Monday, June 1, 2009

NV, Emmanuel Brochet "Le Mont Benoit"

Emmanuel Brochet - never ever heard of this producer - can't even find anything in the various known databases I have access to, nor will googleling tell you much. But, when my favorite Champagne shop has a new Champagne producer in stock, I am always curious. So here is what I have been told about this producer from the Danish importer: Emmanuel Brochet - young handsome man of 30 years of age, owns 2 ha in Villers-aux-Noeuds. All 3 Champagne grapes are available, but dominated by Pinot Menuier and Chardonnay. Terroir is mainly argilo-calcaire with gravel soil on top and small pockets of Silex. East exposure - lots of wind and space. Available range of Champagnes changes from year to year - VV, BdB, BdN, Rosé and Vintage - all possible labels.

So how does it taste?  

This is one (among many) of the reasons why I gave up giving points to wine. Let's go one step back. The day before I had the 1998 Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée - a "serious" and complex Champagne, with several layers of complexity.  In the glass is a "simple" and utterly fresh Champagne. The simplicity of a score would have told you, that the Coeur de Cuvée was the best - but in reality my wife and I liked this one better - confused? It's really not that complicated.
It all comes down to the dilemmas which will occur when you set your mind on comparing and scoring everything. For me it's a delicate balance between what you as a taster is in need for, what food you eat, what mood you are in and even what the occasion for drinking Champagne was. This Champagne just hit that mix of variables, which made me smile from start to finish. The nose is one of those killer zippy fresh things (which I am a sucker for) with melon, flowers, citrus, granny smith apples, pear and even a touch of peach. There is no fuss here - the purity shines through every component of the wine and the taste even provides a vibrant high class acidity kick. Its simplicity is a mere result of its high profiled freshness, slim style and first sight easy understandable character. Make not mistake about its high quality though. Btw - it's without dosage and as I understand it, a blend of 2004 and 2005 vintage.

Tasted twice in May-2009

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