75% Pinot Noir
I like the style of this Champagne. It’s has a firm tallness with red fruit perfumes and one hell of a concentration. On top of this it holds salty aromas of raspberry skin, cherries and apricot. However – liking the style is not enough here. A window of spices evolves, which under normal circumstances tends to add to the warmth and make it more interesting towards food. But to me - these spices kills of the purity as they feel too herbal – almost vegetable in character and this ended up taking this Champagne not a few notches down – but from good to a pretty big disappointment. I sensed some of these impure herbal notes taking a step backward with the last two glasses – it could be a phase and it could just be young. I remain a bit concerned – but cellaring for 5 years. As with many 1999’s the concentration is impressive – but the acidity is fairly low.
The next day I had the 2006 David Léclapart “L’Amateur” – it was like coming home – but that’s a different story.