Monday, October 15, 2012

Short summary from a tasting

Some weeks ago, I had the chance to taste these wines @ Søllerød Kro, as my good friend Bent had invited a bunch of wine lovers.

First time in several years, I didn’t bring my camera and I must say it was so much more relaxing. So the images are from the archive.

(The colour of Les Ursules 2009 is something else)

Cedric Bouchard "Les Ursules" (2009)

Selosse 1996
Selosse les Carelles
Agrapart Experience 2007
Clos des Goisses 1996

Meursault Goutte d’Or Comte Lafon 2004
Meursault Genevrieres Comte Lafon 2004
Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee Maltroye 2007

Vosne Romanee 1 cru DRC 2008
Vosne Romanee les Genevrieres Leroy 2007
Clos de Vougeot Leroy 2001
Clos de Vougeot Meo Camuzet 2002
NSG les Cras Comte Liger Belair 2006
Grands Echezeaux DRC 2007
Echezeaux Comte Liger Belair 2007
La Romanee Comte Liger Belair 2003
Richebourg Hudelot Noellat 2007
Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Lucien de Moine 2005
Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Bertheau 2005
Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Roumier 2006

Billecart Salmon cuvee Elizabeth 1998

(Søllerød kro once again the scene for a tasting)

The 2009 Les Ursules is dynamite juice – so intense and precise. The ooze of tarragon, black cherries and diamond dust are thrilling. The colour was once again amazing.

1996 Selosse – one of the best examples I have had of this wine. Incredible deep Champagne with exotic fruits, buttery sensations and deep quince notes. The taste is shocking long and balanced. Perhaps the best 1996 out there.

1996 Clos de Goisses was completely wiped out by Selosse. I tried to give it some spotlight, as being in a flight with Selosse is mostly a losing game. It didn’t make the wine any better and it stands out as much more impure with low energy and way too much dosage.

Selosse "les Carelles". I am not 100% sure, but I think this was the 2004, which is blended with a bit of ‘03. It’s overwhelming concentrated with supernatural powers. Almost too much – but Selosse balances it out. It has Selosse typical oxidized character. I expressed my concern about a little too much wine making and trademark of Selosse and not the chalky Mesnil character. But then again – it’s his interpreting of the terroir and it also has a beautiful salty finish. I look forward to taste it again and especially follow it over a whole evening as the oxidized expression so often caves in with air.

I have looked forward to taste the 2007 Experience from Agrapart. First of all placing it in this flight with Selosse was a mistake in my opinion – they were completely opposites. Many around the table didn’t like it all – especially the nose. I loved it – absolutely fascinating stuff and I think Pascal have managed to bring out something very unique. It plays on many strings – ranging from sea breezes, floral waters, pineapple, mango, buttercup, mint and jasmine tea. It’s outrageous pure, zippy fresh and sleek. Magnificent stuff.

The whites were a big step down from Champagne and once again a white Burgundy disappointment.

I can’t go into all of the reds, but my favourite was without a doubt Leroy’s 2001 Clos de Vougeot. What a thrilling wine it was. Best because it had the best energy, vitality and purity and it actually reminded me most of natural wine.

Both DRC wines were also lovely. The 2008 Vosne Romanee had a sensational note of roses and the 2007 Grands Echezeaux displayed notes of tealeaves, pine needles, egg whites and rounded up with a adorable slim - yet very deep finish.

If to talk about disappointments, it would be the wines from Liger Belair. These wines were at all times very polished and oak driven (not alcoholic and extracted) and easily detected in the flights. I have tasted some of these wines before outside such a big line-up, where they did better with a very seductive appeal. They are however quite polished, which in this big line-up was not a plus. So it happens that blind tastings is not necessarily the “truth”, but of course an interesting study.

The last flight was the Amoureuses wines. I was expecting delicate and refined strawberry perfumes to burst out of the glasses. However, very dark, dense and somewhat clumsy wines was present in all three glasses. Around the table were several Burgundy fans, which all believed these wines (especially the ‘05s ) will shine in future. I am no expert here – I didn’t really like them now, but let’s see.

Overall I must say it was a very fine tasting.

Thank you Bent.


Anonymous said...


It was the Grand Echezeaux 2007 from DRC.

? with what should you pair the Agrapart 2007 there is nothing like this around which i actualy don't mind didn't like it much



Thomas said...

Hi Bent,

I have added “Grand”.

First of all – your pairing was excellent this night and no matter what you put up against Selosse, his wines will always stand out and take most of the spotlight.

If to think of the perfect match or flight duellist – I would include more wines, which of course was not possible at your tasting. For me the role of the terroir is really interesting.

As Agraparts new Experience is taken from plots from L'Avizoise and Minéral it could be rather interesting to taste it up against these two wines and why not add Venus? Experience is made without any kind of chaptalization – also in the second fermentation. He uses only the initial yeast and there is of course no dosage either or any fining or filtering.

I would make the same kind of “test” with Selosse “les Carelles” – testing it up against the remaining 5 new single vineyards (although not all have been released you currently buy a very limited case of all six).

Best from,

Thomas said...

"Grands" - not Grand ;-)

Anonymous said...

ja ja det er bare grande

wine online said...

I wish I could have taste it. Wines are always my favourite from the beginning when I tasted it first time. I tasted first time at one local restaurant.

Anonymous said...


Who is the maker of the glass in the second picture from the top (The colour of Les Ursules 2009 is something else)?

Thomas said...

@ Anonymous - Glass Spiegelau's handmade line "Adina" - the glass is called "Red wine (water goblet)"...i use this glass always for Champagne.

Best from,

Antti said...

Hi Thomas!

I've enjoyed reading your posts. You seem to concentrate on my two favorite areas (Champagne & Burgundy) and obviously taste a lot of interesting wines and make good points about them.

I have a question regarding the showing of Comte Liger-belair wines. Could the "polished" impression come from the fact that they entirely destem the fruit, whereas DRC and Leroy use whole-bunch fermentation?

Have you noticed that you would have some kind of preference for one style or other?

Thanks for the answer. Keep on writing!


Thomas said...

Hi Antti,

Thank you – nice you like to read to blog.

First of all – it’s true that Champagne is a big time favourite area. In some sense also Burgundy – but I would be even more ecstatic about these wines, if I could afford them. Some of these prestige bottles are luckily in the hands of some of my friends and I often get the chance to taste them. At the end of the line they are indeed fantastic wines.

It’s a very good question you ask. With the knowledge you have, you will probably also know destem or whole bunch fermentation is highly debated. I think it matters a great deal and you could be on to something here. At the end of the day I would always prefer whole bunch fermentation if the result “works as it intended”. By this I mean, adding more complexity to the wine, a lighter tone (by a more gentle fermentation process), some rose perfumes and little bit of tannin structure.

However I also believe the terroir comes into play and the work in the vineyards. So you can’t just say that it will works as intended with all producers. A producer like Armand Rousseau, which I have been lucky to taste a lot of before the prices went bananas, has a very fine tuned and delicate style and he destems the fruit.

Hope it found it useful – otherwise feel free ask if you have further questions.

Best from,