Saturday, February 21, 2009

2000 Vilmart, Couer de cuvée, Champagne

(Glass; Zalto)

Vilmart makes some of the most pleasing Champagnes out there and especially the Coeur de Cuvée is exceptional appetite. The 2000 is no exception – loaded with exotic juices; toasted oak, honey, Parisian flower shop and the finest vanilla from Polynesia. Had the wine been without bubbles, and I had been blindfolded, I would have guessed Comte Lafon “Mersault Charmes”. This highly seducing and rather in your face vanilla, combined with the sweet expressive oak flavours, is of course a charming bonus point – however, it takes a bit away from finesse and the intellectual factor. But still Vilmart prevails, and the Coeur de Cuvee shows it’s splendid and sophisticated purity, which makes you smile all the way to the finish line. Taste shows some exotic and maybe too dense signs and I would have preferred a more linear style. However – the underlying acidity is rather nice here, especially as the bubbles die down – so I am guessing it’s still on the young side and will evolve secondary nuances with time. Overall – I was very happy with the bottle.


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