In April I
visited Champagne again. I couldn’t help noticing that prices on grower
Champagne are on the rise. Yet the increasing price curve on the most
innovative growers in Champagne are not a singular phenomenon. Prices on
quality wines are in general increasing and it rarely helps when the production
is low. Just think of Burgundy, where some of the most prestigious names are
separating themselves to an exclusive club of consumers.
Overall I
don’t like to talk about prices on wines. “Numbers” is what I do for a living
and wine has always acted as a contrast to my work life. I like to keep it that
way. Money is a weird thing really – we know it matters, but to start a debate
about what’s the right way to use them is more about moralizing. What people do
with their own money is their choice. Wine is good example. All passionate wine
lovers, knows it’s a form of madness to spend a ridiculous amount money on
fermented grape juice. You might have done a great investment, but at the end
of the day you are willing to
“destroy” that investment by drinking it. Yet we (us wine geeks) know
that there is more to it than just grape juice with alcohol.
I often see
people complain about price developments on wine. I am no different and guilty
as sinned. In fact it happened in Champagne. Some of my favourite producers are
starting to be in a price range, where I have to think twice. If I decide to
buy expensive wine I just don’t buy a six-pack without blinking. But owing just
one or two bottles of a very expensive wine is actually another dilemma. You
just don’t serve these wines on a Tuesday evening with a Spaghetti Bolognese.
No! You save them for a special occasion. This is okay to some degree, as we
have always split wines into different categories and somehow we find wines
that suit that Tuesday evening. However when you put the wine on an exclusive
price pedestal you build high expectations. You even make sure it’s served with
the right people, as you rarely drink such expensive wines alone – or do you? I
think most want to share a potential big experience with other people and this
is one of the beauties with wines; friendship and the social element. Yet it’s
also a bit weird, because you will probably only get one or two glasses. You
even make sure the wine is matched with the right food, chose the right day -
where “equivalent” wines are present. Now there is absolutely nothing wrong
with looking forward to taste a special wine. Not at all – I embrace this
myself. However I have never felt comfortable of tasting wines, where I somehow
beforehand are almost nervous on the outcome. Tasting wines naked, being
relaxed and just interact with the wine and having a good natural flow appeals
far more to me.
Yet the
spike in prices also have a positive flip side for me. When a wine breaches
your own price limits the initial thought is: DAMN! Now I can’t buy Soldera or
Jacques Selosse anymore and this is not so easy to digest. For me it helps
thinking that if I die tomorrow I won’t die thirsty of either Soldera or
Selosse. Yet somehow I just forget about them. They kind of slip my mind and
the reason is simple. Wine-Life goes on. It’s like my consumer behaviour
automatically guides me in a different direction and my curiosity likes that. It
says something about how many talented winemakers there are out there and how
many I haven’t even tasted yet. I live
for curiosity and taking a stance on prices helps me stay alert.
You might
already have guessed this introduction is leading up to a wine, where I will
touch upon its price tag. This wine is the result of being curious and of
course having good wine dealers, who buys the good stuff and knows your palate.
The price here is low – but the quality is outrageous. I couldn’t help to
speculate if this wine was served blind to me. I would have compared it with
some of the best white wines I have tasted from Burgundy, which are easily +150€.
But this one is roughly €23…if you can find it that is.
2012 Jean-Marie
Berrux “La Petite Têtu”
Grape: 100%
Chardonnay
Location:
Burgundy, Corpeau,
Slightly south of Puligny.
Vineyard:
1,5 ha
Vinification:
Oak (20% new) + only indigenous yeats.
Viticulture:
Biodynamic
Other:
No sulphur during vinification – only at bottling (approx 18mg/l)
Production:
7-8.000 bottles
Glass: Tasted two times – One time from Zalto Burgundy
and second time from a Spiegelau Burgundy glass in a restaurant). Zalto was
miles better (no surprise) and lifted the wines freshness and minerality,
whereas in Spiegelau it was a bit oilier and heavier in style.
I didn’t
write any notes on it…I never do that anymore, but I remember it very well. I
also remember my wife and I drank if faster than we normally do. My wife even
said, that she was tired and not so much into wine this evening. She changed
her mind. The wine is utterly sensual. It has a mind-blowing elastic feel as
soon as you stick your nose into the glass. On one hand its oily and buttery,
which sometimes can go deadly wrong with these white Burgundy and not something
I favour. Yet it has a combo of wild yeast flavours, honey, brioche and lots of fresh tickly fruit with sensual
apple cider associations, which creates the most divine balance. The touch of
oak is also there, yet only secondary with sensuality and so well balanced. The
taste is round and lush – just like the nose, yet filled with enormous
minerality, life and bite. What a wine. Hunt it if you can find it.
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