The tasting

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(Notebook are ready - hit me)

Saturday the 11th of June I had the pleasure to thrown my wine club a decent tasting. We had the whole day @ Søllerød Kro, which is almost like coming home for most of my guests and me. It’s with pleasure, I repeat myself when I say how well Søllerød Kro once again performed and how restaurant manager Jan Restorff, like no other, can be the perfect host.

The tasting was divvied in two simple sessions. First a lunch serving with 21 bottles of Champagne…just to clean the taste buds ;-). The first session was also an attempt to conduct a concentrated blind tasting, which is not always easy with these guys, as they just want to relax and have fun. The blind guessing was there to eliminate people’s prejudices about old vs new and the increasing debate about dosage or the lack of it. I think it worked well and it was fun to see how the level of dosage was a subject in flight 1 & 2 and then no one really paid attention to it.

In the second session for the dinner, I wanted us to relax, so after the lunch serving and a 45-minute stroll in the beautiful surroundings, I revealed the line-up for the dinner.

It turned out my guest thought we were short on bottles and went treasury hunting in Søllerød Kro’s cellar – not that we were exactly thirsty – but still I didn’t stop them ;-).

Here is the line-up and a short description of the wines:

(Jan Restorff)

Intro – outside in the beautiful weather:

2004 Bérèche “Instant Le Cran” (55% CH, 35% PN, 10% PM – Dosage 4 g/l)

It didn’t performed like last time I had it, where it was singing. As a starter you notice how oak and dosage collide a bit. It’s taking its friskiness and focus a notch down and I would have liked some food. My mistake.

Heat 1

Nv (Solera) Laherte “Les Clos” (*7 grapes - 0 g/l dosage)

* 18% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier, 8% arbanne, 15% petit meslier,17% Pinot Blanc and 10% fromenteau

I chose Les Clos to match the freshness and lime appeal of the first dish. Sadly this bottle of Les Clos was herbal (mostly black tea) and so shy. First time I experience this with Les Clos.

2007 Demarne-Frison (50 CH, 50% PN - 0 g/l dosage)

It shined and did what I hoped it would do. Sensorial vivid sweetness of yellow fruits and a vibrant clean-cut mineral finished. I loved it – so did the table.

(Classic Søllerød dish)

Heat 2

2008 Cédric Bouchard ”Les Ursules” (100% Pinot Noir - 0 g/l dosage)

Magical bottle of Champagne, with currant perfumes and notes of black cherries- all wrapped up in a sleek corset of elegance and raciness. Probably the best Les Ursules I have tasted so far.

2006 Cédric Bouchard ”Les Ursules” (100% Pinot Noir - 0 g/l dosage)

Sadly corked. I replaced it with

2000 Tarlant “Vigne d’Antan” (100% Chardonnay – 2 g/l dosage)

Despite being the blind passenger here and clearly showing it’s the only Champagne in this flight made from oak….and of course from a quite different terroir - it revealed a remarkable rich and creamy character. Yet once again it’s also a Champagne with a racy soil footprint of sandy spiciness. I can think of very few of the released 2000’s, which I like more than this.

2005 Cédric Bouchard ”La Bolorée” (100% Pinot Blanc - 0 g/l dosage)

Tough choice….that is to choose between 2008 Les Ursules or this Champagne as the winner of this flight. I think “Les Ursules received the most applauds – however for me there is something incredible and insane about this La Bolorée, which just makes me adore it even more. The 2005 La Bolorée is really ahead of its aging-curve, compared with the 2006 vintage, showing churned buttery components topped with ginger and exotic fruits. Stunning Champagne.

(Anders - or "Svenne or "Borgmesteren")

Heat 3

2004 David Léclapart ”L’Artiste” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

2004 Agrapart ”Vénus” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

I have tasted these Champagnes a few times already this year – you can find detailed notes here and here.

However let’s just compare them. Both remarkable pure Champagnes with bright chalky appeal and also two Champagnes with a floating style. Yet, Artiste is rawer and it shows clear signs of it’s birth in half in oak, half in enameled steel, where “Vénus” is only made in oak. Vénus presents itself creamier, toasted and friendlier - yet I have to admire Artiste for it’s bright flavours of mint and frozen iron, which sets off an outrageous energy. I couldn’t pick a winner here – loved them both.

Heat 4

2003 David Léclapart ”L’Apôtre” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

Flawed.

2004 Cédric Bouchard ”La Haute-Lamblée” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

Cédric Bouchard had already dazzled the table and I had a good feeling this one wouldn’t disappoint either. It’s miraculous Champagne and almost against the odds with 2 year old vines supplying this adorable, fragile Champagne, which is filled with, candied citrus, flowers, oregano and morello cherries (just before they are ripe). The acidity is of clarifying Chablis character with immensely tallness and elegancy. Magnificent Champagne.

2004 George Laval ”Les Chênes” (100% Chardonnay - 0 g/l dosage)

Have just tasted it and have very little to add. Note is in this post – it’s magic Champagne with an orgy of passion fruits served into a sleek corsage.

(Spiegelau Adina glasses)

Heat 5

2006 Béreche Instant Rosé (55% CH, 40% PN, 5% PM - 0 g/l dosage)

2004 Cédric Bochard ”Le Creux d’Enfer Rosé” (100% Pinot Noir - 0 g/l dosage)

2008 Prevost Fac- Similie Rosé (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

I chose to serve Béreche Instant Rosé a few minutes before I served the next two, as I feared it’s fragile style would die in comparison. But I made a mistake here, as I hadn’t studied hard enough, as I was under the belief the next two rosé Champagne both was saignée. But no – Prévost Fac-Similie is in fact an assemblage.

Anyway it’s 3 stunning rosé Champagne, but still very different. Bérèche are indeed fragile with its salty red berry fruits. I can never get tired of this Champagne, but as I have tasted it 6-7 times now in it’s youth I would like to see what layers it will put on with cellaring.

“Le Creux d’Enfer” is better when you have it alone (see that note here). Here it stands out too much as it’s sooo bone dry and particular. It didn’t really unfold as I have hoped it would do and this is the second time I have it in a big line-up where it didn’t deliver as it did when I had it home alone.

Prèvost has made a stunning rosé in 2008. Just the colour is breathtaking – a mixture of Strawberry red and salmon. It’s what I would call a really sensual rosé with a round and pleasing appeal, where the oak is delivering this charming look. However don’t be fooled, as it has yet another dimension where it’s able to lift itself to a fragile and subtle stage with terrific elegancy.

Heat 6

2008 Jerome Prevost (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

2006 Jerome Prevost (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

2006 Chartogne-Taillet ”Les Barres” (100% Pinot Meunier - 0 g/l dosage)

Many of my guests had never imagined Pinot Meunier could reach such kind of quality, which was right in front of us.

The 2008 Prévost is one hell of a devilish Champagne, which still is in its youth, but the level of fruit in this 2008 is really impressive and then these sophisticated spices, which even takes on the aroma of orange peel. Taste is creamy concentrated and with sleek elegance

The 2006 are more about honey and slightly oxidation patterns coming forward with the oak playing the drums in the background. In comparison the 2008 is almost of scary quality – but the 2006 is also divine Champagne.

Then comes Les Barres and I take on a new dimension of Pinot Meunier. You have again sophisticated spices, but also blackberries combined with a bright flowery and citrus sparkle. It takes Les Barres higher in energy and freshness. Unbelievable good Champagne. WOW!!!

Bonus Champagne donated by Mads.

A very raw Champagne, which I always associate with David Léclapart – and in most cases L’Artiste, which proved to be correct (yes…I actually guessed something right). Vintage…well here we guessed a bit wrong – it turned out to the 1999, which was the debut release from David. It’s demanding Champagne, with this raw style of straw and freezing iron, which gives some darker fruits phrasings. Still I am familiar with this kind of Champagne and I really loved it.

(Claus Lyster)

Heat 7

1996 Selosse (100% Chardonnay – 0 g/l dosage)

A Champagne I have always put on a pedestal as being one of the most impressive I have tasted and perhaps the best 1996 there is. It’s the first time we saw notes classic Champagne in terms of autolysis aromas. I think it’s holding back a lot on the nose, where it doesn’t unfold to the same intensity it had in it’s youth. It’s still impressive stuff with a very rich and lush taste which goes in the direction of vanilla flavours from the oak, honey and quince.

1996 Salon (100% Chardonnay - ? dosage think 5-6 g/l)

I have tasted this Champagne twice and have always loved it – but it’s been a while since we spooned. To cut it short, it’s really disappointing. It flirts with classic lime / flower – which reminds me of a Danish ice cream called “Champagnebrus”. Then comes the note of sulphur, which makes the journey very hard for me to continue. It goes like it always does with sulphur – the Champagne or wine losses energy and becomes flabby and dull.

I know that Salons track record is deadly impressive and one shouldn’t rule out long shy phases – but here and know it falls completely out of focus in terms of what had been served so far.

(So good food)

Heat 8

1988 Selosse (100% Chardonnay)

I have saved this Champagne for a special occasion and thought it was time to serve it. Don’t get me wrong guys, I would actually have loved to spend some more time with it (and more than 1-2 glasses), as it seems like it had several layers it didn’t have the time to release. At first nosedive I thought the oak was pretty dominant, but then it puts on a new dimension of fresh floral awakening and apple scents. The taste is overwhelming intense with a pretty high acidity. Really nice.

1988 Salon (100% Chardonnay)

I always loved the ’88 Salon. I think it was a panel splitter. Sadly I couldn’t see its beauty as the mid-core reveals over the hill fruit. Maybe not a representative bottle – it shouldn’t show itself this tired.

P A U S E

(Claus Holst)

Dinner

Heat 9

1996 Bollinger GA (magnum)

Bollinger seldom disappoints and in magnum it should have been a home run. But NO!!!...My God, what a boring bottle. First time my sweet spot is challenge and I perceived it as too high dosed as it makes the Champagne loose tallness. I even noticed the note of sulphur, but it was only small – but still not adding anything positive. The notes where classic Champagne with walnuts, dark bread and caramel. Overall –and Pardon my French – but what a crap bottle.

Heat 10

1996 Krug Vintage

So now it can’t go wrong – Krug is the God of big House Champagne. Nope – no luck here either, but it’s still better than Bollinger and Salon. You sense Krug’s immensely concentration, but unfortunately it’s covered with darker fruits patterns and spices, which lacks definition, purity and overall makes it heavy. Last time I taste this Champagne was in May-2010 and it was singing – so I could speculate if we were dealing with a closed bottle. Maybe – maybe not, it wasn’t impressive.

1996 Pol Roger Winston Churchill

So far the dinner hadn’t been that successful and sadly Winston couldn’t get the party started. It’s a very “dark” Champagne. Had I been able to include dark and mysterious it would have been great, but we have again sulphur and then it gets tricky for me. Notes was something like walnuts in cheese combo, not exactly something which is know to kick off freshness and energy. The taste is very soft and polished – pleasing for some maybe, but to me rather dull.

Let’s get some red wine.

Heat 11

(All Case Basse was just opened when we arrived with no decanting)

2004 Soldera, Brunello ”Case Basse Riserva”

1999 Soldera, Brunello ”Case Basse Riserva”

1983 Soldera, Brunello ”Case Basse Riserva”

Case Basse is the best Italian wine there is - end of case…and don’t sue me, you won’t win ;-).

The 2004 vintage is a miraculous offering and easy the best young Brunello I have ever tasted. Think of what you want in an Italian wine (red fruits has to me among your dreams) and you will have it here. It has tons of fresh red fruit embalmed in the finest Tuscan herbs with new saddle leather and smoky tobacco. The taste has the exceptional curl with a rather volatile acidity but it’s adding to the friskiness of the wine. WOW!!!!...and Thank you Holst for your donation.

The worst thing about the 1999 was to be in this line-up. It’s a solid good wine, but it has lost the fresh red fruit and deals with dryer elements, which turns the wine more smoky and reserved. The taste is seriously concentrated with this high-pitched acidity.

So again we meet my darling. This is the fourth time I have tasted the 1983 Riserva and it’s my last bottle. It’s sooooo good my friends. With absolutely no aging signs whatsoever. It’s actually closer to the 2004 than the 1999 as the red fruits are also here – not young and smooth though, but saltier, more subtle, dryer and with so much finesse. The taste is every Italian wine lowers hottest dream with so much warmth soul and class. Will I ever taste it again?

(Dan)

(Lobster...fantastic dish)

(Mads)

Heat 12

2001 Voerzio Barolo ”Cerequio”

Not bad, but sadly too soft a style of Barolo for me. The oak turns it too a bit too charming, warm and polished.

2001 Sandrone Barolo ”Cannubi Boschis”

Corked

Replaced with a bottle donated by my good friend Anders;

2001 Altare Barolo “Brunate”

Very stylish stuff, despite absolutely no decanting time. It had a teasing note of plum, which sometimes tricks me to go off toward too high alcohol, but that wasn’t the case here and with air it gets companionship of the most adorable note of roses. Taste is very refined and curls beautifully. Very good.

2001 Aldo Conterno Barolo ”Granbussia”

Granbussia also deals with plums, but they are pretty sensual driven and sweet and it’s really hard not to be swept away with its style. I started to write on my paper if in fact were too polish, but sometimes you just have to let go and enjoy it for it’s great drinking pleasure.

Overall I think the Barolo flight here worked fair – I think Case Basse had made it’s impression and it was like we had taken a few gears down.

(Max)

(Bent P. - we are having fun)

Heat 13

1996 Jacquesson ”Vauzelle Terme Aÿ” (100% Pinot Noir)

It’s getting a bit hard to focus this late. I remember this as a pretty intense thing. My notes says, dark Pinot, honey, quince and a bit aggressive on the oak. But it’s also a Champagne which is in pretty good balance despite it’s really intense. Solid Champagne with good potential.

NV Egly-Ouriet ” Blancs de Noirs Vieilles Vignes” (100% Pinot Noir)

Very soft, oily and missing energy….but okay it’s late.

Bonus red wines: Donated by Max, Dan and Mads...are you nuts!!!!,but thanks

2008 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belail “Aux Reignots”, Burgundy, France

All I have tasted from this producer has made me smile. This wine might be a bit polished, but who really cares when it’s drinking this well. We are dealing with incredible sexy Pinot Noir – but fruit wise leaning towards blackberries, soft plum and this elastic smooth appeal both in nose and mouth. It curls so sexy and has so much allure. I wish I could afford this stuff….DAMN!!!

2006, Georges Roumier Chambolle-Musigny “les Amoureuses”, Burgundy, France

Classic Burgundy with red cherry fruit, yet also rather spice driven. I would liked to have spent some more time with it in order to get the red fruit more in front of the spices….if possible? Still a lovely and impressive wine.

2006 Jean Foillard “Pi 3.149”, Beaujolais, France

A real teaser this late. “Trick” worked – the table (me included) went for Burgundy with very delicate mixture of kirsch and plums. A wine which drinks exceptional well with so delicate and fresh fruit appeal.

("Guldbamsen")

Some thoughts…mostly the Champagnes

The day after such a tasting you fell rather miserable. When my brain starts to work again, I digest through all those many wines. Often I get a text or one of the guys calls and you take the journey once again. Geeky – but it’s a part of sharing wines with likewise geeks and I love it. Then another friend calls…and so on….the wife is rarely impressed.

Anyway.... most times I often get the question, which one did you like the best? I can’t answer, because I don’t see it like that. Maybe “La Haute-Lamblée”, “Les Barres”, “Les Chênes” was the best ones (that was some of peoples’ favourites), but to take out "Venus", "L’Artiste", "Selosse vintage", "Prévost" or even"Demarne-Frison" or "Bérèche Rosé"…help!!!...etc, seems almost ridiculous and like amputating a patient, which is not sick. I couldn’t live without these wines in my cellar and they all have something to offer.

The big house Champagnes (Oh no...that debate again) really disappointed me – or was it just a confirmation of what I already knew? First of all – I have always some sort of skepticism of concluding from one glass tastings – even more when it comes to Champagne. Secondly, the big houses where also pretty much outnumbered by the growers in this line-up. Thirdly; the vintages vs small and big were too far off to really call it a battle and it wasn’t what I wanted for this tasting. Fourthly – some of these Champagnes have impressive track records and are able to cellar for a long time - so long shy phases can't be ruled out.

However (there is always a however….)

Not once were the poise, purity and nerve in favour of Bollinger, Pol Roger, Salon or Krug.

One of my guest; Bent – who were rather sceptical vs some of these small growers two years back said: “The big houses more or less taste the same – the have the taste of “Champagne”. The growers are very individual with strong personalities". I agree completely and I have over and over mentioned how important diversity is to me – without it, it becomes one tone, one substance and then I am out.

I will of course respond to the comments there will be after this post – but this is the last post before the summer break. I will be back late August or early September. There is a big tasting on the 3^rd of September ,which I think will be mostly red Burgundy – so that might be the first report.

Take care, drink well and have a great summer.

What else April & May 2011

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April and May has of course offered a good deal of Champagne due to Terre et vins de Champagne. But it’s also the coming of spring and now slowly summer, which adds even more Champagne and white wines. This is logical for most of us, but I recently noticed, while attending a tasting with US-reds, that I am increasingly very negative biased towards wine with strong alcohol profiles.

I have to be realistic about this and it seems kind of ridiculous to use this site to bash one after another of these types of wines. I simply don’t understand these wines anymore and should you be of another opinion you should probably look elsewhere for advice. Below are the wines I tasted during a US-tasting, which my very good friend Anders hosted. It should be noted; that I have tasted a fair amount of SQN wines and among those listed the SQN wines once again offered some sort of edge and allure, despite a violent strong and dense fruit core. I have even listed some Italian wines, which I also had a very hard time with. I don’t know if it’s appropriate to say that I feel worried, but thing is, I am getting more and more picky and wines that I use to love are now giving me a very hard time do a degree where I simply can’t drink them.

2004 Merryvale “Profile”, Napa Valley (Cabernet Sauvignon blend)

2005 Darioush “Signature” Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Chappellet “Pritchard Hill” /Cabernet Sauvignon, St Helena, Napa)

2004 Agartha (Syrah + a tiny bit of Grenache, marsanne, viognier & rousanne)

2006 Sine Qua Non – Raven, Santa Barbara, (syrah)

2007 Sine Qua Non Labels, Santa Barbara (syrah)

2006 Saxum Heartstone Vineyard, Passo Robles (Grenache, syrah og Mouverdre)

2008 K Vintners - The Creator (Cabernet og Syrah), Walle Walle, Washington

2008 K Vintners - Roma en Chamberlin (Cabernet & Syrah) Walle Walle, Washington

2008 K Vintners - The Deal (syrah) Walle Walle, Washington

2008 Gaja – Sito Moresco (nebiolo, barbera og CS)

2007 Gaja - Barbaresco (Nebiolo)

2001 Gaja Conteisa

2000 Gaja Sorí Tildin

2001 P. Scavino Barolo, “Bric del Fiasc”

(2004 L'Artiste)

But let’s focus on some of the interesting wines I have tasted – especially my Champagne encounters have been magnificent.

Champagnes:

2005 Vilmart “Grand cellier d’or”

Blend: 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir

Dosage: Not sure – but the 2004 vintage was dosed with 9 g/l

It’s not always right to compare….I think I have said that right? Sometimes the diversity is more interesting. Well….let’s see if I can navigate through my own rules, because this is a tricky one. You see, this wine was a starter to what lead to a rather crazy night where 4 happy people shared a good deal of Champagnes. Anyway….a good starter which secured instant pleasure with it’s rather seductive nose of vanilla, walnuts and spices. However, when the next wine was poured it collapsed in comparison. Suddenly it was too sweet and almost vulgar. Still let’s remember it for really fair laid-back drinking Champagne. So what was the next wine?....well…read the next tasting note.

2004 David Léclapart “L’Artiste”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged: Aug-2007

Dosage: 0 g/l dosage

Other: L’Artiste is made from 30-50 year old wines and ages half in steel and barrel

Since the bell rang for an open window on the ’04 “L’Artiste” I have had it 3 times and I sense that I will soon have drunk them all. This Champagne is simply mind-blowing stuff. It’s like a razor blade of minerals and it’s enters with so much soil energy and purity that you are completely blown away. It’s like a crystallized bath of seashells, baby banana and green apples. There is not much else to say about this Champagne – it’s a small masterpiece.

(2002 David Léclapart “L’Apôtre”)

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged: April-2006

Dosage: 0 g/l dosage
Other: L’Apôtre is a lieu-dit of La Pierre St-Martin with vines planted in 1946 and made only in oak.

It’s been a while since I have had the 2002 “L’Apôtre” and I consider most 2002’s out there rather closed. Still I took a change to open it and sadly it’s very shy and not all there yet, far from it. Still, I think there is some interesting information here. I remember asking David about the cellar potential of “L’Apôtre” and now begin to see that his guess of 25-35 years is more than likely. This Champagne is poised with soil almost wet rocks of soil energy and the raw side of it, is like taking a bite of the nature. I adore it for it’s style, but I have to remain patient, which is always a challenge for me.

(The neck of Billcart-Salmon)

1996 Billecart-Salmon “BdB”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Damn!!!...It’s not there yet. Still very shy and it’s like the fruit is covered with a fine film of milk. It has some flowery stuff and sweet vanilla pastry thing going on, but really not more than that. I have to recommend another 5 years of cellaring.

Jacque Selosse “Rosé” (twice – but different disgorgement dates)

I have had this twice and the “normal bottle” – disgorged 2^nd of February 2009 is with 7 g/l dosage and performed like it always does. It still fells like a big teddy bear – a real seductive breed, which I like, when I have it in companionship with food and friends (You can read a more detailed note here). The second bottle is the latest release and it’s disgorged the 26^th of November 2010 and has only 2 g/l of dosage. The wines feels much more fragile now, if you can say that about Selosse. It’s saltier, slimmer and despite the flavours is still turning towards strawberry, apricot and Asian spices; it has so much better balance. It almost feels like the Champagne isn’t blended with so much red wine, but that is just an assumption from my side. Anyway it’s the best Selosse rosé I have tasted.

(1999 Selosse Vintage)

1999 Selosse Vintage

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged 9th of January 2009

Dosage: I am not sure, but think its non-dosage

Bonus: Zero Sulfur

Can you ask for more? Well maybe, but if we stay in Selosse own universe, this is close to perfection. Despite having tasted it twice, this is by far the most impressive ’99 I have had. It’s a volcano of Selosse with quince, clove, honey and evening perfume. These notes are normal for Selosse and the taste is also a full-blown dense, waxy – almost creamy mouth feel. A Champagne of such a profile could easily fall into a category of vulgarity, but it’s poised with an enormous energy, which drives this powerhouse of a Champagne into a seamless presentation. WOW!!!!!!!

(Contraste)

NV Selosse “Contraste”

Blend: 100% Pinot Noir

Vintages: 2002 + 2003

Disgorged: 4th of February 2009

Maybe one of the final releases of Contraste, as the back label already gives information about the upcoming split of the two vineyards in Aÿ and Ambonnay from 2004 vintage and forward. So maybe a bit sentimental or just the fact that I was sharing this bottle with Champagne loving friends, because it turned out to be the finest Contraste I had ever tasted. The notes are typical Selosse or maybe we should say typical Contraste, because it’s deep and sensual Pinot Noir, which flirts with walnuts in layers of honey. The most adorable aroma was however the note of orange blossoms which took the complexity and seductive appeal into a heavenly stage. I think I have one single bottle of Contraste left in my cellar – I cross my fingers it’s from the same disgorgement date. Magical.

(Old Krug Rosé)

NV Krug “Rosé”

(Disgorged 1980)

Don’t ask me how I know it’s disgorged in 1980 – I don’t. My friend, who brought this bottle just, said it and the information might have been on the cork, because I couldn’t find anything on the bottle. Anyway – it makes good sense that it’s a really old bottle. It’s just on the verge of tilting over – fruit wise that is. However the funky tertiary aromas and a really vivid acidity had the ability to crank up the complexity and despite some emerging mould aromas on the nose, I overall really liked it.

('08 Prévost)

2008 Jérôme Prévost La Closerie “Les Béguines”

Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier

Dosage: 0 g/l

Being served after Selosse (The 1999 vintage) is never funny. But! Someone has to do it and I chose a former student of him; Jérôme Prévost. This is the second time I have this promising 2008 vintage and I think you have to pinch yourself in arm when having this – it’s that good my friends. These spices are so sophisticated and they take shape of aromas, which are so complex and impossible to fit into normality. You can detect some black cherries and a wicked note of licorice, but it’s so subtle and refined. The taste is still very tight, but you already have this remarkable sleek texture. It will be interesting to follow this ’08, but I think we have potentially the best Les Béguines here (so far that is).

2004 Bérèche Instant "Le Cran" Vintage

Blend: 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier

Dosage: 4 g/l??

I am not sure about the dosage in this bottle, as it was a sample, not the official release. However I suspect 4 g/l, like the official release of this Champagne.

Raphäel have really lifted his Champagnes into a level of weightlessness and lush fruit appeal, which brings them lots of allure. However, I have had my concerns about this Champagne – especially it’s level of vanilla from the oak as it joins forces with this level of dosage. However it’s like the balance point are correct and it’s typical Bérèche with adorable notes of apples, pineapple and baby banana.

(2004 "Le Chênes")

2004 George Laval “Le Chênes”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Dosage: 0 g/l

Disgorged: 20th of February 2009

On Paper I shouldn’t have served this Champagne, as we already had too much to drink. However I am glad I did it, because we only drank 3 glasses so there was a good excuse for me to have some more Champagne the day after.

It’s an unbelievable Champagne with an orgy of passion fruits; mango, kiwi and overripe peaches. I have sometimes found the overripe element too much in Laval’s wines, as they get anchored with biodynamic notes of wet hay. But I have to admit he is a producer I have to pay more attention to. In this 2004 there is nothing overripe despite these notes are heading towards this passion fruit thing. This Champagne completely took me by surprise by showing such remarkable class and sleek elegance. It’s seriously one of the most exquisite 2004’s I have tasted.

2002 Bollinger “La Grande Année Rosé”

Blend: 62% Pinot Noir (6% red wine from a parcel in Aÿ ) and 38% Chardonnay.

Dosage: About 8 g/l

After having spent a day with Cédric Bouchard, Benoît Tarlant and a quick stop @ Bérèche our last stop on this trip to Champagne was l'Assiette Champenoise, where we both stayed and had dinner at their ** Michelin restaurant. The food was rather good and probably the best place I have tried in Champagne. I missed a larger selection of grower Champagne on the rather expensive wine list, but it’s slowly coming I am being told. After so much grower Champagne I thought it could be fun to taste something from a big house producer and I was rather happy about my choice. Despite it’s holding a bit back (again a reserved 2002) it’s a solid good GA rosé. It’s classic Bollinger in terms of a sound concentrated style with deeper layers of red fruit. However Bollinger balances it out great with lighter breezes of flowery perfumes. At this stage I found the purity and definition lacking a bit behind in terms of what I had just tasted that day, but still it has lots of time ahead of it to stretch itself and gain more complexity.

Other Champagnes

There is seldom a month without my daily drinkers, which in most cases are Laherte “Brut Nature”, Laherte 2006 "Vigne d'Autrefois" (Much better on day 2…so cellar 2 years more), Tarlant Brut Zero (normal and Rosé….see a small video here) and the latest Benoît Lahaye Brut Nature (2008 base). All great and some enjoyed over 3 days and still showing remarkable freshness and delicious drinkability.

Whites:

2007 Fanny Sabre “Mersault Charmes”

Mersault is known to be fat, oily and buttery and if you kick in a good deal of oak you get a combo, which I not always a fan of. But in the hands of Fanny Sabre – a woman (maybe that’s it), you suddenly have a Mersault, which is shining with remarkable clarity and poised elegance. Sure you have some buttery components, but it’s more in the line of toasted bread and some smoky subtle sensations. There are additional fruits from melon and apples, which has companionship of straw and hay and all in all it’s adding to the complexity of the wine. The taste is fine vertical line with ends in a slim vivid finale. Loved it.

2009 Julien Altaber “Bourgogne”

I don’t have much information about this producer, which is completely new to me. Apparently there is a link to Derain and him. He has worked there, but if he still does it – I don’t know? First impression from the nose what nothing more than a simple table wine. Notes of melon, smoke, flowers, citrus and straw and a taste, which ends far too warm with a dull, polished structure. At this level – only it’s purity it worth mentioning, as it falls into yet another rather boring “Chardonnay”. However!...It took a turn, after an hour or so and really firmed up and became far more delicate and it’s purity was penetrating trough the layers and suddenly it wasn’t just another Chardonnay. Sadly it didn’t loose its polished structure, which prevented a real acidity smack. Still an okay wine and very fair priced.

Dönnhoff

2004 Riesling Spätlese “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany

Lovely – light, fresh with honey and peach. Taste is very vertical and it’s drinking so well.

2006 Riesling GG “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany

Very strange wine. Blends in some botrytis, yet it also has a raw side with this fennel thing on the nose. It ends in a combination of snaps and acacia honey. Not good – even on day 2 and 3 it was still completely out of focus.

2005 Riesling Auslese “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany (0,375cl bottle – tasted twice)

First time in late April it was served in Zalto Universal and here it performed the best. It’s seriously one of the best and most exquisite dessert wines I have had in a while. So lush, ripe, and intense - yet so ballerina light. Amazing drinkable stuff.

(Like that label and the wine is good too)

Reds:

2009 Vini Viti Vinci “Irancy”, Burgundy, France (100% Pinot Noir)

Well – looking at the label and tasting the wine got me in a good mood. The wine has a lovely instant and juicy red fruit appeal. Drinking incredible well at this stage and it could easily be one of those few reds I could consider drinking this summer.

2001 Poggio di Sotto “Il Decennale”, Tuscaly, Italy

This wine was dismissed by the DOGC as a Brunello di Montalcino due to a too light colour. Well, since the big fuss when it was released, it has actually gained some of its colour back. Brunello or not – it’s a beautiful wine, with a good deal of red fruit, refined spices and it’s a wine I loved for it’s tallness and delightful and intellectual style. Taste is solid Italian with clean, refreshing and fine tuned matching concentration to the package. Just a notch below Soldera’s Case Basse, but a great wine, with lots of cellar potential. Decanting is however required at this stage.

That’s what I remember….this might be the last post before the summer break, but I have a big Champagne tasting coming up tomorrow, so let’s see how much time I get.