Sunday, October 6, 2013

Alcohol – how low can you go?

One of the most fascinating things about wine is not only discovering how complex the subject are, but also how you interact with wine and how your taste evolves over time. One of the things I have discovered is how I relate to high and low alcohol wines. My personal taste has for a long time shifted towards wines with less alcohol. But my appreciation for lower % and wines with more finesse seems to be in line with a permanent shift in taste. Even Eric Asimov from The New York Times reports: “of a slight shift in taste in the United States, the proverbial pendulum swing, from heavy wines of power to lighter wines of greater finesse”.

It has always been tricky to navigate around the subject of alcohol level. The risk of just another trench warfare discussion about numbers has always been present. Such a debate will always try to set a threshold number what’s acceptable and take it from there. The discussion is in addition a one-way thread – focussing only on high numbers or have you ever heard anyone wanting more alcohol is their Moscato d’Asti or German Spätlese?

Picking wines from a %-level is like label checking a piece of clothes and not buying it because it wasn’t the right brand. Snobbery at worst – maybe even prejudices, dogmatic and sacred will often be the first reaction towards those who didn’t focus what was actually “inside”.

Mostly the discussion finds its compromise by concluding that the numbers in itself has little meaning, if the wine were in “balance”. 

But what does balance actually mean?

It means that high alcohol wines can work and you will see taster’s saying that no burning or heat was felt. So end of discussion – or? In my opinion the balance argument is flawed because it’s just another individual opinion and not a very complex parameter.

“The wine worked for you – but it didn’t work for me”.  

Temperature is also critical for high alcoholic wines and the overall drinking pleasure. I don’t know about you, but some years ago every wine concluding argument in my own backyard was always related to some pompous tasting event. The event was a race with points, notes, ridiculous amount of bottles and blue teeth. Nowadays I see a far more diverse landscape, where we have shifted from tasting wine at these tastings events, to drinking wine at home. This has changed the concept of “balance” for me. A good wine has to provide drinking pleasure – not matter what. The criteria for success are quite simple; the next sip just has to be better and better. Often such wines are characterized by you wish there was more left in the bottle when you have finished it.

So how did this start?

Well it all started quite innocent by falling in love with cool tempered wines. It was a desire for finesse and not power. Red Burgundy was one of the first discoveries for me, but financial wines I felt myself a bit distant from these expensive offerings. So I discovered German Spätlese, but despite providing great finesse I found it difficult to use these wines with everyday food. Next on my route was Champagne and today my greatest love affair. Champagne is a phenomenal drink. Incredible with food, great finesse and always ranged between 12% <> 13% alcohol. From there I have taken a big journey into natural wine. Natural wine have learned me a great deal about my perception of wine and really rocked my boat.  One of the many things I can take out of this journey, have been how low alcohol wines have proved to be a key element to drinking pleasure. It’s interesting to see how your taste buds starts to reform when you have so many low alcohol wines and I can’t help to compare it with how I saw the same pattern some 6-7 years ago when I started to drink Non dosage Champagne. When first addicted – some “Brut” Champagnes was suddenly appalling sweet. The same side affect has happened again, as I am now far more sensitive against high alcohol wines.

And I am not alone. Everyone of those I has shared wine with over the past 10-15 years are moving in the same direction.

So today – when I buy wines – yes admitted, I “label check”. What’s the alcohol level?  Above 14,5% and it’s 95% a no go. I can make a few exceptions when especially referring to a Barolo. They are often in this high end, but somehow they can balance at this point. But I need food with Barolo – I can’t just drink them alone…and it doesn’t really hurt when I think of a beautiful risotto and Barolo  

But overall I prefer wines in the range of 11% <> 13% and 90% of the wines I drink are in this range.

I think low alcohol wines are “the new black”. It will be more than a trend, because when you have first learned to appreciate the light weighted finesse of these wines, you want more and you will never ever go back to heavy dull and clumsy blockbuster wine. 

What do you think?

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Memories from a lunch


Emmanuel Lassaigne (Champagne Jacques Lassaigne)
Dominique Moreau (Champagne Marie Courtin)
Nicholas Vauthier (ViniVitiVinci)
Grégoire Perron (La Combe aux Rêve)

Narrated in images - enjoy.

 Emmanuel Lassaigne (Champagne Jacques Lassaigne)

 Dominique Moreau (Champagne Marie Courtin)
 Grégoire Perron (La Combe aux Rêve)
 Nicholas Vauthier (ViniVitiVinci)

Saturday, June 8, 2013

Brief tweets from my Facebook page…

Here what’s going on my FB page…in no specific order….join in.

Not many people know Yann Durieux – believe me that will change. I have posted about him before in “The new Elvis” but as I have just had the 2010 ”Les Grands Ponts” (again... two times in fact.... within the last two weeks) I thought it was okay to post again (I couldn’t really resist anyway)…blew my mind once again…ouch!!! warned – addictive wine!!!.

Had the 2006 Instant No.1 rosé from Bérèche yesterday. It's so unbelievable good. It’s the kind of rosé Champagne, which doesn’t make that much noise, but really plays a very understated role with fragile and delicate dried red berries. The best Champagne Raphaël Bérèche has ever made IMHO.

Pretty interesting wine. From La Vigne du Perron - 2011"La Serène Blanche" - 100% Roussette (altesse)...production is extremely low

I had the 2006 “L’Amateur” from David Léclapart this evening. Now this might be old news, but it’s just perfect right now. It’s kind of ridiculous to talk about an entry-level wine, because it’s so much more than an average Champagne.
I’ve noticed something….David’s Champagnes become quite classic with cellaring. “L’Amateur” ’06 have started to embrace some autolysis character, providing some complex underlying drum and bass to the rhythm. Yet it’s still young in terms of tallness and energy. Sure it can cellar – but why wait? I will finish my case within the next year or so and will imagine every bottle to be as good as this one.

Curiosity in wine is very important to me. Even better is when you discover wines where you can actually say; “I have never tasted anything like this before”. It’s rare that it happens – and when it does it’s not necessarily positive. Right now I am drinking a wine, where I can actually say those lines and in addition it’s fuc***** crazy wine. The nose is filled with ripe late harvest apple juice, pineapple, mango, wild yeast, touch of vanilla and orange blossom. It’s one hell of a lively thing and the taste is very elastic and exotic too with some spices on the finish line. Completely nuts man!!!!... As you can see the label looks like something Spock from Star Trek designed…and from what I know it’s a local grape called  ZibibboProducer is Grabrio Bini and we are on the Island of Pantelleria located 100 km south west of Sicily. Soil is of course volcanic. Vines are +50 years old, biodynamic grown, picked and destemmed by hand. It’s *orange wine (*skin contact or macerated if you wish) – long and slow (don’t know how long) but vinified in clay amphora’s dating back to the 17th century. Unfiltered – no additions – no So2. WOW!!!

I think I’ve found my summer white. The talented Arianna Occhipinti continues to win my heart. Her red “Il Frappato” is easily my favourite Italian daily drinking wine and this wine might not be the most complex breed, but it drinks so well. The 2012 SP68 Bianco is made from Albanello & Zibibbo ((moscato d'alessandria). Vinyard is located in 280m above Sea level and terroir is red sand with chalk from sub- Apennine limestone. The wine sees 15 days of skin contact and you would think it’s sensual tropical fruit aromas derives from barriques, but it only spends 6 months in steel tanks and one year in bottle. The wine is summer and sun - happy moments with elderflower, mango and pineapple. Taste is very elastic, free and utterly juicy. Irresistible stuff.

Tonights wine - I have tasted it two times already. 2011 "Les Damodes" from Frederic Cossard. It's absolutely gorgeous. I hope to write something on the blog on Cossard...if I have the time.

While I process all the images from Terres et vins de Champagne – I can share some brief impression of some of the other wines I remember having tasted. The wine in the glass are: 2006 Voeutte et Sorbée “Saignée de Sorbée”


2006 Voeutte et Sorbée “Saignée de Sorbée”

Not good on opening with an almost aggressive iron, spicy, Campari attack and evn a tannic finish. After half an hour it calms down and the notes sort of dries out, becomes far more interesting – especially the spice section, revealing a more salty expression. One on side, I find it to be an impressive Champagne with quite a character and soil bite, but on my emotional frequency there is a bit of a conflict.

2006 David Léclapart “L’Amateur”

Absolutely beautiful. Maybe not as divine fruit driven as the ’08, but so well build and structured. Drinking perfectly now.

2006 David Léclapart “L’Apôtre”

Somewhat bombastic, but with enormous potential – wait.

2007 Jérôme Prévost “Fac-Simile rosé”

Really surpriced me as I was expecting a far more aged and oxidized Champagne by now. But it’s almost like it has firmed up. The ’07 are really elegant and light and has this dried out herbal line, like verbena – which I really like. Really nice.

NV Selosse “VO”.

Three times From three different disgorgements (2010, ’11 and one from ’08). I preferred the ’10 disgorgement, which felt more focused. There are several TN on this site on this
Champagne and I always like it.

NV Selosse “Rosé” (Disgorged in 2011)

Great that Selosse have taken the dosage down to only 4 grams now. Takes away some of the fatness, sweet pastry notes and makes this Rosé far more salty and firm. Don’t get me wrong it’s still Selosse style, but carries the boldness far better.

NV Selosse “Aÿ La Côte Faron” – (’03 base)

Super concentrated style and easy to guess “Selosse” (I guessed Contraste) with late harvested honeyl, overripe peach, quince and burned caramel. Maybe a fraction more spinal firmness was needed, but I would guess that’s the result of ’03 base.


2001 Domaine Belluard “Les Alpes” )from Savoie made from 100 % Gringet)

Third time I try this really interesting white wine, which could easily be a candidate for my preferred spring/summer drink. I could best describe it as a mixture of Rieslings fruitiness and high acidity, but it also takes onboard the Traminer grape notes with ginger and licorice. There is an underlying base of cool straw freshness and it’s a very linear wine.

2005 Didier Dagueneau “Silex”

Spectacular racy wine and served with a Asian inspired raw tuna dish made by my good friend Claus...miraculous match and seriously focused wine. Love it.

2011 Domaine des Miroirs (Jura) “Berceau 2011 / Chardonnay)

Really clean and racy and mineral wise reminding me slightly of Alexandre Jouveaux – just in a slimmer version. I will have to taste it again.


2009 Jean Foillard “Cote du Py”

I have some issues with the ’09 in Beaujolais – it’s too hot, out of balance and this bottle was really dissapointing.

2006 San Giusto a Rentennano “Percarlo”

Coming on a bit too clumsy at first, with way too much burned oak, but with a couple of hours of decanting it started to shine. It’s still what I would call a modern Sangiovese, but so smooth, well balanced and still Italian with lovely notes of leather. Tasted without food, but I’ll bet it would have been even better with food.

2011 Domaine des Miroirs (Jura) “Ja-Nai 2011 / Poulsard”

The color is just outrageous on this one – so light red, almost transparent. The visual treat are in synch with a beautiful and weightless wine (very low alc), combining red fruits, rhubarb and notes of wet autumn leaves. Loved it. 

2010 Ganevat “Cuvée Julien”

I love this wine – so brilliant.

1989 Pichon-Baron

Tasted with good friends. Really fun to have a journey back in “wine-time”…and I can only say read my “Varible no. 32B” on the blog….the wine in itself, analyzes solely from a hard core point of view was really not that great. Dry, square and lifeless.

2006 SQN “Raven”

You can smell and do a few “ooohhhss and ahhhsss” and find it simply fascinating that wine can also be like this. You can even conclude that SQN is not only high-octane wine…some around the table called it “cool tempered” and although that’s taking it a bit far for my palate, I know what they mean. But! – you can’t drink it…or I couldn’t. There is nothing here making me come back for more – the density is still too violent.

Have recently tasted both ’05 and ’06 Blanc d’Argile – two very different Champagnes.

The ’05 have begun to develop traditional autolysis notes with deeper walnut and nutty flavours. Yet this troublesome (typical ’05) rotten potato note is also present. The oak profile is also quit dominant.

The ’06 are a different story. Quite bombastic opening – really intense with raw structure. Evolved beautiful in the glass and the last third revealed a ravishing soil intensity and purity. From ’06 is seems like the oak is far better balanced and only a secondary chord and not the whole orchestra.

Weekend wines…

2009 Demarne-Frison “Lalore” Brut Nature

A Champagne filled with citrus and flowery components. Feels too young at this stage, but has a very fresh and pure profile. The last glass was by far the best.

2008 Bérèche “Rive Gauche” Extra Brut (3 g/l dosage)

Incredible refined Pinot Meunier with enormous acidity bite. Really sophisticated freshness, yet with a deeper and darker fruit baseline. Can easily be enjoyed now, but a couple of years in the bottle should bring these darker phrasings into an even more refined level.

2004 David Léclapart “L’Apotre”

Scary intensity and incredible raw Champagne without any fuzz whatsoever. Doesn’t feel closed, nor does it feel really open – but somewhere in-between. I would give it some more time, simply to balance its bombastic footprint. It has everything it takes to age another 15-20 years.

2010 Domaine Dublére “Volnay Les Pitures”

Incredible sexy and smooth Pinot Noir. Ripe and juicy with an almost sweet liquorices appeal. You can argue whether it’s a fraction too polished and oak dominant, but selling at this reasonable price and drinking really well in good friends company, I didn’t found much reason to complain.

2008 Philippe Pacalet “Chambolle Musigny”

Also incredible charming wine, with classic Pinot tonality. It leans toward a more polished style with a fair amount of oak influence. However I found additional deeper layers and it’s simply so juicy and easy to drink.

Saturday, May 25, 2013

2013 Terres et Vins de Champagne

Click the images and a larger and better resolution viewer will open

(“Les Alliés” from Chartogne-Taillet)

(Vincent Laval)
(Alexandre Chartogne)
(Benôit Lahaye - charming as always)
(Dominique Moreau)
(Tarlant - Benôit Tarlant)
(Olivier Paulet)

The 5th edition of Terres et vins de Champagne took place on Monday the 22nd of April 2013.

It’s my third time there and I can’t help to make some kind of comparison of how the event has evolved over the years.

Some things remain the same, like the location at Goutorbes cosy Hotel Castel Jeanson in Aÿ – and always on a Monday in mid-April.  Of all the years I have participated the weather have also been brilliant with the flowering spring - cool and crisp air…not really hurting your Champagne taste buds. The menu also holds the same friendly and passionate wine makers– even more enthusiastic than ever this year. They present their vins clairs from the latest harvested year (this year 2012) and often their Champagne clones in the current release. Once again also a year where Terres et vins de Champagne adds another producer – and this year two actually with Vincent Laval (Champagne Georges Laval) and Marie-Noëlle Ledru. If this continues the cosy courtyard of Hotel Jeanson will be too small for future events.

The number of attending Champagne lovers have however exploded over the years and grower Champagne are hotter than ever before, especially outside France. Despite these producer are some of the most humble and hospitable people I have met, they have had to limit the event to 400 professionals…so you might ask what the hell this drunken Danish blogger are doing there? I am not even that serious when I am there – compared with people running around with laptops and taking notes on site. What I try to do, is first of all say hello to the producers and just finding out how they are doing. Then ask about their vins clairs to see if I can find a similar pattern or in fact a producer are deviating from consensus are why that is? Then I taste without notes, but when I have tasted everything I scribble a few headlines in my notebook (which is green btw and handmade). After I have tasted, what I can cope with, I fetch my camera. When it comes to shooting images, I am probably the most geeky one there and have a camera, which has the weight of the Eifel Tower. It feels almost ridiculous sometimes compared with better and better phone cameras, which within a split second can tweak images in Instagram and share them online. 

(Alexandre Chartogne - "AMEN")
(Françoise Bedel)
(Elodie Pouillon - wife of Fabrice Pouillon)
(David Léclapart)
(Aline Serva from Au Bon Manger)

But let’s get going.

2012 vins Clairs - overall

A lot of producers had early concerns about 2012 and in general described the year as really particular or extreme.  Cold winter with February hitting minus 17-20 Celsius. Spring followed and it was really wet and even included a deadly hailstorms across the region. Summer was nothing to write about either, before  a 10 day window in August occurred – and once again extreme, with temperatures hitting as high as 40 degrees Celsius. The August window was sent from heaven and seemed to have saved the harvest. Yet the yields are really low in 2012 - everyone will have less to offer - some up to 60% lower production.  Despite I am getting better and better at tasting Vins Clairs it’s not always easy. I do however think the overall quality of 2012 was pretty good – some even outstanding like Agrapart and Laval.

Champagnes…and forgive me for not having everyone included….everyone has something to offer.

I always start with Laherte. It’s a tradition and it just makes me in such a good mood to say hello to Aurélien Laherte. His simple "BdB Brut Nature" are a must in every Champagne lovers collection and it’s often one of those Champagnes I pick whenever I don’t really know what I want to drink, because it delivers a simple, pure and a honest expression of Champagne.  I am also eagerly impressed with his "Les Empreintes", which is a more complex breed, but still holding Laherte trademark of delivering really kicking freshness.

As already mentioned, Pascal Agrapart presented a spectacular set of 2012 vins clairs. His Champagne releases was represented by his traditional Chardonnay-trio of; "Minéral", "Avizoise" and "Vénus" in 2007 vintage. Overall I find the 2007 vintage charming (by the few things I have tasted), fresh and light, but probably a vintage that will end up being sort of in between the intense ’06s and the supernatural ’08s. However Pascal Agrapart level is insanely high and these wines are so pure and precise. Minéral is clean as its name, Avizoise is exotic with pineapple fruit appeal and Vénus is intellectual and tight, but one hell of a chalky and blessed Bdb Chamapagne.

Dominique Moreau (Champagne Marie-Courtin) was next and on paper it might not have been the right choices turning directly from the chalky expression of the Côte des Blancs directly to the Côtes des Bar. Maybe that was the reason why I found her 2012 vins clairs lacking some tallness compared with Agrapart Samurai Sword. Her Champagnes are on the other hand lovely and just a reminder how diverse Champagne are and what the Côtes des Bar has to offer. "Résonance" are a lovely entry level, but "Efflorscence" offers more Pinot Noir raciness and present itself more balanced. The "Eloquence" is a Chardonnay offering (2008 present), which I have tasted 2 times before and I love it for its bright and intense acidity driven appeal. I will however cellar my bottles a couple of years to see if it’s young lime and citrus appeal can attract a some deeper and sensual Chardonnay character.

Raphaël  Bérèche presented his Chardonnay "Les Beaux Regards", "Le Cran" 2006 and a new rosé “Campania Remensis” Extra-Brut. Raphaël makes incredible sensual and delightful Champagne, which had a certain floating a weightless character.  His "Les Beaux Regards" is clean and vivid and really thirst-quenching.  2006 “Le Cran” is really interesting with many bio-driven notes of baby banana and yoghurt and a very playful Champagne, which will be even more complete with a couple of years in the cellar. His new rosé “Campania Remensis”  brings good memories back to his spectacular 2006 rosé Instant No.1 – yet not so graceful and a touch more bold, yet filled with overly  sexy and charming red fruit. A real crowd pleaser and  so easy to drink.

Vincent laval was next and as already flagged his 2012 are indeed promising with enormous depth. Champagne wise Laval presented his "Cumières Brut Nature", which is always a pleasure to drink.  I of course missed the company of this “Les Chênes” and  “Les Hautes-Chévres”, which wasn’t present. Oh well – I guess it’s just another reason for returning next year and maybe I will find them there.

(Olivier Horiot)
(Marie-Noëlle Ledru)

(Peter Liem - Champagneguide)
(Fabrice Pouillon)
(Passionate Dominique Moreau)

(David Léclapart)

David Léclapart is hard for me to say anything negative about, as I find both this person and Champagnes among some of the most personal and energetic. David reminds me to enjoy life and why not do it with one of his Champagnes. David have had a very challenging 2012 and was only able to present a single vins clairs he called “A”, which was an assemblage. Despite it wasn’t at the same level as the best ones there it was soon forgotten when I stuck my nose into a glass of 2008 “L’Artiste”. Unbelievable Champagne, it jumps out of the glass with enormous raw soil intensity and it simply blew me away. “L’Apôtre” was present in 2007, which ones again confirmed a vintage, which is light on its toes, pure and probably will mature a bit faster than other vintages. After two spectacular ’08 in the presence of “L’Amateur” and “L’Artiste” I don’t think I am the only one impatiently waiting for the release of the ’08 L’Apôtre” in 2014. David’s Saignée rosé “L’Alchimiste” was there in 2008 vintage and this is a Champagne, which always splits my mind. Without food it’s not exactly a pleaser with its raw iron and cranberry/Campari tonality and tannic taste. With food and some +6 years in the cellar I can see some potential for it and despite the latest releases are not as aggressive as the first vintages, I fail to really fall in love with this cuvée.

Right next to David was the talented Alexandre Chartogne (Chartogne-Taillet), presenting some of his single vineyard releases (and you have to forgive me, because I am actually not 100% sure whether these were all 2008 vintage as it says on official program) There is big potential and life in these cuvées and they have added another time and place spot in Champagnes diverse landscape. There is however one thing, which keeps me from only doing excited summersaults – and that’s the dosage. Now the Champagnes present at the tasting, had just been disgorged and the dosage had no chance at all to be fully integrated. In such a case the dosage tends to be feel like a sweet round big round bold stuck in the front of the mouth. In addition my assumption could be pure speculation, as I haven’t had the chance to taste these cuvée with zero, 2, 3,5, or 10 g/l for that matter. Still!! – I claim there is conflict vs my personal taste. You see 95% of the time I prefer Champagnes without dosage and when you have already been invited to the holy land with the 2006 Les Barres (it was released without dosage) you can’t help to feel a little bit sorry that it seems like the new vintage will actually have in the neighbourhood of 3 <> 5g/l dosage. Thing is dear readers, the dosage might not be all about sweetness, but it creates this small film running across the wine, taking you just a fraction away from the raw material – enough to leave you with a feeling of only having “seen – not touched”. So please Alexandre – don’t put any dosage in your Champagnes – they are magical without (I’ll bet) or at least let the Danish allocation be without ;-).

Now – back to those three Champagnes present from Alexandre, which are indeed filled with personality. There is the already mentioned "Les Barres" a Pinot Meunier from ungrafted vines holding this remarkable elastic structure and refined spices. The newest addition to the single vineyard portfolio is another Pinot Meunier “Les Alliés”, which might not have the same elastic structure, but it shines with a brighter character and lots of raciness.
"Orizeaux" (Pinot Noir) – and very sophisticated, both refined and intense, but also this weightless style.

("Orizeaux" From Chartogne-Taillet)
(Aurélien Laherte)
(Pascal Doquet)

(David and Vincent swapping hats and having fun)
(David and Vincent with friends)
(Franck Pascal)
(Fabrice Pouillon with Jordi Melendo)
(Pascal Agrapart)
(Cuvée Louis from Tarlant)

Benôit Tarlant is always a treat to say hello to – playful, charming and slowly shaping his philosophy into the cuvées of Tarlant. I have been fortunate to taste "BAM" a couple of times with Benôit and was happy too see it on display, although it’s not officially released yet (but getting closer). It’s a blend of Pinot Blanc, Arbanne and Petit Meslier and I have always been impressed by it’s energy. Benôit presented a base of 2008 and it was singing with confidence. It expressed a unique character and flirted with a lot of soya-based notes, making you think of pairing it together with some Sushi. Not the worst combination if you ask me.
Benôit had also brought another Champagne, which I have tried samples of before – the Pinot Noir based single vineyard Noir called “Mocque Tonneau” and now officially released as “La Vigne Royal Extra Brut” (1 g/l). It’s a rich and concentrated Champagne. Although it’s style is easy to link and mark by the vintage, with it’s deeper baseline and darker Pinot Noir cherry notes it has much more to offer. There is solid soil intensity (terroir is chalk), which of course is adding to the concentration but also supplying some liveliness and freshness keeping the balance intact. A really successful ’03.
The third and last Champagne from Benôit were the traditional Cuvée Louis. “Now it’s finally my wine” Benôit proudly said – as the current release of Cuvée Louis is a typical blend of the usual three vintages, including the 1999, which was the first year Benôit took over. Louis is incredible Charming and classic – a Champagne for both enjoyment and intellect. Great line-up.

Let me also mention Benôit Lahayes sans sufre “Violaine” – present in the second release of 2009 vintage. A very interesting and free Champagne, despite the 2009 seemed bit shyer than 2008. Give it some time.

Françoise Bedel – presented a much better line-up this year and I think you have to recognize the quality she are able to bring forward, given where she is located.  Her style is really bio driven and funky and beautiful with food – especially for the cooler seasons where mushrooms and more dense food are dominating the table.

Last but not least – Pascal Doquet, who have some very lively and precise Champagnes. A good way to get acquainted could very well be his new BdB “Horizon”, which is an honest and really simple drink me quick Champagne. Even better, deeper and really linear are his ’02 Mesnil. In general Pascal brings forward lots of raciness in this Champagnes and they are constantly getting better. 

 (Olivier Horiot - makes one of Champagnes best Coteau Champanois)
 (Raphaël  Bérèche)
(Pascal Agrapart having something to drink after a long day)

Think that was it….I’ll be back next year.