Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Jura Tasting

(Our host, Lasse)

The wines from the Jura region continuous to intrigue me - and as I still see myself as a novice – I am constantly on the lookout to learn more.

1st of September such an opportunity came by as one of Copenhagen’s newest wine shops; Krone vin - hosted a Jura tasting. Behind Krone vin is Lasse Kruse Rasmussen which I have bumped into before as he was the sommelier @ the first restaurant Geranium in Copenhagen. Today you can still find the “spirit” of Lasse @ the new Geranium – as the wines from Krone vin is widely represented on Geranium’s wine list. Lasse are with 3 other wine pushers @ my local latitudes (Petillant, Rosforth & Rosforth and Lieu-dit) leading they way forward in badass biodynamic and Natural wines.

With this short introduction – I present the wines.


Domaine de L’Octavin “Cremant du Jura Blanc de Blanc”, Arbois

(L’Octavin are run by the couple Alice Bouvot og Charles Dagand and have since 2010 been certified biodynamic producers. Since 2009 – they stopped dosing their wines with sulphur – except this Cremant which they think find better balance with just a pinch)

One of the first notes I wrote was “bio” – which turned out to be correct. It was actually an association to the Champagnes of François Bedel, which had me comparing. It’s this funky tone of overripe fruit, creamy tones of milk-products and wet hay, which I find similar. I am not always a fan of this style as it’s taking some focus away from immediate freshness. However! – It’s without a doubt a wine, which spans widely to food pairing. Taste delivers good clarity; yet again this overripe style is present, which causes loss of springiness. Still a fair wine.

Domaine des Cavarodes “Cremant du Jura Blanc de Blanc”, Côtes du Jura

(Run by young Etienne Thiébaud who are in his mid-twenties and has been making wine since 2007. His philosophy is to make wine with as little intervention as possible. From 2012 he will be certified biodynamic producer. He has 4,5ha of land in the northern part of the Jura region. There are some very old vines here – up to 100 years old and you will even find ungrafted (pre-Phylloxeras) vines here. Terroir is mostly Kimmeridge chalk and clay.

I liked this wine more, as it had better freshness. It holds lovely yellow fruits – especially morello cherries and citrus fruits. On the taste it’s holding on to a marvellous clarity - yet missing some sort of material to posses more layers of complexity. Yet – I find it quite attractive. It does not possess the stuff Champagne are made of – yet still a solid appetizer or a great friend for a picnic.

Domaine Philippe Bornard “Pétillant Natural Tant Mieux”, Arbois Pupillin

(Philippe Bornard has some 27 years of experience in the wine industry by being employed in the big cooperative in Pupillin. During that period he also brushed of his big passion and hobby as a Rock musician. But in 2005 – strongly inspired by his good friend Pierre Overnoy (the Godfather of Natural wines), - he went “solo”. He makes wines from 6ha of land around the town of Pupillin and from 2012 he will be certified biodynamic producer. He makes wine with as little intervention as possible. Sulphur is only added at the bottling process to stabilize the transportation of the wines.)

One of the beauties of Natural wine is their ability to level with its audience. One of the easiest contact forms is humour, self-irony and the feel of an easygoing bohemia lifestyle. I love such wine – and I would categorize this wine to belong here. The “humour” of this wine is associations to a child birthday, with red lemonade and happy atmosphere and playfulness. This Pétillant wine holds delightful juicy tones of strawberries, rhubarb, cranberry and rosehip. Drinking exceptional well with newborn fresh fruit and very moderate alcohol (9.5%). I Imagine serving this wine for friends who expect “serious” big Champagne for a starter and get this…..I can already hear the remark: “What the hell is this”…but shortly after I’ll bet they will applaud it for it’s pleasurable qualities

(Philippe Bornard “Pétillant Natural Tant Mieux”)

Red wines

2009 Domaine des Cavarodes “Poulsard des Gruyéres”, Arbois
(Zero Sulphur)

Here I learned why the grape is sometimes called Poulsard or Ploussard. The latter is only to be used when it comes from Pupillin. So be careful – the producers are very sensitive on this ;-).

When you are attending big tastings you can’t help to be influenced by some of the remarks that goes on around the table. Here a lot of people applauded this wine. I was however a bit hmmmmmmm…. The reason was a fair amount of dry extract. The grape can sometimes be like that – I know, but it’s too stony, dusty and herbal. I missed some clarity. The taste is however really nice – floating, ballerina light and pleasurable. Overall a fair wine – but not something I was ecstatic about.

2008 Domaine Philippe Bornard “La Chamade / Ploussard”, Arbois Pupillin

Ahhhh…here we go. That red juicy appealing fruit – I am such an easy target. Still you have that dusty grape character hanging over the wine, but the companionship of sweet juicy red fruit - mostly raspberry perfumes – but also; moist forest and animal fur, takes it to dreamland. In addition you have a slight fine tuned oxidation and it’s adding to a pretty intimidating sexy touch. Served blind, this wine could easily pas for red Burgundy. The taste holds a magnificent delicious and juicy style. Brilliant wine.

2008 Domaine Philippe Bornard “Aide Memorie / Pinot Noir”, Arbois Pupillin
(Vines from 1950’ties)

Here the fruit is a fraction shyer and primary. It turns it a bit into “violet fruit”, which later turns to plums. Yet – at the last sip, the fruit had contracted again, revealing dryer components and dust. Taste is however nice – really pure with great mineral bite and a touch of the dried fruit. I would cellar this wine 2 years more.

2007 Domaine de L’Octavin “Don Giovani / Pinot Noir”, Arbois

More straightforward wine….almost classic, with divine tones of orange blossoms and dried red fruit elements. Taste is pretty tight, yet highly elegant. It doesn’t stretches itself fully – and uses too much time in the front of the mouth. Overall – still a good wine.

2010 Les Dolomies “Les Cabane / Pinot Noir”, Côtes du Jura

(Les Dolomies is a rising star, emerging from the southern part of Jura in the town of Passenans. Run by the couple Céline og Steve Gormally – but it’s Céline who is the winemaker. First vintage from was 2008 and they make wine from 4ha. of land – divided on 4 parcels in Passenans and Frontenay. From the beginning they have worked biodynamic and will be certified at the end of 2011. Be warned the allocation here in Denmark is almost nothing – so hunt like demons).

Outrageous deliciousness of the most juicy and freshly pressed red raspberry fruit explodes from the glass. It’s so sexy with newborn sweet sensorial fruit, which is like the violins in an orchestra and in behind you have the bass pumping notes of bicycle tubes to the rhythm. The taste is incredible fine, subtle, juicy again and it’s such a beautiful wine. WOW!!!

2010 Domaine de L’Octavin “Corvée de Trousseau, Les Corvées”, Arbois
(Zero Sulphur)

I believe it’s the first time I taste wine made from the “Trousseau” grape. It’s has a quite different character and somewhat disturbing compared to Les Cabane from Les Dolomies”. A very tight tone of nail polish, cherries, and red bell peppers makes it a bit angular. Taste is a bit better – very fine and mouth coating, but again teasing my senses again with this angular style as it doesn’t stretches fully. I am not sure I sort of understood this wine. Could be interesting to taste with some age.

2010 Les Dolomies “En Rollion / Trosseau”, Côtes du Jura

Second wine from “Les Dolomies” and I already sense, I am about to engage in a love affair. I can’t get enough of that sweet fresh fruit, which is here and with just a touch of oxidation, providing spectacular dancing weightlessness. The taste is soooooooo appetite, with that insane fresh and juicy fruit. Stunning wine.

2010 Domaine de La Cibellyne, “Les Orobanches” / Ploussard + Trosseau, Arbois

(This Domaine is run by Benoît Royer, which after some years of employment at Domaine de la Pinte started making wine in 2004. He has 4ha of land, but they are fairly widespread over the towns of Molamboz in northwest, Arbois to Buvilly and Poligny in the south of Jura. Though production is very limited, as he only yields around 20 hl/ha. Everything is done with as little intervention as possible and all wines are made ’ouillé’ (without oxidation), as Benoît feels the terroir is more genuine with this method).

Again some elements of nail polish (like the first time with the Trosseau grape), but this time it’s not as primary and with air takes more the shape of lacquer. There are a lot of “red” elements of fruit, but they are extremely tight (no doubt the note of lacquer also keeps it tight) and shapes into the note of rosehip. The taste continues this profile with notes of green bell peppers, which together with this very tight style provides a sophisticated spice window. Overall – this type of wine, is not my style – but I have to say I still felt curious and I think it has good potential.

(2010 Les Dolomies “Les Cabane / Pinot Noir”)

2010 Domaine de La Cibellyne, “Les Plosses” / Ploussard + Pinot Noir, Arbois

Very light coloured wine and another of these specimens with the red fruit elements (raspberry and bicycle tubes) – but it’s not bursting out of the glass like we saw it with Les Dolomies. Here it’s more refined – still juicy, but holding a little bit back. That actually provides some curiosity and it’s oddly (hard to describe) adding to the elegance of the wine. Taste has magnificent weightlessness and it’s just so gorgeous.

Then Lasse served us a solid rustic meal of Boeuf bourguignon, before we continued with the white wines.


2010 Domaine de L’Octavin “Cul rond la Cuisse rosé / Poulsard”, Arbois
(Zero Sulphur)

A wine I never really found myself attracted to. It’s however not a bad wine and it has notes of citrus, overripe yellow fruit and popcorn. Taste has a slight sparkle on the tongue but its overall dilemma is lack of nerve and it never really unfolds on the palate.

2009 Domaine des Cavarodes, Chardonnay, Arbois

Really funky stuff with a good portion of oxidation. Nose oozes of groovy yeast aromas, creamy cheesecake and vanilla. The taste is complete opposite – dry, subtle, chalky, and flirts with Vin Jaune. I liked it - but I don’t know if I am willing to fill my cellar with it – but could easily find a good spot for such a wine in a fun tasting event.

2009 Les Dolomies, “Les Combes” / Chardonnay”, Côtes du Jura

In complete contrast to the previous wine from Domaine des Cavarodes. Nothing but oxidized – but tight like an oyster shell. The minerals penetrate the entire wine with high profiled sour citrus notes, frozen steel and corn. Taste is rock hard with insane acidity (not for weak souls) and it’s not exactly charming at this stage. However it has tons of potential. Really interesting.

2010 Domaine de L’Octavin “Le Mailloche, Pamina; Arbois
(Zero Sulphur)

Bright wine, with crystal clear citrus and flowery elements. Very floating specimen, but also very shy. Taste…ahhhrrrr….I find something is missing here. Could have used more time with this wine.

(2010 Domaine de La Cibellyne, “Les Plosses”)

2007 Domaine Philippe Bornard, “Le Blanc de la Rouge / Chardonnay”, Arbois Pupillin

Good wine for sure, with tight blossom character and a taste with a pure mineral feel. However it’s very young and rather shy. I missed some sort of edge here – but hard to judge at this stage.

2008 Domaine Philippe Bornard, “Le Rouge Queue / Melon”, Arbois Pupillin

I am not that familiar with the Melon grape. What we have here is a more approachable wine –simply richer and fruit is more open, flirting towards exotic with primary notes of ripe peaches. Taste is solid anchored with a lovely rich feel and edge coming from secondary some spicy elements. Good wine.

2006 Domaine Philippe Bornard, “Les Chassagnes (*Ouille) / Savagnin”, Côtes du Jura
(*Filling of the barrel to prevent oxidation)

Intense stuff with notes flying in all kinds of directions. I sensed caraway, cheese whey and white pepper. Taste surprised me, as it shaped like a Riesling with freaking high acidity and mineral feeling of slate. I am not easily attracted to this type of wine, but I am slowly beginning to understand them. Overall….I marked it as interesting stuff.

2006 Domaine Philippe Bornard, “Les Marnes / Savagnin”, Côtes du Jura
(Zero Sulphur)

So not a Vin Jaune, as such a “thing” would need to cellar 7 years before release. But it’s close to Vin Jaune, yet also different, which turned out to be a supplement for the wine. The oxidation is of course rather apparent – yet it floats with a more delicate and vinous style, which I liked. You are almost begging for a Comté cheese to balance out that extremely dry and salty taste. Again – Vin Jaune and Sherry, will never be me – I don’t understand it….well, I thought, but I am slowly beginning to understand it, even though the process is slow…oh dear oh dear.

(2009 Les Dolomies, “Les Combes”)

Short conclusion:

Despite having clear favourites of the above wines, all of them delivered characters of subtleness and wines, which plays with genuine characters and high drinking pleasure. The Poulsard / Ploussard grape has hardly any tannins, so you get a lot of light weighted wines – miles away for some of the wines presented at the previous tasting on this blog. We also have to look at prices. At the previous tasting some of the wines reaches soaring prices in the range of 200 <> 450€. At this tasting we never came above 35€ and yet, it’s from this tasting I look forward to buy and taste some of the wines again.

It proves two things for me. 1) My palate has shifted dramatically and 2) Jura has now confirmed my curious excitement and I can’t wait to explore more.


Monday, September 12, 2011

A tasting with mixed emotions

(Our host, Bent)

(All image are clickable and will open a larger format)

On Saturday the 3rd of September my good friend Bent hosted another tasting at our favourite wine tasting joint – the always-striking good Søllerød Kro. You might begin to wonder if Søllerød Kro is the only restaurant we have here in Denmark. Luckily no – but it just happens it’s so convenient to have tastings there, as the restaurant can always adapt to whatever theme we have lined up and we always have our own private lounge.

But as you have seen at least 6-7 tasting reports from Søllerød Kro on this blog, I chose to rest the camera a bit and just shot some simple label images at the end of the tasting.

You are about to see quite critical tasting notes, which might make you think if I have lost it. I have given this a lot of thought - on how to present my negative reflections and it has to be the raw version, otherwise it makes very little sense to share different angels of a palate – as I believe there is not an official right or wrong. So please chime in, if you think my conclusions are the most ridiculous you have ever read.

But lets get right down to the action, as the start was excellent…all wines served blind.


NV Tarlant “Discobitch”

Lovely as always. A Champagne which brings forward a classic style of citrus and flowery components with underneath brushings of spice box and autolysis formation. If being overly critical you could say you end up chewing too much on these darker phrasings notes on the last meters – but yet the Champagne delivers an incredible mouth coating and juicy style. I loved it.

Heat 1

2006 Lilbert “Blanc de Blancs”

Lilbert is not entirely new to me. I have tested their basic Champagne over the summer and it’s Champagne, which requires some cellaring. This vintage version is unbelievable tight and very to judge. It only gives away some chalky and flowery impression. On the palate it feels rather hollow on the mid-palate and leaves very small data to analyze from. We shall see again in 5-7 years.

2002 Philip Gonet “Belemnita”

This fairly limited release from Philip Gonet is a beautiful specimen. Really expressive on the nose it instantly took the spotlight in this flight. Notes were; Banana, hay, overripe peaches and milk. Taste is powerful, juicy, lush and extremely giving. Brilliant stuff and a rather open 2002 – even though it will easy last another 10 years.

(The one and only Discobitch from Tarlant)

2006 Chartogne-Taillet “Les Barres”

A slow starter – but also a start with some concerns of way too high-pitched notes of lilies flowers. The Champagne was not in full balance – but after 15 minutes it found both balance and enormous amount of energy. From the glass rose bio driven notes of baby banana, citrus, blackberries and really sophisticated spice section. Knowing its Pinot Meunier it’s really one of the most refined versions I know of this grape. Fantastic.

Ps. I have to say I prefer my Champagne in bigger glasses than those provided here – the classic Spiegelau Authenthis….not a bad glass, but it has it’s limits.

Heat 2

It felt like I was the only dull person in this white-Burgundy party/ flight. I don’t really get the greatness of white Burgundy – especially when I compare it against Champagne…which I know is kind of stupid…so be aware of this….the table loved this flight.

1999 Domaine Leflaive “Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon”

Needed some air to get rid of some weird spicy notes, which some first thought was sulphur. Otherwise it’s “classic” with white flowers and apples and a rather stony expression. Taste has solid level of clarity and chalkiness, but it just falls into a category of thousands of other wines and therefore looses a lot of character I think.

(2006 Les Barres - image from Terre et vins 2011)

2002 Etienne Sauzet “Batard Montrachet”

It was discussed whether this bottle was off or not. Problem was a rather evolved style – compare to it flight revivals. Anyway – it started okay’ish if you were looking for seduction and the lowest cleavage of the flight. Sexy stuff, with funky deep scented vanilla flavours, melted butter, evening perfume and a very oily style of wine. The taste was quite different – actually posses some tallness from high minerality and a poised acidity. However with warmth – the party was definitely over and the wine completely collapses and obtained more and more creasy notes of sweet bubblegum, which also turned against the taste. Not nice.

2002 Domaine Leflaive “Batard Montrachet”

As with “Clavoillon” – it needed some time to get rid of some weird notes. When having unfolded – which took some time IMHO…and especially warming up in the glass was a big contributor – it possessed notes of apples, lime and popcorn. There was also a very fine and subtle toned spice section – such as smoke and resin, which all together was giving the wine more complexity. However – and despite easily being the best wine of this flight, there is not much emotional stuff going on inside me…the wine is too technical correct IMHO…but I guess that’s my white Burgundy dilemma.

(2002 Domaine Leflaive “Batard Montrachet”)

Heat 3

Time for red wines

2002 Louis Jadot “Bonnes Mares”

Strange wine, which at no point delivered some kind of clarity. The fruit is dusty, muddy, herbal and with some dark bitter chocolate components lurking in the background. Taste can’t save it – same stuff going on here and it’s simply lacking fresh fruit.

2002 “Clos du Tart”

Ahhh…Clos du tart brings me good memories and I have even had the 2002 before. I don’t know what has happened??.… because this was a huge disappointment. There are notes of vitamin pills, gauze bandages – which sometimes are okay, if the wine has the edge to fit it in. Sadly that’s not the case here – as wine takes dark cherries onboard – almost blackcurrant or blackberries – revealing a wine, which plays a darker and heavier style of Pinot Noir, which I am not fond of. The taste is for sure young and shouldn’t be discarded yet – but again I found very little purity and drinking pleasure in this wine. A real shame.

(Caviar dish - loved it)

2001 Meo Camuzet “Vosne-Romanée Les Brulees”

When red Burgundy forms the shape of refined red tones I tend to smile. This is such a wine and luckily it’s also filled with solid level of life, which works together with notes of raspberry, herbs and overall light weighted sweet fruit sensations. The taste is beautiful defined – holding on to all the red components and expressing tight classic red Burgundy with delicious appeal to mind and palate. The last perfumes on the palate exude of beautiful sweet fruits and lovely mild spices. Stunning wine.

2000 DRC “Richebourg”

A seductive wine, which provided good flight competition to “Les Brulees” from Meo Camuzet. This wine goes a step further in deeper scented red fruits, which forms into overripe cherries, spices, cinnamon and tealeaves. Yet - being a wine, which also delivers juicy well drinking appeal - it doesn’t hold the same amount of tallness as “Meo”. You could say - if to push the analytic judgment - it’s a fraction too polished. Overall – I can’t see it lasting another 10 years and holding on to its current drinking pleasure. Still a beautiful wine, as it drinks so well right now.

Bonus wine donated by Ib

2009 Eduard Bryczek Morey St. Denis “Cuvée du Pape Jean-Paul II”

When this wine entered I really liked it, but as the temperature rises it took onboard some concerning elements. We have red fruit – which I will always applaud. In addition the fruit is juicy and sweet and even takes on an edge from a note of vitamin pills, which I know doesn’t sound appalling, but it worked rather okay. Yet – when it’s raised in temperature, the sweet notes forms the shape of simple vanilla flavours and it makes loose allure. Tasting it makes it even more troublesome as there are a lot of burned elements on the finish line. It’s a very young wine, which might gain more balance, but I have to be concerned of the grilled elements it showed on the last meters.

(2001 Meo Camuzet “Vosne-Romanée Les Brulees”)

Heat 4

1999 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie “Cuvée Belle Helene”

First thing I wrote on my paper was: “Very old-school type of wine”. What does this mean? Well a lot of things – but mainly returning to wine which plays more with power than elegance, which is always a loosing game for my palate. This wine boosted tons of oak with very little direction. The oak shields all traceable evidence of clarity and fresh fruit. When a wine doesn’t deliver some kind of drinking pleasure – no matter it’s DNA profile - I can seldom applaud it. Several tasters around the table filled the spittoon with more than half filled glasses of this 100 point wine – so this time I wasn’t alone on being pretty disappointed.

(2000 DRC “Richebourg”)

2001 Guigal, Cote Rotie “La Mouline ”

Again an explosive oak bomb, which gets some of its audience seduced with lots of sweet biscuits flavours, lacquer, white pepper and a combination of black/rasp-berries. The latter is something I like, but in this wrapping it’s not elegant, as the taste doesn’t posses that element of nerve, which could take this rather heavy oak driven wine from a quite boring stage. Not my kind of wine.

1999 Negly “Clos du Truffiers” from magnum…we are in Languedoc Roussillon

Yet another indifferent wine – which shapes like a million others – possessing no awareness…just a “style”, which storyboard is copy/paste, special effects and with no direction or thought. It’s an animalistic breed, which forms notes of pork, blackberries with approaches you with so much opulence that any kind of holding hand, dancing maybe and just getting to know each other is a dead end. Tasted it only once….and it’s just a totally indifferent wine.

2001 Guigal, Cote Rotie “La Landonne”

Nose and taste were quite different. The nose is polished again with sweet oak driven fruit and associations of animal fur. Taste is filled with tannins and tar, which takes purity, deliciousness and drinking pleasure significantly down. Overall a boring wine.

(Brilliant turbot dish)

Another Bonus wine donated by Ib entered….

2007 DRC “Richebourg”

I would have liked to spend some more time with this wine as it had a really interesting spice section, which constantly provided some new angels. My wingman nailed it to be DRC as he could detect the note of tea. To some degree I agree on that note, without being able to tell you what kind of tea it is. I also found notes of vitamin pills. It’s interesting that I liked this wine so much, as it doesn’t flirt with that red Burgundy fruit – but more meaty driven with black cherry stones and some tar elements. I think the reason is a splendid slim feel on the palate, were it lift itself on the drinking pleasure scale. Had is been alcoholic and dense – it would have been another matter. Very intellectual wine – which I would love to taste again in 10 years time.

The next flight was a disaster…

Flight 5

1997 Argiano, “Solengo IGT” (from Magnum)

A very herbal driven start – which can be a thrilling theme, as it’s such an attribute if it can posses fresh; thyme, rosemary or some other herb from the Tuscan kitchen. However here – those herbal notes are infused in a package, which also holds tight black fruits, marzipan and tons of tar, which at the end of the day makes both the overall wine and herbs smell dirty and old. Taste is horrible – dull, heavy and impure. One of the worst Italian IGT wines I have ever tasted.

1997 Castello di Rampolla, “Vigna d’Alceo”

To some extend takes on some of the same dilemmas as “Solengo”, but here the fruit is even more violent with a heavy load of black tar fruit and possessing no purity nor common appeal. With air and warmth in the glass, it goes even further into horror-land with the fruit starting to attract prunes and liqueur, becoming even more heavy and undrinkable. Shocking bad wine.

1997 Antinori “Solaia”

You know what – this wine might have been a fraction better than its flight rivals. But it’s the same theme. A Wine filled with black fruits, tar and overripe cooked fruit. There are no terroir – no awareness – no soul. Jesus Christ!!!

Shocking bad flight…needed some fresh air and a glass of water before the next flight….

(Disappointing Guigal)

Heat 6

2000 D’Abreu “Thorevilos”, Napa Valley, US

Another heavy loaded wine with a lot of burned flavours. Again – the level of oak is like a constant unpleasant tone in my head, only playing the same note over and over again. There are some distant appealing notes of pine needles, which blend together with the note of menthol. Unfortunately they are very raw and not appealing, as the wine is too alcoholic and not well drinking. A very boring wine.

2002 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

Okay…the nose is actually better here. Possessing some sort of other theme than just opulent fruit. There is a note of liver pâté, which I am not fond of – but!! It’s blended with a higher pitching note of mint, which I kind of like. It brings out some nerve, but still you have to be aware of that it’s actually a rather raw and young wine. Taste….ahhhrrrr…could be better. I missed clarity, but still you have the feeling that it’s actually a wine holding onto something, which could improve with cellaring. Fair wine.

(2007 Richebourg from DRC)

2002 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, US

So another 100 point wine , which these days tend to be heads up for something undrinkable. But hey – the nose is fairly all right. For sure there are some rather monotone blackcurrant notes, which also forms to vanilla flavours from the oak – but it’s a underneath sweet appeal, which makes it shine a bit more gentle in the glass. However!! – The taste is dreadful – violent, dense alcoholic monster. Despite a fair nose – it’s not a good wine and I don’t see any potential for it.

2001 Bond Melbury, Napa Valley, US

Here we go again. A wine set to impress with making as much noise as possible. Okay it’s fun to watch a movie with good special effects, but please let there at least be a good story or plot. This wine has intense raw level of blackcurrant and peppermint. The latter works together with menthol, which has it roots bound in the taste, which is an alcoholic breed, possessing zip deliciousness and drinking pleasure. Get a life.

(2001 Bond - beautiful label - sadly the wine is not good)

I think restaurant manager Jan Restorff noticed some of us suffered now and in came 9 glasses….

2009 Comte Liger-Belair “Clos du Château”

I haven't written any notes on this wine. But I remember it as a fresh breeze compared to 4 dense, heavy and dull wines in heat 6. I have tasted this wine is 2007 & 2008 vintage and completely adored it. The ’09 is also lovely, but it’s marked by its youth and slight brushes of warmth in both taste and warmth. Otherwise it’s the always-adorable polished style of Liger-Belair, which is so deadly seductive.


2000 Gaston Chiquet “Special Club”

Dessert and Champagne…hmmmm…can work if we are in the Sec-section. But here it’s really difficult. Still the Champagne did a fine job, cleaning the taste buds after a bunch of horrifying wines, but also has some underneath not so pure spices, which was a challenge to the btw brilliant dessert serving.

(Seductive wine from Liger-Belair)

So dear readers - it wasn’t exactly a thrill to share this with you – especially giving so much critique to a friend good intention to throw a tasting. But I can tell you, that our host, Bent probably have roughly similar notes to mine (Though I think he liked the white Burgundy flight better than me). Bent told us he was happy to see his strategy of getting rid of the powerful high scoring wine and purchase more and more elegant stuff (Burgundy and Champagne)- was the right way forward. A strategy I can salute, though I am too poor to buy the Grand Cru’s of Burgundy. Luckily there are lots of alternatives out there.

Next up is a tasting of 20 Jura wines….I can promise you it will be more delightful…stay tuned to this frequency.