. Also a Champagne ,which you can easily
raise up to 16 degrees in temperature without it loosing nerve and focus. Absolutely adorable Champagne. Disgorged 4th of May 2009.
Whites:
Mostly tasted Alexandre Jouveaux and my favourites “Chez Charles” and “Selves”. But I did
also have a Riesling:
2005 Müller-Catoir
Riesling “Breumel in den Mauern” Grosses Gewächs
Extremely
bold Riesling opening without any kind of focus and pleasure. In the glass I had
an opulent and alcoholic Riesling. It gave away a lot of unfriendly spice scents
– sadly leading to reductive tones and in the end giving away some sulphur
resemblance. I couldn’t continue the journey and rested it for another day. Day
two and three it was still horrible, but at day four some signs of improvement
came forward - with a bit more clarity setting in. I liked the structure more
than the bouquet itself, but overall it never became a successful date. Maybe
it’s in need of further cellaring?
Reds:
2001
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve
Highly
sensual and seductive Italian Sangiovese wine, with a mouth coating appeal. It
starts with eat-me-tiger notes of vanilla, leather and dark cherries – all
wrapped up in a tense and velvet styled finish. As you pour yourself one glass
after another the wine becomes more and more monotone as main attraction is not
complex notes, but a wine masked by a way too high level of new oak. That said – it’s not a wine that is hard to
drink – it’s just a wine that doesn’t tell a story.
2008 Julien
Courtois “100%”
I
told the retailer that I was looking for a wine with higher purity and
preferably fragile red fruit. “Here is
one I think you will like, but it’s not a wine with fragile red fruit”, he
said.
First
impression was something like “hmmmmm”…yes for sure not that fragile red fruit
I am always hunting for – but instead dark luxurious fruits. The wine has certain
sensuality, flowing with blackberries, dark cherries, forest floor and a
sophisticated note of celery. The taste is incredible fresh, juicy, silky and
best of all really light weighted. Very delicious.
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