Friday, December 31, 2010

2004 Agrapart "Vénus", Champagne

(The new labels from Agrapart)

Blend: 100% Chardonnay
Ages of vines: 51 years (Planted in 1959)
Dosage: 0 g/l
Vineyard: “La Fosse” – soil: Mainly chalk
Production: Around 1.500 bottles
Bonus: Vénus was the name of the horse that worked in the vineyard. Vénus sadly passed away a few years back.
Glass: Spiegelau Adina “Red wine”

True, I have tasted 2004 Vénus about 4 times already, but this is the first real Tango @ Casa Mad Aboout Wine.

I presumed an extremely young Champagne would await me – and true this was the case, but it’s one of those Champagnes you simply have to take for a test drive in it’s youth in order to get that mineral sensation.

Already from glass one I encountered a vinous Champagne of incredible seamless personality and crystallized clarity. The nose is unbelievable complex and the first thing which came to my mind was a fresh breeze of the sea with seashells and seawater. It’s defiantly the result of an out of scale driver of chalk, which gives the wine this raw, pure feeling and the chalk note infects the wine from all corners. The other notes of the nose and small dozes of; straw, yellow cherries (in Denmark we call them; Moreller), toasted bread, butter, flowers, anise, and hay. The taste is one hell of a rush for those who adore soil expression and all the notes from the nose is almost transported to the finish line and crushed in a mineral and stony expression. The mousse breaks so gentle and releases the very last perfumes of minerality.

My God, what a Champagne. You almost have to pinch yourself in the arm, to be sure your not dreaming. It’s that good my friends – majestic, masterpiece…I almost lost for words here.



Anonymous said...

Great TN again! That mineral sensation is quite addictive so hands off is a challenge....
I had the 2002 Avizoize new years eve and was very surprised to begin with; it showed nothing but beautiful mineral/chalky notes and a touch of oak - no fruit at all which was very surprising considering the "rich" and "giving" 2002 vintage. After 4 hours it had opened up a lot more and it was just fantastic. Just thinking about how great these wines will be in 10 or 20 twenty years makes me shiver... Wish I could travel in time!

Best regards - Jes

Thomas said...

Thank you, Jes.

That’s the thing isn’t it? From now there will be so many goodies released from these talented Champagne producers and some of them will outlive us – or at least shine when we are too darn old to fully enjoy them.

Word is that most of 2002’s are closed – in fact they have been for some time now. Just had a friend who checked in on the 2002 Apôtre fra David Léclapart and it was indeed rather shy.

Have a nice weekend – and thank you for chiming in.


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