Recently tasted wines

Many of these wines are tasted either at home or in the company of good friends without any notes taken.

Champagne

3 Champagnes tasted in London with my friend, Anders.

2006 Georges Laval “Les Hautes-Chévres”

They say Vincent Laval have made his best vintage ever in 2006. Now, that would be impossible for me to judge, as I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to Laval. But my God what a Champagne I was about to taste. Mind-blowing complexity with a deep scented Pinot Noir frame, holding slightly overripe fruits and yet it has such a sleek presentation driven by a mineral overload. A very young Champagne, but with such vitality ,who can keep hands of now?

2006 Larmandier-Bernier “Vieille-Vignes de Cramant blanc de Blancs”

Hard to follow Laval’s quality and I needed a few minutes to level with this Champagne, which of course is a different grape and terroir. It’s not as deep as Laval (few are), but this is beautiful Champagne, holding creamy sensations of milk skin, banana and pastry. Cristal clear taste with good mineral bite.

2006 Georges Laval “Les Meuniers de la butte”

Fell rather lucky getting the pleasure of tasting this rare release once again. This bottle was slightly more reserved compared with my previous experience in Dec-2011. Still a one of a kind and the most exotic Pinot Meunier I know of.

At home again:

NV Laherte “Les Clos"

My last “Les Clos” in June-2011 was the first disappointment ever and I have been eager to erase that experience ever since. It happened a weekend in March-2012, were this Champagne once again won my heart. I loved it – find it absolutely stunning with sizzling fresh appeal of both greenish fruits, citrus overload, sophisticated spices (like black tea) and a great acidity game. I believe this bottle was disgorged in early 2010.

2004 Georges Laval “Cumiéres Brut Nature” from Magnum

Served for lunch at my wife’s birthday. Everyone around the table loved it – including me. Just plain a simple adorable with solid baseline of spicy scented fruit, matched up with citrus sparkling and vibrant mineral bite.

2006 Christophe Mignon “Millésimée”

First time I taste Champagne from this producer.  This cuvée is based on 100% Pinot Meunier. A Rich Champagne, with honey fruits, brioche, flowers and some caramel associations. There is deep baseline of dark phrasings, spice-window adding to its density and rich appeal. Despite such bold a character it’s also holds decent purity and a very vibrant acidity keeping everything in balance. I found it   very pleasing to drink. Very interesting new Champagne discovery.

NV (2007) TH & V Demarne-Frison “Goustan”

Another pleasurable reunion – yet it’s evolving a bit faster than anticipated. A Champagne born with really splendid sensorial sweetness, despite the absence of dosage. It’s now accompanied with deeper honey flavours and even some brioche notes, taking the seductive appeal higher. The acidity is still firm, but I believe it will have it’s peak now + 4years.

2009 Cédric Bouchard “Les Ursules”

It’s a shame I didn’t shoot an image of the colour on this Champagne. The 2009 have an incredible dark glowing colour and it’s a beautiful treat for the eye. The inside of the bottle is not bad either, yet I would like to cellar it some two years more before I try it again. It shows how compact and well build Les Ursules are. You can already tell the material is there – however it’s not unfolding yet and the dark cherry notes create too much bitter components for the moment. I am confident it will be better to wait.

2006 Bérèche “Instant Rosé No.1”

I have always loved this Champagne, but when I bought my six-pack just after its’ release I had no idea it would become a cult Champagne - and Raphaël’s best Champagne. It’s been a year since I last tasted it (April-2011 @ Terre et vins de Champage from Magnum)  and it has gained even more intensity. For me it’s a textbook rosé Champagne with salty red perfumes of strawberry and apricot. There is a bit more smoke providing a deeper spectrum and a solid intense baseline. It never get’s too much and it’s so focused and complex.  Also a Champagne ,which you can easily raise up to 16 degrees in temperature without it loosing nerve and focus.  Absolutely adorable Champagne. Disgorged 4^th of May 2009.

Whites:

Mostly tasted Alexandre Jouveaux and my favourites “Chez Charles” and “Selves”. But I did also have a Riesling:

2005 Müller-Catoir Riesling “Breumel in den Mauern” Grosses Gewächs

Extremely bold Riesling opening without any kind of focus and pleasure. In the glass I had an opulent and alcoholic Riesling. It gave away a lot of unfriendly spice scents – sadly leading to reductive tones and in the end giving away some sulphur resemblance. I couldn’t continue the journey and rested it for another day. Day two and three it was still horrible, but at day four some signs of improvement came forward - with a bit more clarity setting in. I liked the structure more than the bouquet itself, but overall it never became a successful date. Maybe it’s in need of further cellaring?

Reds:

2001 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve

Highly sensual and seductive Italian Sangiovese wine, with a mouth coating appeal. It starts with eat-me-tiger notes of vanilla, leather and dark cherries – all wrapped up in a tense and velvet styled finish. As you pour yourself one glass after another the wine becomes more and more monotone as main attraction is not complex notes, but a wine masked by a way too high  level of new oak. That said – it’s not a wine that is hard to drink – it’s just a wine that doesn’t tell a story.  

2008 Julien Courtois “100%”

I told the retailer that I was looking for a wine with higher purity and preferably fragile red fruit. “Here is one I think you will like, but it’s not a wine with fragile red fruit”, he said.

First impression was something like “hmmmmm”…yes for sure not that fragile red fruit I am always hunting for – but instead dark luxurious fruits. The wine has certain sensuality, flowing with blackberries, dark cherries, forest floor and a sophisticated note of celery. The taste is incredible fresh, juicy, silky and best of all really light weighted. Very delicious.

What else April & May 2011

All images are clickable and will open a larger format.

April and May has of course offered a good deal of Champagne due to Terre et vins de Champagne. But it’s also the coming of spring and now slowly summer, which adds even more Champagne and white wines. This is logical for most of us, but I recently noticed, while attending a tasting with US-reds, that I am increasingly very negative biased towards wine with strong alcohol profiles.

I have to be realistic about this and it seems kind of ridiculous to use this site to bash one after another of these types of wines. I simply don’t understand these wines anymore and should you be of another opinion you should probably look elsewhere for advice. Below are the wines I tasted during a US-tasting, which my very good friend Anders hosted. It should be noted; that I have tasted a fair amount of SQN wines and among those listed the SQN wines once again offered some sort of edge and allure, despite a violent strong and dense fruit core. I have even listed some Italian wines, which I also had a very hard time with. I don’t know if it’s appropriate to say that I feel worried, but thing is, I am getting more and more picky and wines that I use to love are now giving me a very hard time do a degree where I simply can’t drink them.

2004 Merryvale “Profile”, Napa Valley (Cabernet Sauvignon blend)

2005 Darioush “Signature” Cabernet Sauvignon

2007 Chappellet “Pritchard Hill” /Cabernet Sauvignon, St Helena, Napa)

2004 Agartha (Syrah + a tiny bit of Grenache, marsanne, viognier & rousanne)

2006 Sine Qua Non – Raven, Santa Barbara, (syrah)

2007 Sine Qua Non Labels, Santa Barbara (syrah)

2006 Saxum Heartstone Vineyard, Passo Robles (Grenache, syrah og Mouverdre)

2008 K Vintners - The Creator (Cabernet og Syrah), Walle Walle, Washington

2008 K Vintners - Roma en Chamberlin (Cabernet & Syrah) Walle Walle, Washington

2008 K Vintners - The Deal (syrah) Walle Walle, Washington

2008 Gaja – Sito Moresco (nebiolo, barbera og CS)

2007 Gaja - Barbaresco (Nebiolo)

2001 Gaja Conteisa

2000 Gaja Sorí Tildin

2001 P. Scavino Barolo, “Bric del Fiasc”

(2004 L'Artiste)

But let’s focus on some of the interesting wines I have tasted – especially my Champagne encounters have been magnificent.

Champagnes:

2005 Vilmart “Grand cellier d’or”

Blend: 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir

Dosage: Not sure – but the 2004 vintage was dosed with 9 g/l

It’s not always right to compare….I think I have said that right? Sometimes the diversity is more interesting. Well….let’s see if I can navigate through my own rules, because this is a tricky one. You see, this wine was a starter to what lead to a rather crazy night where 4 happy people shared a good deal of Champagnes. Anyway….a good starter which secured instant pleasure with it’s rather seductive nose of vanilla, walnuts and spices. However, when the next wine was poured it collapsed in comparison. Suddenly it was too sweet and almost vulgar. Still let’s remember it for really fair laid-back drinking Champagne. So what was the next wine?....well…read the next tasting note.

2004 David Léclapart “L’Artiste”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged: Aug-2007

Dosage: 0 g/l dosage

Other: L’Artiste is made from 30-50 year old wines and ages half in steel and barrel

Since the bell rang for an open window on the ’04 “L’Artiste” I have had it 3 times and I sense that I will soon have drunk them all. This Champagne is simply mind-blowing stuff. It’s like a razor blade of minerals and it’s enters with so much soil energy and purity that you are completely blown away. It’s like a crystallized bath of seashells, baby banana and green apples. There is not much else to say about this Champagne – it’s a small masterpiece.

(2002 David Léclapart “L’Apôtre”)

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged: April-2006

Dosage: 0 g/l dosage
Other: L’Apôtre is a lieu-dit of La Pierre St-Martin with vines planted in 1946 and made only in oak.

It’s been a while since I have had the 2002 “L’Apôtre” and I consider most 2002’s out there rather closed. Still I took a change to open it and sadly it’s very shy and not all there yet, far from it. Still, I think there is some interesting information here. I remember asking David about the cellar potential of “L’Apôtre” and now begin to see that his guess of 25-35 years is more than likely. This Champagne is poised with soil almost wet rocks of soil energy and the raw side of it, is like taking a bite of the nature. I adore it for it’s style, but I have to remain patient, which is always a challenge for me.

(The neck of Billcart-Salmon)

1996 Billecart-Salmon “BdB”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Damn!!!...It’s not there yet. Still very shy and it’s like the fruit is covered with a fine film of milk. It has some flowery stuff and sweet vanilla pastry thing going on, but really not more than that. I have to recommend another 5 years of cellaring.

Jacque Selosse “Rosé” (twice – but different disgorgement dates)

I have had this twice and the “normal bottle” – disgorged 2^nd of February 2009 is with 7 g/l dosage and performed like it always does. It still fells like a big teddy bear – a real seductive breed, which I like, when I have it in companionship with food and friends (You can read a more detailed note here). The second bottle is the latest release and it’s disgorged the 26^th of November 2010 and has only 2 g/l of dosage. The wines feels much more fragile now, if you can say that about Selosse. It’s saltier, slimmer and despite the flavours is still turning towards strawberry, apricot and Asian spices; it has so much better balance. It almost feels like the Champagne isn’t blended with so much red wine, but that is just an assumption from my side. Anyway it’s the best Selosse rosé I have tasted.

(1999 Selosse Vintage)

1999 Selosse Vintage

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Disgorged 9th of January 2009

Dosage: I am not sure, but think its non-dosage

Bonus: Zero Sulfur

Can you ask for more? Well maybe, but if we stay in Selosse own universe, this is close to perfection. Despite having tasted it twice, this is by far the most impressive ’99 I have had. It’s a volcano of Selosse with quince, clove, honey and evening perfume. These notes are normal for Selosse and the taste is also a full-blown dense, waxy – almost creamy mouth feel. A Champagne of such a profile could easily fall into a category of vulgarity, but it’s poised with an enormous energy, which drives this powerhouse of a Champagne into a seamless presentation. WOW!!!!!!!

(Contraste)

NV Selosse “Contraste”

Blend: 100% Pinot Noir

Vintages: 2002 + 2003

Disgorged: 4th of February 2009

Maybe one of the final releases of Contraste, as the back label already gives information about the upcoming split of the two vineyards in Aÿ and Ambonnay from 2004 vintage and forward. So maybe a bit sentimental or just the fact that I was sharing this bottle with Champagne loving friends, because it turned out to be the finest Contraste I had ever tasted. The notes are typical Selosse or maybe we should say typical Contraste, because it’s deep and sensual Pinot Noir, which flirts with walnuts in layers of honey. The most adorable aroma was however the note of orange blossoms which took the complexity and seductive appeal into a heavenly stage. I think I have one single bottle of Contraste left in my cellar – I cross my fingers it’s from the same disgorgement date. Magical.

(Old Krug Rosé)

NV Krug “Rosé”

(Disgorged 1980)

Don’t ask me how I know it’s disgorged in 1980 – I don’t. My friend, who brought this bottle just, said it and the information might have been on the cork, because I couldn’t find anything on the bottle. Anyway – it makes good sense that it’s a really old bottle. It’s just on the verge of tilting over – fruit wise that is. However the funky tertiary aromas and a really vivid acidity had the ability to crank up the complexity and despite some emerging mould aromas on the nose, I overall really liked it.

('08 Prévost)

2008 Jérôme Prévost La Closerie “Les Béguines”

Blend: 100% Pinot Meunier

Dosage: 0 g/l

Being served after Selosse (The 1999 vintage) is never funny. But! Someone has to do it and I chose a former student of him; Jérôme Prévost. This is the second time I have this promising 2008 vintage and I think you have to pinch yourself in arm when having this – it’s that good my friends. These spices are so sophisticated and they take shape of aromas, which are so complex and impossible to fit into normality. You can detect some black cherries and a wicked note of licorice, but it’s so subtle and refined. The taste is still very tight, but you already have this remarkable sleek texture. It will be interesting to follow this ’08, but I think we have potentially the best Les Béguines here (so far that is).

2004 Bérèche Instant "Le Cran" Vintage

Blend: 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier

Dosage: 4 g/l??

I am not sure about the dosage in this bottle, as it was a sample, not the official release. However I suspect 4 g/l, like the official release of this Champagne.

Raphäel have really lifted his Champagnes into a level of weightlessness and lush fruit appeal, which brings them lots of allure. However, I have had my concerns about this Champagne – especially it’s level of vanilla from the oak as it joins forces with this level of dosage. However it’s like the balance point are correct and it’s typical Bérèche with adorable notes of apples, pineapple and baby banana.

(2004 "Le Chênes")

2004 George Laval “Le Chênes”

Blend: 100% Chardonnay

Dosage: 0 g/l

Disgorged: 20th of February 2009

On Paper I shouldn’t have served this Champagne, as we already had too much to drink. However I am glad I did it, because we only drank 3 glasses so there was a good excuse for me to have some more Champagne the day after.

It’s an unbelievable Champagne with an orgy of passion fruits; mango, kiwi and overripe peaches. I have sometimes found the overripe element too much in Laval’s wines, as they get anchored with biodynamic notes of wet hay. But I have to admit he is a producer I have to pay more attention to. In this 2004 there is nothing overripe despite these notes are heading towards this passion fruit thing. This Champagne completely took me by surprise by showing such remarkable class and sleek elegance. It’s seriously one of the most exquisite 2004’s I have tasted.

2002 Bollinger “La Grande Année Rosé”

Blend: 62% Pinot Noir (6% red wine from a parcel in Aÿ ) and 38% Chardonnay.

Dosage: About 8 g/l

After having spent a day with Cédric Bouchard, Benoît Tarlant and a quick stop @ Bérèche our last stop on this trip to Champagne was l'Assiette Champenoise, where we both stayed and had dinner at their ** Michelin restaurant. The food was rather good and probably the best place I have tried in Champagne. I missed a larger selection of grower Champagne on the rather expensive wine list, but it’s slowly coming I am being told. After so much grower Champagne I thought it could be fun to taste something from a big house producer and I was rather happy about my choice. Despite it’s holding a bit back (again a reserved 2002) it’s a solid good GA rosé. It’s classic Bollinger in terms of a sound concentrated style with deeper layers of red fruit. However Bollinger balances it out great with lighter breezes of flowery perfumes. At this stage I found the purity and definition lacking a bit behind in terms of what I had just tasted that day, but still it has lots of time ahead of it to stretch itself and gain more complexity.

Other Champagnes

There is seldom a month without my daily drinkers, which in most cases are Laherte “Brut Nature”, Laherte 2006 "Vigne d'Autrefois" (Much better on day 2…so cellar 2 years more), Tarlant Brut Zero (normal and Rosé….see a small video here) and the latest Benoît Lahaye Brut Nature (2008 base). All great and some enjoyed over 3 days and still showing remarkable freshness and delicious drinkability.

Whites:

2007 Fanny Sabre “Mersault Charmes”

Mersault is known to be fat, oily and buttery and if you kick in a good deal of oak you get a combo, which I not always a fan of. But in the hands of Fanny Sabre – a woman (maybe that’s it), you suddenly have a Mersault, which is shining with remarkable clarity and poised elegance. Sure you have some buttery components, but it’s more in the line of toasted bread and some smoky subtle sensations. There are additional fruits from melon and apples, which has companionship of straw and hay and all in all it’s adding to the complexity of the wine. The taste is fine vertical line with ends in a slim vivid finale. Loved it.

2009 Julien Altaber “Bourgogne”

I don’t have much information about this producer, which is completely new to me. Apparently there is a link to Derain and him. He has worked there, but if he still does it – I don’t know? First impression from the nose what nothing more than a simple table wine. Notes of melon, smoke, flowers, citrus and straw and a taste, which ends far too warm with a dull, polished structure. At this level – only it’s purity it worth mentioning, as it falls into yet another rather boring “Chardonnay”. However!...It took a turn, after an hour or so and really firmed up and became far more delicate and it’s purity was penetrating trough the layers and suddenly it wasn’t just another Chardonnay. Sadly it didn’t loose its polished structure, which prevented a real acidity smack. Still an okay wine and very fair priced.

Dönnhoff

2004 Riesling Spätlese “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany

Lovely – light, fresh with honey and peach. Taste is very vertical and it’s drinking so well.

2006 Riesling GG “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany

Very strange wine. Blends in some botrytis, yet it also has a raw side with this fennel thing on the nose. It ends in a combination of snaps and acacia honey. Not good – even on day 2 and 3 it was still completely out of focus.

2005 Riesling Auslese “Hermannshöhle”, Nahe, Germany (0,375cl bottle – tasted twice)

First time in late April it was served in Zalto Universal and here it performed the best. It’s seriously one of the best and most exquisite dessert wines I have had in a while. So lush, ripe, and intense - yet so ballerina light. Amazing drinkable stuff.

(Like that label and the wine is good too)

Reds:

2009 Vini Viti Vinci “Irancy”, Burgundy, France (100% Pinot Noir)

Well – looking at the label and tasting the wine got me in a good mood. The wine has a lovely instant and juicy red fruit appeal. Drinking incredible well at this stage and it could easily be one of those few reds I could consider drinking this summer.

2001 Poggio di Sotto “Il Decennale”, Tuscaly, Italy

This wine was dismissed by the DOGC as a Brunello di Montalcino due to a too light colour. Well, since the big fuss when it was released, it has actually gained some of its colour back. Brunello or not – it’s a beautiful wine, with a good deal of red fruit, refined spices and it’s a wine I loved for it’s tallness and delightful and intellectual style. Taste is solid Italian with clean, refreshing and fine tuned matching concentration to the package. Just a notch below Soldera’s Case Basse, but a great wine, with lots of cellar potential. Decanting is however required at this stage.

That’s what I remember….this might be the last post before the summer break, but I have a big Champagne tasting coming up tomorrow, so let’s see how much time I get.

What else February & March 2011

I'll better write this small wrap-up before it evolves into another 48 wines post.

Champagne

NV Selosse " Version Originale / V.O." (Disgorgement date 16. November 2009)

Under normal circumstances the V.O. starts slightly oxidized and then firms up. However this was not the case here. This bottle used no time at all to strip and it was an outrageous sexy beast from glass one. One of those "sniffer" Champagnes, where you spent most of the time looking like someone that was born with a wineglass glued around your nose. It's typical Selosse; with vanilla, freshly ground butter, ripe apple juice and an utterly divine note of pistachios. But it's the intensity of these aromas, which makes it a really special bottle. Taste is beyond the scale of enjoyment with an incredible rewarding style. Is it the best V.O. I have ever tasted? I think so. So I checked again and had it two weeks later, where I was almost even better. Bravo

2005 Ulysse Colin Bdb, Champagne

I have experienced tremendous amount of bottle variations with this cuvée. Some bottles as tight as a Chablis and others quit evolved. This belongs in the latter section and on day 1 it felt like the Champagne had had it's peak and was heading down. Some of the notes are pleasing enough; acacia honey, warm croissants, browned melted butter - but the notes have very little life and on top they present themselves too overripe. Taste is dull too, even with bitter components and all action (and it's not much) takes place in the front of the mouth. Not good. I didn't drink it all and had already written it off on day two, but it actually was much better (how odd). Still not great Champagne, but some freshness had emerged. So...hmmmm, what to think? After day one I would have suggest "hurry up" and despite the come-back on day two, I would still recommend to drink it now. If looking for cellar potential I would go for the 2006 vintage.

1999 Bollinger "La Grande Anné"

It's natural that you begin to detect components of autolysis. I like those notes, but there is no doubt that drinking more and more breeds of young Champagnes with delightful pure fruit has an affect on me. When autolysis gets companionship of spices, it's required for those spices to be really delicate and fresh. Otherwise it can happen – like with this bottle, the impure spices starts blending themselves with the autolysis notes and it can end up in notes of a dusty sofa. This was the case here and even if I was presented with; black cherries, milk, butter, malt, dark bread it couldn't take away the focus from the "dusty sofa", which took purity and allure massively down. Taste plays with those darker phrasings, where you get those spices again and it's not at all good for the purity hunter like me. I felt disappointed and it's rare I feel that about Bollinger.

1999 Bollinger "La Grande Anné rosé"

I have had this a few times before and it's always a consistent performer. It's the kind of rosé which gives more perfumes of red fruit and doesn't feels like red wine with bubbles. Its gives a more salty style and brings everything to a subtle tonality. However with Bollinger you will always get some of the house classic tense and bold style. It suits this Champagne perfectly and adds a note of plum to the red raspberry aromas. There are only slight fractions of autolysis involved and in general I found it much better than the normal GA.

(Expecting guests)

2002 Vilmart " Grand Cellier Rubis Rosé"

When I bought this Champagne I was ecstatic about it - then it turned into too much happy tutti frutti red fruit with dull oak flavours. But this summer the 1999 vintage really took me by surprise (positive) and me thought why not tango with the 2002 vintage.

Well well well...it has improved and its obvious the equation with these overly red fruit birthday party rosé's is to let them cellar in order for the fruit to dry out a bit and for the notes to be saltier. This is exactly was has started to happen here, but it's not there yet - give it another 2 years. Notes are pretty intense and consist of; Currant, Pinot Noir influence, *iron, spices (there are quit hot) and iodine. Taste is very deep warm and intense and you still get the impression that you are drinking red wine with bubbles. If to say something remotely negative, it's the level of oak, which is quit heavy loaded, but it's something, which I suspect will be better integrated in two years time.

Glasses: For the first time - the Spiegelau Adina gave out some *iron components, which didn't show up in the Zalto white wine. In Zalto the wine was racier and just better. The Zalto White wine has recently been rather interesting to drink Champagne from and I want to test this glass a little more before I begin to write my glass conclusion.

NV Billecart-Salmon Rosé (@ Roka London)

Solid standard NV Champagne. Maybe not overly pure, but still has good harmony of red fruit and spices.

2007 David Léclapart "L'Amateur" (@Fiskebaren, Copenhagen)

Tasted a glass of this in a restaurant. It seemed very shy and almost impossible to approach. I hope to taste it again.

2006 Cédric Bouchard “Les Ursules” (@ The Ledbury, London)

Wonderful – loved it again.

NV Chartogne-Taillet "Cuvée Sainte-Anne" (@ Vijante, London)

Simple refreshing and flowery. Really nice

Reds

2009 Dard et Ribo Saint Joseph "Pitan"

Last summer the 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, 'C'est le Printemps' renewed my love for Rhône, simply because it wasn't very Rhôn'ish. So I gave Dard et Ribo another try and bought a new wine from them after have tasted small samples of their 2009 portfolio. This is incredible juicy stuff without being intrusive with notes of blackcurrant, menthol and Licorice. Taste is round, juicy again, incredible precise and there is a splendid floating style to the wine, which might well be related to the moderate alcohol level of 12.5%. The wine is an ambassador of that thing we call drinking pleasure and I would drink it young despite it can easily cellar another 10 years.

2008 Vogüé "Chambolle-Musigny" (@Fiskebaren, Copenhagen)

A delicious wine, with sweet cherry plum appeal and a velvet mouth feel. Maybe a tad too sweet from the oak, but so pleasing.

2004 Soldera Brunello “Case Basse Riserva” (only one glass)

Sad thing it was only one glass, because it’s outrageously good. I think it’s the most fruit driven young Case Basse I have tasted so far. Juicy, intellectual, sensual and so Italian. WOW!!!!

2004 Giacomo Conterno "Barbera d'Alba"

My last bottle - so I thought (just found an extra one last week), but what a bottle. When this wine was released it was singing with that delightful red fruit so few Barbera's has. Then is shut down and I had my doubts if it ever would shine again. This bottle was bloody nice and so Italian, just how I like it. Notes are; fresh thyme, rosemary, leather, dust, menthol and the fruit have just reached that classic stage of dry elements, which is superb. Taste warms my second Italian heart, but oozes some menthol notes on the last meters, which I think is the result of 14.5% alcohol. Despite feeling a bit more blurry than usual after the last drops, I still consider it to be a great bottle.

2004 Quinta Sardonia “QS”

Horrible. Smelled of animal blood, bacon and with a viscosity close to floating lava.

Whites:

2006 Kongsgaard Chardonnay "The Judge" (@ The Ledbury, London)

My best friend Anders is a dedicated fan of this wine. It's fun to taste this wine with him and see his passion. Wine is also about sharing and learning what drives our palates.

The wine is very oak driven from start with notes of coconut, burned butter, caramel and nail polish. It's a real beast and not really my type of wine. Taste moulds a lot in the mouth and doesn't do much to the term freshness and ends way too muscular and warm.

2002 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles” (Only one glass)

Very classy and sleek wine. Nose has lots of flowery components, freshly ground butter and smoke. Taste is still very tight with firm and vibrant acidity. A bit of smoke on the mid-palate is the only critique – preventing full mineral explosion, but 3-4 years of cellaring could be the trick.

Links:

http://www.viajante.co.uk/

http://www.theledbury.com/

http://rokarestaurant.com/

http://www.fiskebaren.dk/da/

What else winter 2010 - 48 wines

Here are some short notes of some wines I have enjoyed in late 2010 and even a few ones from the beginning of 2011.

Lack of time, is still my biggest obstacle, but there are events where I simply can't take notes or have my camera with me. Still - most of these notes ARE composed of actually short paper notations.

You will have to excuse me for lack of sufficient image material for this post.

Champagne

2004 David Leclapart, "L’Alchimiste Rosé"

It’s one hell of a wicked rosé, which is certainly not for everyone and seems to be stuck in the same young phase. It smells of cranberry, iron, pâté and sherry. It’s almost aggressive and like a beast, which will eat you if you don’t behave. Could be fun to taste it in 10 years time, where David might have the last laugh.

1990 Salon

Sensual honey infected fruit, with the finest freshly churned butter and scents of a Parisian patisserie. Brilliant and drinking very well now.

1988 Krug (1 glass only)

“More about wine making, and not so terroir defined”, was one of the remarks, which was spot on to me. But it was Champagne with lots of confidence and dynamite concentration. However, I found the level of oak and toasted flavours too clumsy, especially when ballerina Salon had just kissed me. I think 1988 Krug is in a closed phase.

2006 Ulysse Collin

Better than the 2005. More of everything and the oak so much better integrated, as the fruit has much more class and intensity. I will taste it again in near future.

2006 Cédric Bouchard “Haut Lamblee” (In Berlin)

Ridiculous good. It’s so elegant, exquisite and has that classy silky Cedric Bouchard appeal. The wine is about flowery perfumes, soil smoke and mineral infected fruit. I hope my fellow wine friends liked it, because I was flying. I hope to taste it again soon.

1999 Selosse Vintage (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Full speed ahead, with classic Selosse character of quince, exotic evening perfume, vanilla and a bold waxy profile. Enormous taste with a long mouth coating finish. I will also taste this again for sure. Sure it’s young, but the style of Selosse is always fun to test drive, no matter the age.

2004 David Léclapart “Apôtre” (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Came after 1999 Selosse. Looking back I would have served them the other way around. It’s very shy and in a closed phase. All of its elements are there, purity, energy and mineral affected style – it’s just a matter of patience. Don’t touch now.

NV Selosse Initiale (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Yep, it’s a solid fine Champagne. However I still prefer V.O. Missed the disgorgement date.

Fleur de L'Europe, Fleury, Champagne (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Served in a flight with Selosse. A notch down in quality – but doing okay in fact. Has an oxidative round and polished style. The finish is too short to make it really great.

NV Laherte Brut Nature

Simple, refreshing and pure. Drink it in big gulps and lots of it.

2008 Jêrôme Prévost, La Closerie “Les Béguines” (@ The wine bar Ved Stranden 10)

Very compact Champagne – but so sophisticated. It’s deadly young, possessing mysterious spice section with black cherries. Tasted in Zalto Universal glass, which was a bit weird. Rest assured, that I will taste it again.

2004 Agrapart “Venus” (@ Restaurant Fiskebaren)

Oh so fine so fine. You can find a more detailed note here.

2004 Agrapart “Avizoise” (@ The wine bar Ved Stranden 10)

Oh those tropical fruits…mango and pineapple. Loved it again. Se more detailed note here and here.

2002 Pierre Péters Cuvée Spéciale “Les Chétillons”

I decided to buy a bottle of this highly praised Champagne and see what the fuss was all about. It's a Champagne, which is very hard to judge, given its age. Very young breed, giving away flowers, yellow fruits, citrus and mineral smoke. There is a really good class to the Champagne, as it stands with terrific tallness and ultra clear flavours in the glass. The taste almost hurts and the minerals are warming the palate. But it wasn't really fun to taste - as the minerals and flavours combined gives away some bitterness.

So as you can see, it's really hard to conclude, as my experience with this producer is very limited. I sensed the material was there for sure, so was the terroir print of Mesnil - and it's indeed very well made Champagne. But I really missed some wildness to the wine, as it's on the verge of being a bit to "pretty", if you know what I mean.

NV Beaufort Rosé de Saigneé (92-92) (@ a Wine Battle)

This is blend of 1992 and 1998 vintage, which has been disgorged here in 2011 with no dosage

Served after a big battery of red wines and comes across as a fresh breeze. Incredible flavours of rosehip, strawberry, smoke and just red red fruit. It's very intriguing Champagne on the nose - with a pure and elegant taste, but I would have to have more than a glass to really judge it.

Reds

2004 Solaia (In Berlin)

Came after that adorable 2004 Brunello from Stella di Campalto. Solaia has blackcurrant, dark chocolate, thyme and tar. It has a super concentrated finish, but a wine with lesser purity and a more international style of wine. Even though I am getting tired with the IGT wines from Italy – I know Solaia is a wine, which really can age gracefully and tease critiques like me. However – here and now, I feel disappointed.

2000 Sandrone ,Barolo “Cannubi Boschis”

Nice wine, but not great. The fruit is a bit overripe and not so well defined purity.I have had this wine 3 times now, and I would still recommend cellaring, but I doubt it will ever be a classic “CB”.

2008 Jean Foillard, “Morgon Cote de Py”

So glad my fellow tasters liked this one. It’s just in need of another 1-2 years of cellaring, before the red fruit takes over. Today the wine is still inhabited by more black fruits and a meaty style. More detailed note here.

2008 Cécile Tremblay Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes (@ The wine bar Ved Stranden 10)

Interesting profile. Nose deadly young with notes of black fruit, medicine and iodine. Taste is solid, vibrant with good fresh attack

2005 Cécile Tremblay Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes (@ The wine bar Ved Stranden 10)

Different compared to the 2008 Vintage. Fruit core has better depth, density - yet also lovely notes of forest, dust and dried fruit. There are better complexity and more refined taste here. Not a killer wine, but still good.

2007 Kistler Vineyard (@ The wine bar Ved Stranden 10)

Came after the 2 X Tremblay. The table cheered. I didn’t like it. It has typical wow-factor of more alcohol and sweet fruit. It gives away its true character on the palate, where the fruit ends in grilled afterburners and clumsy/dull texture. Returning to the nose after having tasted it - lowered the drinking pleasure and killed it off in my book.

2008 Liger-Belair ’Clos du Chateau” (@ Restaurant Fiskebaren)

Magical wine. Transparent red colour with the most delightful shining red fruit. The drinking pleasures are among the finest and the 12% alcohol makes it impossible to resist. I have ordered some – but will I be able to find it….if so – there will be a full TN soon.

2007 Liger-Belair ’Clos du Chateau” (@ a wine battle)

So fine. Se above – the 2008 is a fraction better me think - but close race.

2006 Mugnier NSG ’Marechale’ (@ Restaurant Fiskebaren)

Served next to 2008 Liger-Belair ’Clos du Chateau” and even it’s a solid wine – there was only one red wine that evening. It has darker fruit composition and spices, but still very nice sleek feel on the palate.

2009 Domaine Gramenon, Cotes du Rhone “La Sagesse”

Me and Rhone…it’s not that great a relationship. But you might remember this summer, I had a great wine from Dard et Ribo – so I am always curious to try a new wine. I used two bottles on Christmas eve, which was good – but not really great as the alcohol was too strong. However the third bottle – here in February, was rather nice. It has a very young fruit core of purple / bluish fruit (did that make sense) – good spice section of pine needles and peppermint. Taste overall wins on its purity and fresh immediate fruit. It’s not a wine I am in love with, but a solid glass of wine.

2005 Brunello di Montalcino, Stella di Campalto (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Maybe not as structured as the 2004 vintage and with less cellar potential, but my Good it’s a pleasing wine. The red fruit is here – so is new oak, but it’s still so Italian born. I was very happy.

2004 Brunello di Montalcino, Stella di Campalto (@ a wine battle)

Stunning once again. It will soon close down – and requires a lot of air. More detailed note here.

2003 Guigal, Côte-Rôtie, Chateau d’Ampuis (@ a wine battle)

It’s the kind of wine, which makes a real impression, when it hit’s the glasses. A lot of “oooohhhhss” and “wows” around the table. It’s explodes from the glass with vitamin pills, gauze bandage, bacon, blood and overall a very animalistic and fleshy kind of wine (not good). Taste follows the same path with tons of mass an almost violent attack. It didn’t like it – as there is no gracefulness and drinking pleasure whatsoever. I have tasted this wine in 1999 vintage, which is a much better wine. Better luck next time.

1996 Vietti, Barolo "Brunate" (@ a Wine Battle)

Very structured, dry and almost harsh style of Barolo. The fruit is smoked, dried and impure. It's either a bottle, which hasn't been stored under mint conditions or just a very old-school style, which I didn't like.

2005 Bartolo Marscarello, Barolo (@ Restaurant Relæ)

More old-School Barolo - but what a darling. Not so structured and long-lived, but what a pleasing wine with scents of violets and red fruit. Great with food and a really pleasing wine. Loved it

1964 Domaine Leroy Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru (@ a Wine Battle)(Served blind)

Third time I taste this terrific wine. It's not the best example I have had, but still fantastic. Still fresh (these bottle was released some 4 years ago, directly from the cellars of Leroy) with cherries, rubber and cappuccino. Taste is sensual, light - but really warming your soul. On the last meters you have some wet forest notes, which is not bad, but takes away from purity. It should be noted the table guessed around 1990, 1989 on the vintage - so talk about fresh.

2001 La Spinetta, Barolo Campe (@ a Wine Battle)

I didn't take notes here, but I remember it just over the top on all parameters. The oak are the primary driver and it's taking away all personality and drinking pleasure. Not good.

2006 Arrocal, Máximo, Ribera del Duero (From Magnum) (@ a Wine Battle)

It's absolutely solid and well made wine; it's just not my kind of wine. It's opulent; polish fruit - dominated by blackberries, with a fair doze of new oak. There is some edge to the wine - but not enough to compensate for the balance between interesting fruit and oak.

1990 Leoville Barton (@ a Wine Battle)

An old friend. I have owned this wine myself, but drunk it. It's fairly cool tempered wine, with notes of blackcurrant, salami and pâté. Structured with a lot of dusty elements and in fact, still a very young wine. You have to take your hat of the cellar potential of Bordeaux. But I am sorry to say, there is no soul here for me - it's so dull. It's me, I know - if you are looking for Bordeaux advice, I am not your man.

2001 Leoville Barton (@ a Wine Battle)

Strange wine. Black fruit core, with peppery elements. Taste even worse. Young - but not good.

2000 Rayas, CNDP (@ a Wine Battle)

Loved the red kirsch fruit of this wine. Really elegant and so many Burgundy resemblances. It's however a bit too soft in structure - rather polish and a bit alcoholic on the last meters. Better nose than taste - but still a good wine.

2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cote de Py Javernieres

Very intense wine. A bit fleshy side of Beaujolais with domination of black fruits. Taste is spending, with solid energy and lush seductive appeal. I think a year in the cellar can bring out more red appealing fruit.

2008 Gevrey-Chambertain, Philippe Pacalet, (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Red fruit combined with black cherries, smoke and flowers. Good wine.

(Alexandre Jouveaux labels are small arts pieces)

Whites

2009 Alexandre Jouveaux, Vin de table

Feels like drinking directly from the press. The wine is not fully ready, but it’s a fun study. The fruit is incredible pure, juicy with freshly pressed pear/apple zest, yeasty notes, vanilla and Macadamia nuts. On the tongue there is currently a bit too much baby fat, giving the structure an elastic feel, but with air it’s constantly firming up with higher presence of firm acidity and minerality. Give it a year more in the bottle. Despite it’s age – I loved this kind of wine, as there is so much life here.

2008 Corton Charlemagne, Benjamin Leroux, Bourgogne (@ Restaurant Geranium)

A big fat and juicy wine - "dress to impress". It’s very seductive with its lush profile, but maybe a bit too cheerful on the oak, which oozes too much candy sweetness. However it did extremely well with the food – which was “Lightly smoked potatoes, dried peas & lovage”

2009 Terrassen 1958, Martin Arndorfer, Kamptal (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Without food it’s a wine almost too austere, as it’s so dry and sleek. But it really came to life with the dish: Small Scallops, horseradish, chervil stalks & Cucumber, which tempered the note of fennel (which I don’t like), to be replaced my greenish apples scent and mild spices. It’s also a very mineral driven wine. Rather nice.

2009 Alexandre Bain “Mademoiselle M”, Pouilly-Fumé

Sauvignon with oak and even a small part of residual sugar – forget it. But hey – this is an interesting wine. There is a slight oxidation to the wine, providing some smoke to a fruit core of peach, kiwi and some caramel sensations. It’s a rather complex wine, which has the ability to play on many different strings. Taste is really rewarding with that slightly oxidation, yet sleek enough to preserve allure. I liked it so much, that I decided to use as an alternative on Christmas Eve and my my, it was spot on.

2006, Aldo Conterno Bussiador (@ a wine battle)

A wine dominated with tons of oak. It gives away strong scents of nail polish and Hubba Bubba bubble gum. Taste is more of the same and you are almost knocked over with the oak infection. This wine is not in balance IMHO.

2004 Ca’del Bosco, Chardonnay (@ a wine battle)

You should know that 4 whites were presented at this wine battle. We knew what was coming, just not the serving order. Everyone guessed white Burgundy here (Leflaive). There is fair clarity and that oily sensation of honey melon with a touch of melted butter. Taste is awarding an pretty easy to drink. However, the minerality is too low, which turns the wines energy level down and makes it loose nerve. I would never buy such a wine, but it’s should be noted it has several applauses around the table and from an objective view – it’s well made wine.

So as flight one didn’t reveal any Leflaive wines – they had to be here.

2004 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet “Les Folatières” (@ a wine battle)

Pardon my French, but this wine smelled of horse piss. What the hell went wrong here? Off bottle or not – it was impossible to continue the journey. I taste it once and it was in fact better, with some clarification going on – but my Good that nose…..????

2005 Leflaive “Puligny-Montrachet” (@ a wine battle)

To smell this wine in comparison is of course a relief. But it’s a fair wine – not a great wine. This is reminder why I am not that much a white Burgundy fan. When you get that classic oily, flower, buttery, vanilla and melon thing (that’s exactly what you get here), I get really bored. There HAS to be some sort of edge –which was not the case. Too bad really, as I consider Leflaive a magician.

Sparkling

2009 Grainds de Folie, Bruno Rochard (@ Restaurant Geranium)

Very flowery and perfumed. Not so much dept, but has good clarity and drinking pleasure with a delightful easy going style. Could be nice on a summer day.

SAV, Sparkling birch Juice, Sweden (@ Restaurant Geranium)

One of the weirdest wines I have ever tasted. Kinky!!! sure it’s funny to be teased and loosen up when you are having dinner, but I can’t take it as a serious wine. The aromas is very funky and smell of yes: Birch and wet trees.

(Hard work)

That’s all I remember. I know I have missed a few…but c'est la vie

Links:

Restaurant Geranium

Wine Bar Ved Stranden 10

Fiskebaren

Restaurant Relæ