A tasting with mixed emotions

(Our host, Bent)

(All image are clickable and will open a larger format)

On Saturday the 3^rd of September my good friend Bent hosted another tasting at our favourite wine tasting joint – the always-striking good Søllerød Kro. You might begin to wonder if Søllerød Kro is the only restaurant we have here in Denmark. Luckily no – but it just happens it’s so convenient to have tastings there, as the restaurant can always adapt to whatever theme we have lined up and we always have our own private lounge.

But as you have seen at least 6-7 tasting reports from Søllerød Kro on this blog, I chose to rest the camera a bit and just shot some simple label images at the end of the tasting.

You are about to see quite critical tasting notes, which might make you think if I have lost it. I have given this a lot of thought - on how to present my negative reflections and it has to be the raw version, otherwise it makes very little sense to share different angels of a palate – as I believe there is not an official right or wrong. So please chime in, if you think my conclusions are the most ridiculous you have ever read.

But lets get right down to the action, as the start was excellent…all wines served blind.

Intro:

NV Tarlant “Discobitch”

Lovely as always. A Champagne which brings forward a classic style of citrus and flowery components with underneath brushings of spice box and autolysis formation. If being overly critical you could say you end up chewing too much on these darker phrasings notes on the last meters – but yet the Champagne delivers an incredible mouth coating and juicy style. I loved it.

Heat 1

2006 Lilbert “Blanc de Blancs”

Lilbert is not entirely new to me. I have tested their basic Champagne over the summer and it’s Champagne, which requires some cellaring. This vintage version is unbelievable tight and very to judge. It only gives away some chalky and flowery impression. On the palate it feels rather hollow on the mid-palate and leaves very small data to analyze from. We shall see again in 5-7 years.

2002 Philip Gonet “Belemnita”

This fairly limited release from Philip Gonet is a beautiful specimen. Really expressive on the nose it instantly took the spotlight in this flight. Notes were; Banana, hay, overripe peaches and milk. Taste is powerful, juicy, lush and extremely giving. Brilliant stuff and a rather open 2002 – even though it will easy last another 10 years.

(The one and only Discobitch from Tarlant)

2006 Chartogne-Taillet “Les Barres”

A slow starter – but also a start with some concerns of way too high-pitched notes of lilies flowers. The Champagne was not in full balance – but after 15 minutes it found both balance and enormous amount of energy. From the glass rose bio driven notes of baby banana, citrus, blackberries and really sophisticated spice section. Knowing its Pinot Meunier it’s really one of the most refined versions I know of this grape. Fantastic.

Ps. I have to say I prefer my Champagne in bigger glasses than those provided here – the classic Spiegelau Authenthis….not a bad glass, but it has it’s limits.

Heat 2

It felt like I was the only dull person in this white-Burgundy party/ flight. I don’t really get the greatness of white Burgundy – especially when I compare it against Champagne…which I know is kind of stupid…so be aware of this….the table loved this flight.

1999 Domaine Leflaive “Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon”

Needed some air to get rid of some weird spicy notes, which some first thought was sulphur. Otherwise it’s “classic” with white flowers and apples and a rather stony expression. Taste has solid level of clarity and chalkiness, but it just falls into a category of thousands of other wines and therefore looses a lot of character I think.

(2006 Les Barres - image from Terre et vins 2011)

2002 Etienne Sauzet “Batard Montrachet”

It was discussed whether this bottle was off or not. Problem was a rather evolved style – compare to it flight revivals. Anyway – it started okay’ish if you were looking for seduction and the lowest cleavage of the flight. Sexy stuff, with funky deep scented vanilla flavours, melted butter, evening perfume and a very oily style of wine. The taste was quite different – actually posses some tallness from high minerality and a poised acidity. However with warmth – the party was definitely over and the wine completely collapses and obtained more and more creasy notes of sweet bubblegum, which also turned against the taste. Not nice.

2002 Domaine Leflaive “Batard Montrachet”

As with “Clavoillon” – it needed some time to get rid of some weird notes. When having unfolded – which took some time IMHO…and especially warming up in the glass was a big contributor – it possessed notes of apples, lime and popcorn. There was also a very fine and subtle toned spice section – such as smoke and resin, which all together was giving the wine more complexity. However – and despite easily being the best wine of this flight, there is not much emotional stuff going on inside me…the wine is too technical correct IMHO…but I guess that’s my white Burgundy dilemma.

(2002 Domaine Leflaive “Batard Montrachet”)

Heat 3

Time for red wines

2002 Louis Jadot “Bonnes Mares”

Strange wine, which at no point delivered some kind of clarity. The fruit is dusty, muddy, herbal and with some dark bitter chocolate components lurking in the background. Taste can’t save it – same stuff going on here and it’s simply lacking fresh fruit.

2002 “Clos du Tart”

Ahhh…Clos du tart brings me good memories and I have even had the 2002 before. I don’t know what has happened??.… because this was a huge disappointment. There are notes of vitamin pills, gauze bandages – which sometimes are okay, if the wine has the edge to fit it in. Sadly that’s not the case here – as wine takes dark cherries onboard – almost blackcurrant or blackberries – revealing a wine, which plays a darker and heavier style of Pinot Noir, which I am not fond of. The taste is for sure young and shouldn’t be discarded yet – but again I found very little purity and drinking pleasure in this wine. A real shame.

(Caviar dish - loved it)

2001 Meo Camuzet “Vosne-Romanée Les Brulees”

When red Burgundy forms the shape of refined red tones I tend to smile. This is such a wine and luckily it’s also filled with solid level of life, which works together with notes of raspberry, herbs and overall light weighted sweet fruit sensations. The taste is beautiful defined – holding on to all the red components and expressing tight classic red Burgundy with delicious appeal to mind and palate. The last perfumes on the palate exude of beautiful sweet fruits and lovely mild spices. Stunning wine.

2000 DRC “Richebourg”

A seductive wine, which provided good flight competition to “Les Brulees” from Meo Camuzet. This wine goes a step further in deeper scented red fruits, which forms into overripe cherries, spices, cinnamon and tealeaves. Yet - being a wine, which also delivers juicy well drinking appeal - it doesn’t hold the same amount of tallness as “Meo”. You could say - if to push the analytic judgment - it’s a fraction too polished. Overall – I can’t see it lasting another 10 years and holding on to its current drinking pleasure. Still a beautiful wine, as it drinks so well right now.

Bonus wine donated by Ib

2009 Eduard Bryczek Morey St. Denis “Cuvée du Pape Jean-Paul II”

When this wine entered I really liked it, but as the temperature rises it took onboard some concerning elements. We have red fruit – which I will always applaud. In addition the fruit is juicy and sweet and even takes on an edge from a note of vitamin pills, which I know doesn’t sound appalling, but it worked rather okay. Yet – when it’s raised in temperature, the sweet notes forms the shape of simple vanilla flavours and it makes loose allure. Tasting it makes it even more troublesome as there are a lot of burned elements on the finish line. It’s a very young wine, which might gain more balance, but I have to be concerned of the grilled elements it showed on the last meters.

(2001 Meo Camuzet “Vosne-Romanée Les Brulees”)

Heat 4

1999 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie “Cuvée Belle Helene”

First thing I wrote on my paper was: “Very old-school type of wine”. What does this mean? Well a lot of things – but mainly returning to wine which plays more with power than elegance, which is always a loosing game for my palate. This wine boosted tons of oak with very little direction. The oak shields all traceable evidence of clarity and fresh fruit. When a wine doesn’t deliver some kind of drinking pleasure – no matter it’s DNA profile - I can seldom applaud it. Several tasters around the table filled the spittoon with more than half filled glasses of this 100 point wine – so this time I wasn’t alone on being pretty disappointed.

(2000 DRC “Richebourg”)

2001 Guigal, Cote Rotie “La Mouline ”

Again an explosive oak bomb, which gets some of its audience seduced with lots of sweet biscuits flavours, lacquer, white pepper and a combination of black/rasp-berries. The latter is something I like, but in this wrapping it’s not elegant, as the taste doesn’t posses that element of nerve, which could take this rather heavy oak driven wine from a quite boring stage. Not my kind of wine.

1999 Negly “Clos du Truffiers” from magnum…we are in Languedoc Roussillon

Yet another indifferent wine – which shapes like a million others – possessing no awareness…just a “style”, which storyboard is copy/paste, special effects and with no direction or thought. It’s an animalistic breed, which forms notes of pork, blackberries with approaches you with so much opulence that any kind of holding hand, dancing maybe and just getting to know each other is a dead end. Tasted it only once….and it’s just a totally indifferent wine.

2001 Guigal, Cote Rotie “La Landonne”

Nose and taste were quite different. The nose is polished again with sweet oak driven fruit and associations of animal fur. Taste is filled with tannins and tar, which takes purity, deliciousness and drinking pleasure significantly down. Overall a boring wine.

(Brilliant turbot dish)

Another Bonus wine donated by Ib entered….

2007 DRC “Richebourg”

I would have liked to spend some more time with this wine as it had a really interesting spice section, which constantly provided some new angels. My wingman nailed it to be DRC as he could detect the note of tea. To some degree I agree on that note, without being able to tell you what kind of tea it is. I also found notes of vitamin pills. It’s interesting that I liked this wine so much, as it doesn’t flirt with that red Burgundy fruit – but more meaty driven with black cherry stones and some tar elements. I think the reason is a splendid slim feel on the palate, were it lift itself on the drinking pleasure scale. Had is been alcoholic and dense – it would have been another matter. Very intellectual wine – which I would love to taste again in 10 years time.

The next flight was a disaster…

Flight 5

1997 Argiano, “Solengo IGT” (from Magnum)

A very herbal driven start – which can be a thrilling theme, as it’s such an attribute if it can posses fresh; thyme, rosemary or some other herb from the Tuscan kitchen. However here – those herbal notes are infused in a package, which also holds tight black fruits, marzipan and tons of tar, which at the end of the day makes both the overall wine and herbs smell dirty and old. Taste is horrible – dull, heavy and impure. One of the worst Italian IGT wines I have ever tasted.

1997 Castello di Rampolla, “Vigna d’Alceo”

To some extend takes on some of the same dilemmas as “Solengo”, but here the fruit is even more violent with a heavy load of black tar fruit and possessing no purity nor common appeal. With air and warmth in the glass, it goes even further into horror-land with the fruit starting to attract prunes and liqueur, becoming even more heavy and undrinkable. Shocking bad wine.

1997 Antinori “Solaia”

You know what – this wine might have been a fraction better than its flight rivals. But it’s the same theme. A Wine filled with black fruits, tar and overripe cooked fruit. There are no terroir – no awareness – no soul. Jesus Christ!!!

Shocking bad flight…needed some fresh air and a glass of water before the next flight….

(Disappointing Guigal)

Heat 6

2000 D’Abreu “Thorevilos”, Napa Valley, US

Another heavy loaded wine with a lot of burned flavours. Again – the level of oak is like a constant unpleasant tone in my head, only playing the same note over and over again. There are some distant appealing notes of pine needles, which blend together with the note of menthol. Unfortunately they are very raw and not appealing, as the wine is too alcoholic and not well drinking. A very boring wine.

2002 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

Okay…the nose is actually better here. Possessing some sort of other theme than just opulent fruit. There is a note of liver pâté, which I am not fond of – but!! It’s blended with a higher pitching note of mint, which I kind of like. It brings out some nerve, but still you have to be aware of that it’s actually a rather raw and young wine. Taste….ahhhrrrr…could be better. I missed clarity, but still you have the feeling that it’s actually a wine holding onto something, which could improve with cellaring. Fair wine.

(2007 Richebourg from DRC)

2002 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, US

So another 100 point wine , which these days tend to be heads up for something undrinkable. But hey – the nose is fairly all right. For sure there are some rather monotone blackcurrant notes, which also forms to vanilla flavours from the oak – but it’s a underneath sweet appeal, which makes it shine a bit more gentle in the glass. However!! – The taste is dreadful – violent, dense alcoholic monster. Despite a fair nose – it’s not a good wine and I don’t see any potential for it.

2001 Bond Melbury, Napa Valley, US

Here we go again. A wine set to impress with making as much noise as possible. Okay it’s fun to watch a movie with good special effects, but please let there at least be a good story or plot. This wine has intense raw level of blackcurrant and peppermint. The latter works together with menthol, which has it roots bound in the taste, which is an alcoholic breed, possessing zip deliciousness and drinking pleasure. Get a life.

(2001 Bond - beautiful label - sadly the wine is not good)

I think restaurant manager Jan Restorff noticed some of us suffered now and in came 9 glasses….

2009 Comte Liger-Belair “Clos du Château”

I haven't written any notes on this wine. But I remember it as a fresh breeze compared to 4 dense, heavy and dull wines in heat 6. I have tasted this wine is 2007 & 2008 vintage and completely adored it. The ’09 is also lovely, but it’s marked by its youth and slight brushes of warmth in both taste and warmth. Otherwise it’s the always-adorable polished style of Liger-Belair, which is so deadly seductive.

Dessert….Champagne…ahhhhh

2000 Gaston Chiquet “Special Club”

Dessert and Champagne…hmmmm…can work if we are in the Sec-section. But here it’s really difficult. Still the Champagne did a fine job, cleaning the taste buds after a bunch of horrifying wines, but also has some underneath not so pure spices, which was a challenge to the btw brilliant dessert serving.

(Seductive wine from Liger-Belair)

So dear readers - it wasn’t exactly a thrill to share this with you – especially giving so much critique to a friend good intention to throw a tasting. But I can tell you, that our host, Bent probably have roughly similar notes to mine (Though I think he liked the white Burgundy flight better than me). Bent told us he was happy to see his strategy of getting rid of the powerful high scoring wine and purchase more and more elegant stuff (Burgundy and Champagne)- was the right way forward. A strategy I can salute, though I am too poor to buy the Grand Cru’s of Burgundy. Luckily there are lots of alternatives out there.

Next up is a tasting of 20 Jura wines….I can promise you it will be more delightful…stay tuned to this frequency.

What else April & May 2011

All images are clickable and will open a larger format.

April and May has of course offered a good deal of Champagne due to Terre et vins de Champagne. But it’s also the coming of spring and now slowly summer, which adds even more Champagne and white wines. This is logical for most of us, but I recently noticed, while attending a tasting with US-reds, that I am increasingly very negative biased towards wine with strong alcohol profiles.

I have to be realistic about this and it seems kind of ridiculous to use this site to bash one after another of these types of wines. I simply don’t understand these wines anymore and should you be of another opinion you should probably look elsewhere for advice. Below are the wines I tasted during a US-tasting, which my very good friend Anders hosted. It should be noted; that I have tasted a fair amount of SQN wines and among those listed the SQN wines once again offered some sort of edge and allure, despite a violent strong and dense fruit core. I have even listed some Italian wines, which I also had a very hard time with. I don’t know if it’s appropriate to say that I feel worried, but thing is, I am getting more and more picky and wines that I use to love are now giving me a very hard time do a degree where I simply can’t drink them.

2004 Merryvale “Profile”, Napa Valley (Cabernet Sauvignon blend)

2005 Darioush “Signature” Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Chappellet “Pritchard Hill” /Cabernet Sauvignon, St Helena, Napa)

2004 Agartha (Syrah + a tiny bit of Grenache, marsanne, viognier & rousanne)

2006 Sine Qua Non – Raven, Santa Barbara, (syrah)

2007 Sine Qua Non Labels, Santa Barbara (syrah)

2006 Saxum Heartstone Vineyard, Passo Robles (Grenache, syrah og Mouverdre)

2008 K Vintners - The Creator (Cabernet og Syrah), Walle Walle, Washington

2008 K Vintners - Roma en Chamberlin (Cabernet & Syrah) Walle Walle, Washington

2008 K Vintners - The Deal (syrah) Walle Walle, Washington

2008 Gaja – Sito Moresco (nebiolo, barbera og CS)

2007 Gaja - Barbaresco (Nebiolo)

2001 Gaja Conteisa

2000 Gaja Sorí Tildin

2001 P. Scavino Barolo, “Bric del Fiasc”

(2004 L'Artiste)

But let’s focus on some of the interesting wines I have tasted – especially my Champagne encounters have been magnificent.

Champagnes:

2005 Vilmart “Grand cellier d’or”

Blend: 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir

Dosage: Not sure – but the 2004 vintage was dosed with 9 g/l

It’s not always right to compare….I think I have said that right? Sometimes the diversity is more interesting. Well….let’s see if I can navigate through my own rules, because this is a tricky one. You see, this wine was a starter to what lead to a rather crazy night where 4 happy people shared a good deal of Champagnes. Anyway….a good starter which secured instant pleasure with it’s rather seductive nose of vanilla, walnuts and spices. However, when the next wine was poured it collapsed in comparison. Suddenly it was too sweet and almost vulgar. Still let’s remember it for really fair laid-back drinking Champagne. So what was the next wine?....well…read the next tasting note.

2004 David Léclapart “L’Artiste”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged: Aug-2007

Dosage: 0 g/l dosage

Other: L’Artiste is made from 30-50 year old wines and ages half in steel and barrel

Since the bell rang for an open window on the ’04 “L’Artiste” I have had it 3 times and I sense that I will soon have drunk them all. This Champagne is simply mind-blowing stuff. It’s like a razor blade of minerals and it’s enters with so much soil energy and purity that you are completely blown away. It’s like a crystallized bath of seashells, baby banana and green apples. There is not much else to say about this Champagne – it’s a small masterpiece.

(2002 David Léclapart “L’Apôtre”)

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged: April-2006

Dosage: 0 g/l dosage
Other: L’Apôtre is a lieu-dit of La Pierre St-Martin with vines planted in 1946 and made only in oak.

It’s been a while since I have had the 2002 “L’Apôtre” and I consider most 2002’s out there rather closed. Still I took a change to open it and sadly it’s very shy and not all there yet, far from it. Still, I think there is some interesting information here. I remember asking David about the cellar potential of “L’Apôtre” and now begin to see that his guess of 25-35 years is more than likely. This Champagne is poised with soil almost wet rocks of soil energy and the raw side of it, is like taking a bite of the nature. I adore it for it’s style, but I have to remain patient, which is always a challenge for me.

(The neck of Billcart-Salmon)

1996 Billecart-Salmon “BdB”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Damn!!!...It’s not there yet. Still very shy and it’s like the fruit is covered with a fine film of milk. It has some flowery stuff and sweet vanilla pastry thing going on, but really not more than that. I have to recommend another 5 years of cellaring.

Jacque Selosse “Rosé” (twice – but different disgorgement dates)

I have had this twice and the “normal bottle” – disgorged 2^nd of February 2009 is with 7 g/l dosage and performed like it always does. It still fells like a big teddy bear – a real seductive breed, which I like, when I have it in companionship with food and friends (You can read a more detailed note here). The second bottle is the latest release and it’s disgorged the 26^th of November 2010 and has only 2 g/l of dosage. The wines feels much more fragile now, if you can say that about Selosse. It’s saltier, slimmer and despite the flavours is still turning towards strawberry, apricot and Asian spices; it has so much better balance. It almost feels like the Champagne isn’t blended with so much red wine, but that is just an assumption from my side. Anyway it’s the best Selosse rosé I have tasted.

(1999 Selosse Vintage)

1999 Selosse Vintage

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged 9th of January 2009

Dosage: I am not sure, but think its non-dosage

Bonus: Zero Sulfur

Can you ask for more? Well maybe, but if we stay in Selosse own universe, this is close to perfection. Despite having tasted it twice, this is by far the most impressive ’99 I have had. It’s a volcano of Selosse with quince, clove, honey and evening perfume. These notes are normal for Selosse and the taste is also a full-blown dense, waxy – almost creamy mouth feel. A Champagne of such a profile could easily fall into a category of vulgarity, but it’s poised with an enormous energy, which drives this powerhouse of a Champagne into a seamless presentation. WOW!!!!!!!

(Contraste)

NV Selosse “Contraste”

Blend: 100% Pinot Noir

Vintages: 2002 + 2003

Disgorged: 4th of February 2009

Maybe one of the final releases of Contraste, as the back label already gives information about the upcoming split of the two vineyards in Aÿ and Ambonnay from 2004 vintage and forward. So maybe a bit sentimental or just the fact that I was sharing this bottle with Champagne loving friends, because it turned out to be the finest Contraste I had ever tasted. The notes are typical Selosse or maybe we should say typical Contraste, because it’s deep and sensual Pinot Noir, which flirts with walnuts in layers of honey. The most adorable aroma was however the note of orange blossoms which took the complexity and seductive appeal into a heavenly stage. I think I have one single bottle of Contraste left in my cellar – I cross my fingers it’s from the same disgorgement date. Magical.

(Old Krug Rosé)

NV Krug “Rosé”

(Disgorged 1980)

Don’t ask me how I know it’s disgorged in 1980 – I don’t. My friend, who brought this bottle just, said it and the information might have been on the cork, because I couldn’t find anything on the bottle. Anyway – it makes good sense that it’s a really old bottle. It’s just on the verge of tilting over – fruit wise that is. However the funky tertiary aromas and a really vivid acidity had the ability to crank up the complexity and despite some emerging mould aromas on the nose, I overall really liked it.

('08 Prévost)

2008 Jérôme Prévost La Closerie “Les Béguines”

Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier

Dosage: 0 g/l

Being served after Selosse (The 1999 vintage) is never funny. But! Someone has to do it and I chose a former student of him; Jérôme Prévost. This is the second time I have this promising 2008 vintage and I think you have to pinch yourself in arm when having this – it’s that good my friends. These spices are so sophisticated and they take shape of aromas, which are so complex and impossible to fit into normality. You can detect some black cherries and a wicked note of licorice, but it’s so subtle and refined. The taste is still very tight, but you already have this remarkable sleek texture. It will be interesting to follow this ’08, but I think we have potentially the best Les Béguines here (so far that is).

2004 Bérèche Instant "Le Cran" Vintage

Blend: 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier

Dosage: 4 g/l??

I am not sure about the dosage in this bottle, as it was a sample, not the official release. However I suspect 4 g/l, like the official release of this Champagne.

Raphäel have really lifted his Champagnes into a level of weightlessness and lush fruit appeal, which brings them lots of allure. However, I have had my concerns about this Champagne – especially it’s level of vanilla from the oak as it joins forces with this level of dosage. However it’s like the balance point are correct and it’s typical Bérèche with adorable notes of apples, pineapple and baby banana.

(2004 "Le Chênes")

2004 George Laval “Le Chênes”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Dosage: 0 g/l

Disgorged: 20th of February 2009

On Paper I shouldn’t have served this Champagne, as we already had too much to drink. However I am glad I did it, because we only drank 3 glasses so there was a good excuse for me to have some more Champagne the day after.

It’s an unbelievable Champagne with an orgy of passion fruits; mango, kiwi and overripe peaches. I have sometimes found the overripe element too much in Laval’s wines, as they get anchored with biodynamic notes of wet hay. But I have to admit he is a producer I have to pay more attention to. In this 2004 there is nothing overripe despite these notes are heading towards this passion fruit thing. This Champagne completely took me by surprise by showing such remarkable class and sleek elegance. It’s seriously one of the most exquisite 2004’s I have tasted.

2002 Bollinger “La Grande Année Rosé”

Blend: 62% Pinot Noir (6% red wine from a parcel in Aÿ ) and 38% Chardonnay.

Dosage: About 8 g/l

After having spent a day with Cédric Bouchard, Benoît Tarlant and a quick stop @ Bérèche our last stop on this trip to Champagne was l'Assiette Champenoise, where we both stayed and had dinner at their ** Michelin restaurant. The food was rather good and probably the best place I have tried in Champagne. I missed a larger selection of grower Champagne on the rather expensive wine list, but it’s slowly coming I am being told. After so much grower Champagne I thought it could be fun to taste something from a big house producer and I was rather happy about my choice. Despite it’s holding a bit back (again a reserved 2002) it’s a solid good GA rosé. It’s classic Bollinger in terms of a sound concentrated style with deeper layers of red fruit. However Bollinger balances it out great with lighter breezes of flowery perfumes. At this stage I found the purity and definition lacking a bit behind in terms of what I had just tasted that day, but still it has lots of time ahead of it to stretch itself and gain more complexity.

Other Champagnes

There is seldom a month without my daily drinkers, which in most cases are Laherte “Brut Nature”, Laherte 2006 "Vigne d'Autrefois" (Much better on day 2…so cellar 2 years more), Tarlant Brut Zero (normal and Rosé….see a small video here) and the latest Benoît Lahaye Brut Nature (2008 base). All great and some enjoyed over 3 days and still showing remarkable freshness and delicious drinkability.

Whites:

2007 Fanny Sabre “Mersault Charmes”

Mersault is known to be fat, oily and buttery and if you kick in a good deal of oak you get a combo, which I not always a fan of. But in the hands of Fanny Sabre – a woman (maybe that’s it), you suddenly have a Mersault, which is shining with remarkable clarity and poised elegance. Sure you have some buttery components, but it’s more in the line of toasted bread and some smoky subtle sensations. There are additional fruits from melon and apples, which has companionship of straw and hay and all in all it’s adding to the complexity of the wine. The taste is fine vertical line with ends in a slim vivid finale. Loved it.

2009 Julien Altaber “Bourgogne”

I don’t have much information about this producer, which is completely new to me. Apparently there is a link to Derain and him. He has worked there, but if he still does it – I don’t know? First impression from the nose what nothing more than a simple table wine. Notes of melon, smoke, flowers, citrus and straw and a taste, which ends far too warm with a dull, polished structure. At this level – only it’s purity it worth mentioning, as it falls into yet another rather boring “Chardonnay”. However!...It took a turn, after an hour or so and really firmed up and became far more delicate and it’s purity was penetrating trough the layers and suddenly it wasn’t just another Chardonnay. Sadly it didn’t loose its polished structure, which prevented a real acidity smack. Still an okay wine and very fair priced.

Dönnhoff

2004 Riesling Spätlese “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany

Lovely – light, fresh with honey and peach. Taste is very vertical and it’s drinking so well.

2006 Riesling GG “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany

Very strange wine. Blends in some botrytis, yet it also has a raw side with this fennel thing on the nose. It ends in a combination of snaps and acacia honey. Not good – even on day 2 and 3 it was still completely out of focus.

2005 Riesling Auslese “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany (0,375cl bottle – tasted twice)

First time in late April it was served in Zalto Universal and here it performed the best. It’s seriously one of the best and most exquisite dessert wines I have had in a while. So lush, ripe, and intense - yet so ballerina light. Amazing drinkable stuff.

(Like that label and the wine is good too)

Reds:

2009 Vini Viti Vinci “Irancy”, Burgundy, France (100% Pinot Noir)

Well – looking at the label and tasting the wine got me in a good mood. The wine has a lovely instant and juicy red fruit appeal. Drinking incredible well at this stage and it could easily be one of those few reds I could consider drinking this summer.

2001 Poggio di Sotto “Il Decennale”, Tuscaly, Italy

This wine was dismissed by the DOGC as a Brunello di Montalcino due to a too light colour. Well, since the big fuss when it was released, it has actually gained some of its colour back. Brunello or not – it’s a beautiful wine, with a good deal of red fruit, refined spices and it’s a wine I loved for it’s tallness and delightful and intellectual style. Taste is solid Italian with clean, refreshing and fine tuned matching concentration to the package. Just a notch below Soldera’s Case Basse, but a great wine, with lots of cellar potential. Decanting is however required at this stage.

That’s what I remember….this might be the last post before the summer break, but I have a big Champagne tasting coming up tomorrow, so let’s see how much time I get.