Zalto Slim Line

Warning: High geek factor!!!!

About a month ago a good friend served me some nice wines in the Zalto Burgundy glass. I am confident this glass has to be my favourite wine glass of all wine glasses, simply because it’s the glass I wash up mostly. For the type of wines I drink this glass brings out - like no other - aromatic beauty, zippy freshness and superb handling.

Back to my good friend, who was kind to pour me some Chambolle-Musigny from Pacalet in this glass, which I quickly discovered had quite a significant profile than I was used to. The difference was the weight and far slimmer stem. The handling was stunning – even better than the glass I already considered close to perfection.

Things is – when the glass is as light as this, it’s really more about the wine than the glass, because you feel so close to the wine. With this ultra slim stem, the glass feel like a really tight, vibrant and energetic bow ready to show its arrow.  

Being the glass geek I am, I had to know more about this glass and this line in general. Was it just a result of individual hand made glasses or had Zalto in fact changed something?

I contacted them and immediately received a reply back with the message;  Zalto are always trying to make their glasses better and it could very well be that my “old” glasses was higher in weight". They also wrote that there are limits on how light they go, because the glass will become unstable and eventual break.

Now that reply was enough for me to make a reservation on a six-pack (don’t tell my wife) with a small desire of Zalto selecting the thinnest stems available.

4 days later the package arrived with 6 perfect Zalto Burgundy glasses. Now I have tried all 6 glasses since and they are absolutely brilliant.

Now I have never weighed my glasses, but borrow my mother in law baking weight to see how light these beauties were. The 6 new Zalto Burgundy glasses I received ranged from 111g <> 122g, where my old Zalto Burgundy ranges from 158g <> 200g.

Other glasses and their weight (I haven’t weighed all of them, but in general the number refers to the lightest glass I have)  

Spiegelau Adina Burgundy: 155g

Riedel Sommeliers "Burgundy Grand Cru": 212g

Spiegelau Willsberger collection "Burgundy": 205g

Zalto Bordeaux: 157g

Zalto Champagne: 88g

I think was all from the Geek-cave. 

Take care out there ;-).

Religious

Are you a religious wine drinker?  I would guess your answer would be, “NO!” – or am I wrong? However I think you are, more than you know.

Religious is a word, which doesn’t rime anything groovy when it comes to wine. Religious wine drinkers are just too much – out of reach and preaching constant meaningless mumbo-jumbo.

If you are an atheist you will most certainly not feel comfortable in a religious crowd of wine drinkers. Thing is with the religious – not only do they understand their own religion, but they are also far more narrow minded and will also look down upon those who just don’t “get it”. 

Religious wine drinkers are currently linked to the natural wine movement. Before that it was the biodynamic thing – the Rudolf Steiners disciples and it probably still is. The natural wine drinkers are here in the Danish press being portrayed as the “hooded”, which isn’t exactly positive.  As I do indeed drink a natural wine I find myself being defined as someone who was brought up with parents, who only made food over open fire, had frizzy hair and bad breath.

Natural wine drinkers praise wines, which are beyond flawed with vinegar profiles, smells of cow shit and have volatile acidity. Despite their enthusiasm we doubt their motives. They have to be under some kind of spell to praise such crap. They have to be disciples of some kind of movement. They have to be religious.

Seriously?

Could it be religious just happens to be the same as passionate? Because what does it mean to be religious?

If you Google it in Danish + Wikipedia (directly Googled translated from Danish to English) it comes up with this definition:

A religious experience is an experience that leaves a human experience religion immediately. The experience is not in itself dependent on either faith or thinking. Not more than eg. a color experience a musical experience or a humorous experience it. The question of faith comes first into the picture afterwards, when considering whether the experience was authentic or a hallucination.

A religious experience might be something big and dramatic as such. A miracle or a revelation, but the vast majority of religious experiences are quite undramatic, which may not even be "done" something. These experiences do not affect primarily through individual experience strength, but rather through their quantity. For many people, religious experiences something everyday that occurs many times each day  

So basically religious is a range of experiences you can’t explain. The only sort of proof you have, when it comes to wine, is the string of these occurrences is affecting your emotions. You will most certainly be curious to find out what specifically happened and see if you can bring that feeling forward again and again. What often happens in this process is the search for patterns and meaning – and sometimes also a conclusion. But not always do you find a conclusion. Some experiences are left open, surrounded by mystery and fascination.

Let’s take one step further.

In a weekly Danish radio show called “Spirit in the bottle” (link – it’s in Danish) the host, Poul Pilgaard Johnsen explains how he can’t exactly pin point what makes wine almost feel like a drug. Yet he has never taken drugs, but to him wine can bring him to a state of ecstasy and trance.

I feel the same way – and I don’t have any proof. I just know that the wine fix is highly addictive.

But in fact the evidence is right in front of us.

"The word flavour stands for the composite sense

of taste, smell and 'mouth feel' in the field of research,

which is about perception with the intake of food and drink (called

»The sensors'). Flavour is thus an expression of a

Integration of the three primary sensations and

takes place in the brain, "

"The processed information sends further smells into the

Limbic cortex in the part of the brain called the 'limbic

system '. The limbic system also contains also the

basic emotions (aggression, joy, etc.). For more than

one sense, scents and feelings therefore closely intertwined. "

(Source: Danish Chemistry No. 11,: Flavour - chemically (II))

I am not surprised that our impression of flavour is closely linked to our limbic system. Think about it. What was it that got you interested in wine and keep you coming back for more and more? It’s our senses and our emotions. Things we can’t always control, because they react spontaneously. These are the catalysts behind middle ages men like me, will describe a liquid with phrases like; mind blowing, emotional, seductive, sexy, weightless…etc.    

Wine appreciation is born religious – fostering the passion all wine lovers posses. It’s the unexplainable what eventually fascinates us – encapsulates and intoxicates our passion. The opposite is predictable reason and control. Seems like it, because it’s so much easier to communicate and handle – especially if you write for a consumer audience.

But who the hell care about reason and control in wine? Wine is bigger than an Excel sheet – otherwise I wouldn’t even bother to write these lines.

As I see it, we are desperately trying to remove the unexplainable (and potentially the religious) – aren’t we aware that our minds are constantly under influence? Is it science fiction that people can have fluctuating moods?   

My confession is that I am a religious wine drinker and so are you – or maybe you just forgot.

AMEN.

The New Elvis

Mankind like to compare – even find suitable Benchmarks. It’s everywhere, from the financial markets, electronic-and music industry. Even wine. It’s the result of data analysis and an easy way to judge performance, strength and potential.  

In the financial markets, portfolio managers are being judged against leading benchmark indexes, maybe even competitors – specific designed to match their risk mandates and focus areas. Did you over or underperform?

The iPhone set new standards when it was launched. It’s nearest rivals have ever since been labelled as the new iPhone killer.

The music industry builds up their heroes and stars. Put them on pedestals and maybe burn their fame down again. Some survive, despite rough times and end up as legends. Some don’t even need much time to establish their status because their talent had enough uniqueness. Just think of Jimmy Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison and lately Amy Winehouse all died at an age of 27 years. These legends become benchmark icons – often ruling as kings & queens of a certain genre or time period. We like to compare new comers against these peers, despite it’s clings like a cliché to hear the new Beatles every second year.

For the critiques, whom are often behind such statements, it’s a logical equation as the simple comparison makes it easy for the public to understand the scope of the “new” and it’s potential.

Yet the benchmarking are often in risk of fading out, becoming that false and naïve cliché, because it’s somehow never the new Beatles, Michael Jackson, Elvis or Madonna. If new artists are constantly able to become equal clones to their Iconic Idols it underlines that our presumed King or Queens weren’t a reference point after all.  Those who survive and make it into the hall of fame possessed enough uniqueness, defining their own sound and storytelling. They eventually became a new reference point.

In wine we also know about Benchmarking. Some wineries or producers are legends. The thumb rule for possessing the legendary labelling seems to emerge from impressive historical track records. If you want to make it historical in wine you have to make sure your wines will age gracefully. That’s the ticket to legendary status. Worlds most sought after wines are often those who comes with a considerable costs – those who make it into Christie’s most extravagant wine auctions. Once you are there you are a potentially what we in the “Old world” would call a Benchmark wine.

The battlefield in wine are however not as even as even as one should think; because these legends comes with considerably costs and are not like music for everyone. Even some are not interested at all in these wines and don’t pay much attention to them or the fact that they are a reference point.

Right now we are seeing some of the most innovative restaurants around the globe slowly phasing out old conventional legends. In my own backyard, restaurant Noma (and several others following) are now only serving natural wines.  

Most wine lovers would acknowledge historical references, but somehow you are never better than your latest release and there is no guarantee that you even liked the style, “sound” or “genre” of a wine.

Personally benchmark legends don’t interest me much. Seeing wine from a zero angle scope is much easier. Not taking a quality measurement against myth and historical tales makes it much easier to level with wine. It doesn’t matter to me whether a wine can last 200 years or 4 hours. I care about the experience here and now - life in the wine and drinking pleasure….and so many other things.

Benchmarking in wine is however an interesting descriptor, as you can quickly draw attention to a known/style, which your audience can relate to. However if you really fall in love with a wine/producer I would bet it always had enough personality and didn’t needed to be compared against a reference point.

I am about to introduce a new producer to you and 4 debut wines. I found myself benchmarking and comparing him, to get a feel of both overall quality and potential.  My inspiration to this introduction came from hearing myself saying; is this the New Elvis, Sting or maybe Stevie Wonder? It’s obviously not and that’s good news because this is something I haven’t seen before. Potentially a new style and reference point – who knows? I can tell you this much, that I found myself almost lost for laudatory words. 

Yann Durieux is his name and he makes wine under the Domaine name of Recrue des Sens. I have limited information – only from various Internet sites, blogs and the Danish importer did I learn that he worked seven years for Julien Guillot - a name that rings very good bells in my ears. There is also a connection to Prieuré Roch as I understand it, where he still helps out and get some of the used barrels from. Some also comes from Alain Burguet. He works purely organic and natural wine ideology. He is located in the village of villers-la-faye in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits region, which isn’t exactly known to foster the most pompous Cru-appellations. Yet it doesn’t really scare me off, because I have learned to pay more attention to the singularity skills of a grower and not appellation hysteria.

2010 is the debut release from Yann Durieux and he currently have 3ha of land, but will slowly obtain more land. Current production is about 6.000 bottles, where 50% goes into his Aligoté “Love and Pif”.

These are the wines I have tasted from Recrue des Sens and I haven’t written any notes, so this is from memory.

Red and “Manon” was tasted from Zalto Burgundy – “Love and Pif” were tasted from Zalto Unisersal

Reds:

2010 Black Pinot

A very light and fragile red Burgundy wine, only possessing 11% of alcohol. There is initially a beautiful fragile raspberry scent coming forward, but eventually also notes of forest floor and herbs blends in. It creates a little bit more rustic feel, but also creates good baseline and character. Overall it’s still so fragile and drinks really well.

2010 Les Grands Ponts

 “Serve it on a good day” – that was the sort of only instruction I got, from the importer – other that he thought it would be something for my palate. Well – I first of all served it on a fruit day, but had no idea what waited. I have to say, pinned to the chair with a lie detector wrapped around my arm that this is one of the most emotional and intoxicating wines I have tasted in a while.  Despite I can dissect it for you – as I have written no notes – I still dream about it though it has been 14 days since I last tasted it. I remember is as extremely floral with roses and raspberry wrapped in an extremely intense – yet overly weightless feel. The structure of the wine is exceptional elastic; ballerina light on it toes, yet with enormous persistence and juiciness. I was blown away by it’s beauty and harmony and I felt like pouring the whole bottle down in one go – which was easy with it’s 12% alcohol. It’s not a cheap wine - but my God it’s worth every penny. 

Whites:

2010 Manon (Chardonnay)

If a white Burgundy – especially when crafted from Chardonnay – are to win my heart it has to find a soil intensity or a really refined a elegant style. This wine does exactly that and its uncompromising mineral spine made me think of Alexandre Jouveaux and it’s raciness made me think of young Chablis. It’s also a wine, which feels really young with lots of potential. It’s still flavoured with lots of citrus fruits, yet if you raise it in temperature it   unrevealed some more creamy notes of fresh butter and yeast components. The taste is really clean and delicious. I would love to taste it again with a year or two more age.

2010 Love and Pif (Aligoté)

My experience with Aligoté is pretty limited – so when saying this has to be one of my absolute favourite versions it doesn’t really mean that much. It’s a very playful wine, which on one side has one hell of a tickly freshness with newly pressed apples, lime and lemon peel. On the other hand – and it actually flips back and forth - it has some pretty sensual sweet notes, emerging from Champagne yeast, vanilla and overly juicy pears and peaches. The drinking pleasure is in the category; “Finish me and open a bottle more”….brilliant wine. (tasted it two times btw – one time in a restaurant (simple Spiegelau Authentis) and one time at home from Zalto Universal. The experience in Zalto was so much better.    

Outsider

It’s a shame I don’t drink more Riesling. 

In some aspects Riesling appeals far more to me than Chardonnay does (without bubbles). If to rudely generalize; Riesling are an ultra clear non-oaky expression, strong terroir defined wines with the high acidity (which I am a sucker for). If to stay on the generalizing string, that is far more interesting than the somewhat monotone melon, oaky and oily expression of Chardonnay. That’s why I never found true love for white Burgundy, but my compromise eventually founds its way into Champagne. That said – during my journey into natural wine country, I have found lots of wines, which deviates from this generalizing description and made me happy.

My appetite for Riesling has dropped dramatically since this Champagne and natural wine bug started. The German Riesling are not exactly known for their low sulphur levels, yet I can’t say that I have had many experience where the wines actually stinks of SO2. So what's the fuzz? In most cases with German Riesling, they are simply too square and lifeless for my palate. Their structure are too polished/ “slippery”, taking energy down and headache up, which in most cases are sings of too high sulphur. And if you are a sucker for energy (like me) it’s not a relationship that will last.

Having said that and before this develops into a “polish-my-own-halo-post” - If you haven’t been exposed to a lot of natural wine, I am not sure you see it this way. My good friend Martin from Berlin, whom I consider be a very skilled taster and an expert in Riesling for sure doesn’t see it this way. It’s important for me to stress out that my taste is not the right one – it never is – but my starting point is very different, because I drink so many low dozed SO2 wines.

Anyway a German Riesling without SO2 – sounds like paradise to me. The paradox is that the wine is categorized as a “Landwein der Mosel” because the local authorities don’t approve wines of this low SO2. Who cares about appellations snobbism, let’s jump onboard.

2011 Rita & Rudolf Trossen, Riesling “Schieferstern Zero Zero”

Blend: 100% Riesling

Terroir: Slate

Winemaking: Biodynamic

Alcohol: 12,05%

pH: 3:15

Free SO2: 0 mg / l

Total SO2: 1 mg / l

Production: 400 bottles

Glass: Zalto Universal

Trossen have been experimenting with zero SO2 since 2009 but at first had doubt’s it could be successful. Tasting the zero sulphur wines from Jura & Burgundy finally convinced Rudolf Trossen and in 2010 he released his first non-SO2 wine with the 2010 "cuvée Pyramide PUR". Only 15L was made.

As you can see from the image there is a capsule on the bottle and still some carbon dioxide left. Give it some air and it’s gone after 30 minutes or so.

I was struck by the crystalline clarity of this wine. Ultra refined fresh water appeal, like drinking directly from the mouth of a water well. Notes like tulips, citrus, greenish apples and freshly washed linens in cool spring air emerged and all together shapes an extraordinary elegant and pure wine. The taste is utterly sensational, despite being really young  - mineral extravaganza with a vibrant, frisky and agile acidity. Nothing sticks out – everything is so beautiful toned creating blissful harmony. What a wine – what a Riesling. Absolutely stunning wine.

Ps. My wife who knows absolutely nothing about wine (I have given up), but in general hates oaky white wines (she calls them unnatural) – thought this wine was one of the best white wines she had ever tasted.

Thank you Ine & Ries for this bottle – you are too kind.

Overdone?

I can never get tired of Champagne. Not only is it a divine drink, but also something, which constantly are able to challenge my own palate. Whenever asked about “what’s your favourite Champagne producer?” I can’t give a name or a clear answer. Fact is, that I have several favourites and it’s not always about “best” in terms of big and complex, but also occasion, food, weather and my own mood. If you have read some of the previous post on this blog, you should know what I am talking about.

However if I should pin point a recent preference it would be that I am more and more drawn to Champagne, which reflects ultra clear flavours, soil tension and energy. I like nature’s brutality more than a wine making style. But already here I find myself in a grey area, because I can find endless days, where a wine making styled Champagne with velvet coated oak sweetness can make me smile and fulfil my needs.

When I first tasted the 2006 Blanc de Noir from barrel with Olivier Collin I was overly ecstatic about it. Since then – this previous soil preference has set it and I have found this Champagne a bit extreme. Recently some friends have chimed in with positive reports on this Champagne so I thought it was time to revisit.

2006 Ulysse Collin “BdN”

Blend: 100% Pinot Noir

Terroir: Chalk mixed with heavy clay

Vineyard: Les Maillons in the village of Barbonne-Fayel

Vines: Planted in 1971

Dosage: 2,4 g/l

Alcohol: Picked @ 12,2% finished @ 13,6% after the second fermentation

Other: The ’06 are the debut release for this Champagne

Glass: Spiegelau Adina red wine/water goblet + Adina Burgundy

Source for details are: Champagneguide.net

I have to mention the colour, which is truly amazing (I will have an image next time I taste it). It’s nearly a rosé, but with a dimmed saturation. Olivier kept some the natural colour, which was a result after the pressing and it just tells you that the Champagne is picked from really ripe grapes.

Well it’s certainly better than it were just upon it’s release. Back then a really troublesome note of ginger and bitter alcoholic notes spread like a disease all over the Champagne. It brought flashbacks to the Viognier grape and especially some of these very alcoholic driven Condrieu cuvées.

The first pour (besides that colour) wasn’t a treat either – or was it? Well…it’s certainly a Champagne which will pull down your pants, knocks you backwards invite you to a tongue kiss, if you’re in such mood. If you fancy some foreplay you have to sit it down and serve some food. I had a good friend stopping by – so I served a simple selection of duck pâté, salted almonds, pata negra and comté cheese. It made a huge difference and turned down the volume of notes dominated by; caramelized honey, apple pie, burned butter, vanilla, quince and plums. It’s extremely concentrated, both on the nose and palate, but the food prevents it from this slight alcoholic burn on the last meters. It’s also pretty complex  - a real “sniffer and you can actually find a lot of layers. Yet very few of these are coming from a natural soil element, as I see it. This is more about wine making than a strong terroir orinated Champagne. I rested one third of the bottle, which I had two days later, where it had transformed almost into a dessert wine, with a fair amount of brown sugar and cinnamon notes

Overall it’s not something I am hugely in love with, but I can easily see myself serving this Champagne as the last Champagne of the night with a selection of cheeses. If to serve it like it did - with snacks, it will not be that successful if you intend to continue with more Champagne…if so they have to be equal in density and I can think of only Selosse or Krug to match such concentration. 

Note: The subsequent releases of the BdN (it’s now labelled as “Les Maillons”) are made in a more conservative style. 

2013 Terres et vins de Champagne

The 5^th edition of Terres et vins de Champagne will take place on April 22^nd 2013.

A must for real Champagne lovers.

Wintertime is Champagne time

I have recently discovered that my seasonal wine preferences don’t always comply with the unwritten wine rules.

I don’t know about you, but when studying to become a wine geek I adapted to some habits, which seemed pretty logic at the time. I had to do with seasonality and the wine we chose to drink as the ambient conditions changed. It bounced perfectly with the rhythms of the foods that were in season and the culinary traditions, which were associated.

As the weather turned colder here at my latitudes, the food increased its density and structure. Likewise wines were acquired to match these dishes and they were often bolder, darker, more alcoholic and with higher masculinity. We need wines that can warm our body and souls. Modern mankind are raised with seasonality behaviour - just think about how fashion collections changes from fall/winter vs spring/summer collection; fabric, weight and colours.

Christmas eve here in Denmark is often pinpointed to be the fulcrum of winter with duck, rich brown sauce and the tricky warm red cabbage, which could kill any wine match. When I think of this evening I often get an association of two fat pigs dancing tango in a sauna. Doesn’t sound right or groovy – does it? There has to be an alternative.

As the daylight increased and milder weather is on the rise it’s logical to turn the preferences towards crispy “white” offerings, which for my part have included more and more Champagne. Spring is a sensational period for Champagne with the entire flowering, crisp cool air, low humidity and the bright sunlight. I get Champagne thirsty just thinking of day in May with a glass of Champagne on the terrace.

However there is something I believe we have overlooked when it comes to winter and Champagne pairing – or maybe I should say I have made a personal discovery. The alternative I have been missing.

For my part Champagne works miraculously at wintertime. I think the primary reason for my appetite could be very well be that spring and wintertime feeds of the same concept of cool and clean air, which sets my association and needs towards cool tempered wines. Even the snowfall can contribute to my desires as the peaceful drops from the sky acts as a puritan association, where snow virtually advocates for innocence, crystallized clarity and a weightless elegance. Champagne fits the recipe.

So with this small intro I have some short and recent Champagne experiences for you:

2007 Demarne-Frison “Lalore” Brut Nature from Magnum.

Lovely crisp, pure and fresh Chardonnay with blessed yellow fruits and sizzling intense energy. Still on the young side, but I will never know how it will evolve because this was my one and only bottle.

2009 Dermane-Frison “Goustan” Brut Nature

I loved the ’07 of Goustan for it’s sensorial sweetness and lovely clay soil attack. The ’09 are shaped from the same frame, but it’s a fraction more intense, robust – but also tighter. The ’07 did however evolve quite quickly in the bottle, but I suspect the ’09 might take a year or two longer to reach the same state.  Lovely stuff.

NV Laherte BdB Brut Nature

I have had it so many times and I can never get tired of this minimalistic and honest expression.

NV Laherte “Les 7 (former Les Clos)”

Every time I open a new “Les 7” I tend to mark it as the best example I have ever tried. This is once again such an experience. I love how this Champagne are able to range from sophisticated spices, black tea notes, brutal soil attack and high pitched lime zest. Think this bottle was disgorged in early 2010.

2006 David Léclapart “L’Artiste”

Do you know the feeling of have a clear idea how a certain wine will taste like before you sniff the glass? I was 99% sure how the ’06 L’Artiste would be like before I put my nose into the glass as I have actually tasted it once before. I was wrong and I actually thought something was wrong with the bottle. Maybe I just have a bad memory, because there was indeed nothing wrong with either bottle or the Champagne itself. Rather accessible at the moment - insanely intense with supernatural energy and notes of pastry and apple zest. WOW!!!

“2009 Marie-Courtin “Concordance” Extra Brut

Third time I have this sans soufre Champagne and I am ecstatic about it. There is a tasting note here – which fits two of the experiences. But it’s the third @ restaurant Formel B, which are described here: It’s perhaps one of the freest Champagnes I have ever tasted and it’s so interesting. The notes are quit exotic, ranging from overripe peach, mango with deeper layers of walnuts and musk perfume. The taste has this elastic clay feeling and it’s so interesting. I can’t wait to taste it again – but I will wait 1 year.

2008 Marie-Courtin “Eloquence” Extra Brut

First time I taste this 100% Bdb from Marie-Courtin. First I should tell you that I have a thing with high acidity, which I tend to like and I am rarely scared by really high-pitched breeds. I find it exceptional interesting when the acidity cuts like a spine through the wine and associate either lemon or lime zest attack on the taste buds. For me it’s a tribute to the diversity and how such a Champagne can act as the perfect starter to a menu where the taste buds are kept fresh and alive – ready for more.  Les 7 from Laherte has it and this is also the case for Eloquence, which I absolutely adored. It started off with a combination of creamy sweet biodynamic notes - such as baby banana mixed with the vanilla notes from the oak and then leaning into pear, apple, lemon and lime. With air these oak perfumes retracts and is replaced with a grassier, mineral and stringent baseline, where this spinal acidity raises both intellect and energy. Fantastic Champagne. 

2006 Emmanuel Brochet “Vintage” Extra Brut

Lovely Champagne – with really robust core, delivering an intense and rich style. It's still on the young side, with greenish apple scents blending in, bringing clarity, backbone and a balanced counterweight to the bold expression. Give it 2-3 years and it will be perfect (I guess). 

1988 Krug

Where do Krug get this concentration from – do they have a secret formula? When having this served blind by my good friend Andreas in Stockholm, I wasn’t a second in doubt that I had Krug in the glass. I guessed ’88 or ’85. When you stick your nose into this thing it might come off as being a typical Champagne with some age to it. But after a few seconds the inner core hits you like a volcano and takes on a rollercoaster ride into power and elegance. What makes Krug stand out IMHO is it’s vinous side and the fact that you can raise it in temperature, serve it a bigger glass, make the bubbles die out and actually provoke even more complexity. That’s a sign of class and a kind of litmus test. Almost all of the pioneers Champagne names I love to drink can break this test – so can Krug, but many big house cuvée fails. 

NV Selosse “Substance”

(Disgorged April-2007)

For me Substance are like a Chameleon and a Champagne I always have hesitated to buy. Most of my experiences have left me with a “too much” and a somewhat confused impression. A common denominator has however always been an extremely expressive Champagne and this was also the case with this bottle, which I had in Stockholm. This experience is however – by far – the best Substance I have ever tasted. It was served right after 1988 Krug and sort of blended it and we didn’t “loose height”, just changed the scenery. This bottle has an outrageous scent of seductive evening perfume with deep vanilla, sweet woody amber-citrus notes with Selosse’s typical oxidized notes of overripe quince. There is an unheard balance to this Champagne, despite its density. Incredible vinous experience that you almost forgot you were drinking a Champagne. Can’t help to wonder if the trick with Substance is actually to give cellar it +5 years from disgorgement date?  

2004 Bérèche “Instant”

Was expecting a more evolved Champagne by now. But it’s actually pretty tight with bright acidity sparkle and lots of citrus fruits. Lovely clarity and more expressive above 14 degrees, but still it seems to be in a closed phase like many other ‘04s.

2006 Bérèche “Instant rosé No.1” Brut nature

Unbelievable Champagne and one of my all time favourite rosé Champagnes. Elegant, sleek, salty and so bloody tasty. I still have a few left and can’t wait to taste it again.

1999 Vilmart “Grand Cellier Rubis rosé”

Round, lush, pleasing and a Chamapagne I would describe as charming.  I however didn’t feel any intimacy “between us” and I found myself a somewhat distanced from it. The acidity is quit low and it lowers the friskiness. When combined with oak and too high dosage it becomes a blurry expression. I could easily drink it – and did with pleasure, together with some friends, but I had forgot about it soon after.  

2006 Georges Laval “Les Chênes”

Had high expectations, as it’s the third time I taste this magnificent Champagne. I think Laval have broken the sound barrier in ’06 and I hear rumours that his ‘08s are even better. I promised you short notes, so I will only say it’s unbelievable good Champagne. Still not as exotic as previous vintages, but I love this holding back, because underneath are all those layers constantly bringing complex layers to the package…..I’ll better stop here, because I will end up opening one of my very few bottles.

2006 Georges Laval “Les Hautes-Chévres”

Served in the same flight as “Les Chênes” together with my wine club. They actually preferred this one. I can’t choose, but can confirm that it was once again overly majestic and I can’t think of a BdN, which can deliver such a complex frame in ’06 vintage. Vincent – you rock, BRAVO!!!!

2008 Ulysse Collin “Les Roises”

A good Champagne and especially in the acclaimed ’08 vintage. I think Olivier Collin have taken a step in the right direction with splitting his BdB release into two separate cuvees. I would however – and I might have kinky preferences – would like to have even more brutality and soil attack here. It’s a bit “pretty” with smooth oak appeal and vanilla sweet fruit. However the product is sound and of great quality and even drinking well.