Some weeks ago, I had the chance to taste these wines @ Søllerød Kro, as my good friend Bent had invited a bunch of wine lovers.
First time in several years, I didn’t bring my camera and I must say it was so much more relaxing. So the images are from the archive.
(The colour of Les Ursules 2009 is something else)
Cedric Bouchard "Les Ursules" (2009)
Selosse les Carelles
Agrapart Experience 2007
Clos des Goisses 1996
Meursault Goutte d’Or Comte Lafon 2004
Meursault Genevrieres Comte Lafon 2004
Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee Maltroye 2007
Vosne Romanee 1 cru DRC 2008
Vosne Romanee les Genevrieres Leroy 2007
Clos de Vougeot Leroy 2001
Clos de Vougeot Meo Camuzet 2002
NSG les Cras Comte Liger Belair 2006
Grands Echezeaux DRC 2007
Echezeaux Comte Liger Belair 2007
La Romanee Comte Liger Belair 2003
Richebourg Hudelot Noellat 2007
Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Lucien de Moine 2005
Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Bertheau 2005
Chambolle Musigny les Amoureuses Roumier 2006
Billecart Salmon cuvee Elizabeth 1998
(Søllerød kro once again the scene for a tasting)
The 2009 Les Ursules is dynamite juice – so intense and precise. The ooze of tarragon, black cherries and diamond dust are thrilling. The colour was once again amazing.
1996 Selosse – one of the best examples I have had of this wine. Incredible deep Champagne with exotic fruits, buttery sensations and deep quince notes. The taste is shocking long and balanced. Perhaps the best 1996 out there.
1996 Clos de Goisses was completely wiped out by Selosse. I tried to give it some spotlight, as being in a flight with Selosse is mostly a losing game. It didn’t make the wine any better and it stands out as much more impure with low energy and way too much dosage.
Selosse "les Carelles". I am not 100% sure, but I think this was the 2004, which is blended with a bit of ‘03. It’s overwhelming concentrated with supernatural powers. Almost too much – but Selosse balances it out. It has Selosse typical oxidized character. I expressed my concern about a little too much wine making and trademark of Selosse and not the chalky Mesnil character. But then again – it’s his interpreting of the terroir and it also has a beautiful salty finish. I look forward to taste it again and especially follow it over a whole evening as the oxidized expression so often caves in with air.
I have looked forward to taste the 2007 Experience from Agrapart. First of all placing it in this flight with Selosse was a mistake in my opinion – they were completely opposites. Many around the table didn’t like it all – especially the nose. I loved it – absolutely fascinating stuff and I think Pascal have managed to bring out something very unique. It plays on many strings – ranging from sea breezes, floral waters, pineapple, mango, buttercup, mint and jasmine tea. It’s outrageous pure, zippy fresh and sleek. Magnificent stuff.
The whites were a big step down from Champagne and once again a white Burgundy disappointment.
I can’t go into all of the reds, but my favourite was without a doubt Leroy’s 2001 Clos de Vougeot. What a thrilling wine it was. Best because it had the best energy, vitality and purity and it actually reminded me most of natural wine.
Both DRC wines were also lovely. The 2008 Vosne Romanee had a sensational note of roses and the 2007 Grands Echezeaux displayed notes of tealeaves, pine needles, egg whites and rounded up with a adorable slim - yet very deep finish.
If to talk about disappointments, it would be the wines from Liger Belair. These wines were at all times very polished and oak driven (not alcoholic and extracted) and easily detected in the flights. I have tasted some of these wines before outside such a big line-up, where they did better with a very seductive appeal. They are however quite polished, which in this big line-up was not a plus. So it happens that blind tastings is not necessarily the “truth”, but of course an interesting study.
The last flight was the Amoureuses wines. I was expecting delicate and refined strawberry perfumes to burst out of the glasses. However, very dark, dense and somewhat clumsy wines was present in all three glasses. Around the table were several Burgundy fans, which all believed these wines (especially the ‘05s ) will shine in future. I am no expert here – I didn’t really like them now, but let’s see.
Overall I must say it was a very fine tasting.
Thank you Bent.