Sunday, January 24, 2010

1999, San Giusto a Rentennano, "Percarlo"

Okay, I wish I could tell you anything good about this wine, as I really like Percarlo.

Percarlo tends to be absolutely brilliant when it’s released and then go into a big sleeping phase. Of course this is not only common for Percarlo, but a phenomenon known to happen to almost all great wines. Based on my previous Percarlo experiences, there will be an almost 100% guarantee, that this will happen and it will hit the wine really hard. The real challenge for Percarlo is however; how this phase will actually transform the wine. My experience tells me, that Percarlo naturally looses some fresh fruit “baby fat” when its starts to get some age to it. This is necessarily not a bad thing, but unfortunately the baby fat often contains lush ripe red cherry fruit, which over time is replace with black cherries and spices. That’s exactly how the 1999 felt like and I might have caught it at the wrong day/time, but my God it was boring. Never did it do anything that the monotone black cherry dance, with some thyme notes to it. The taste is even worse, strong, heavy and not particular inspirational.
I think I have a bottle or two left of this 1999, plus a six pack of the 2001 & 2004 and I suddenly feel concerned.

Even if it’s comparing apples vs bananas, I can’t help think of my Friday Champagne (Selosse, V.O.) and this glass of wine. The Champagne was an ongoing delightful drinking pleasure, where you couldn’t wait to get the next fill. This felt like being in fourth division, just waiting to get over with it.

I am beginning to wonder, if I care to drink anything but Champagne.

Tested in 3 different glasses: Zalto Bordeaux, Riedel Sommeliers Bordeaux Grand Cru and Antinori Sangiovese. This small test will be included in the material for
“The ultimate glass test”


Anonymous said...

Oh, oh, not a good sign! You`re lost to CHAMPAGNE

Anyway there are worser things.......

Martin "BerlinKitchen"

Thomas said...


I think I am lost, Martin – there is no way back now.

You know how much I like Percarlo. Remember the 1997, when it was released? I don’t think it will ever be as good as back then.

But yes…there are worse things in life. I hope to eat my words back, as I have a stash of them left….even have a 2004 Magnum of this stuff.

Take care.


Voodoo Child said...

I´m with you there Thomas, not on Percarlo but other Italians some way very boring and monothome, this never happens to the REAL Champagnes!

Daniele said...

As I am going through my wine i just opened I was wondering if anybody had anything to say about it. And here you are, your blog and your thoughts on Percarlo '99.
That is what I am drinking tonight, i opened it 1/2 hr ago and I immediately thought it had gone bad!!! maybe aged too long, so I waited and re-tasted it: nothing! oh no no, so I google it and I find your blog...i am sharing your same feelings about this vintage of Percarlo, not enthusiastic at all. Thanks for your thoughts.Ciao.

Thomas said...

Hi Daniele,

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on 1999 Percalo.

As said, Percalo is a wine with lots of moods and phases.

I will do a small wrap-up on some of the other wines I have tasted in April/May shortly and this will include the 2001 Percarlo. A spectacular wine – opened directly from the wine cabinet (of course a bit too cold) but so much red fruit. Lovely and for me one of the best Percarlo’s ever made.

Best from,