2011 Terres et vins de Champagne

(Get ready to revolt)

(Sorry to disturb - Pascal Agrapart)

(Pascal Doquet)

(Alexandre Chartogne)

(Les Barres and Le Heurtebises from Chartogne-Taillet)

All images are clickable and will open a larger format

It’s the morning after "Les ateliers Mets et Vins de Champagne" and the official Terre et vins de Champagne day. From my hotel window @ Hotel Castel Jeanson I could already observe buzzing activity as the growers started to line up the bottles. The background music was a mixture of on sight disgorged Champagne popping, blending in with bird singing. The visual scene offered blue skies, crisp spring air and all together it was not exactly lowering my appetite for Champagne, even though it’s only 09:30 in the morning.

When I signed in and got my booklet for the 2011 event, I could already feel that the 2011 would be far more packed compared to 2010, where Icelandic Volcano Eyjafjallajökull had an unfortunate lead role. It’s impressive to see how each Grower makes the same passionate speech about their wines, not matter if’s a professional or amateur person - and that’s from early morning to 17:00 where the event closes down.

For me Terre et vins de Champagne is not so much about going from one producer to another and write bulletproof tasting notes. That’s not what I do – there are so many other people, which are better than that – eg. Peter Liem and Brad Baker, which also attended the event. I find it difficult to absorb so many tasting samples under such circumstances. I see Terre et vins de Champagne as a tipping-my-toes-event of what I need to examine a bit closer when I return.

It works like this. I try to get a feel of the overall quality of the current vintages presented in vins clairs (2010 this year) and to take the temperature of how the different growers have evolved since last year. The latter is not always easy, as a producer might present a vintage, which is far more difficult than what he served last year. That was eg. The case with Agrapart, which presented his 2005’s, which is not on the same level as his staggering 2004 range. As these producers aren’t exactly known for complacency, there might be brand new cuvee’s to taste. So there is a lot of things to notice in order to get the impression right. Later on the day, I sporadic re-visit again. It might be something that I wish to compare – confirm and in most cases how a single Champagne stand out after having tasted so much.

With lunch, I always try 2-3 different Champagne.

I can’t go through all the producers, but no one should really be left out as all have something interesting to offer.

(Champagne Jeaunaux-Robin)

(Aurélien Laherte)

(Hotel Castel Jeanson in Aÿ)

(Olivier Horiot)

(Aÿ is hometown of Champagne Goutorbe)

Here are my overall impressions.

If to judge from Peter Liem’s article on the 2010 vintage and speaking to the producers and tasting their vins clairs, it seem quit clear that the 2010 vintage was a pretty challenging one. Benoît Tarlant told me how his Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier was ripped open as someone had whipped them. It was impossible to prevent botrytis from entering. The horror story can unfortunately be heard by many of the other producers and it’s the result of very dry spring and a devastating amount of rainfall between August 15 <> 17th, which amounted close to 85mm rain in 3 days (normal for the whole month is around 60mm).

Chardonnay is however a different story and was in general saved by millerandage and I found many vins clairs from Chardonnay pretty intense and promising.

One of my first stop was exactly about Chardonnay; Pascal Agrapart. His 2010 vins clairs are singing with confidence and it’s a journey I am used to, where you get the trio-treat of; Mineral, Avizoise first, then on of my darlings of the côte des blancs; “Venus”. All vins clairs are very linear – Avizoise takes in tropical fruits such as pineapple and mango and Venus is a soil driven beauty.

Another Pascal was next – namely Pascal Doquet. Once again a grower which is constantly smiling and there is an aura of friendliness around this guy. His 2010’s vins clairs are all Champagnes with strong personalities and from this harvest he is full blown certified organic Champagne producer. In vins clairs his rosé is the most wild one of them. I liked the perfumes better than the structure of this wine. The Vertus and Mesnil (both BdB) are both beautiful. In Champagne he presented the 2004 “Vertus” and 2002 "Le Mesnil-sur-Oger". Both are strong terroir specimens, where the Vertus show the spicy component of the clay soil and the Mesnil are a very vertical chalk driven Champagne. I preferred the “Mesnil”, however the “Vertus” is a gift to the “table” with its great structure and spice-box.

Already at the 2010 Terre et vins de Champagne, I was fascinated by the Champagnes of Chartogne-Taillet. Luckily we now have a Danish importer and I can’t wait to explore his Champagnes even more. Young Alexandre Chartogne was once again present. His 3 single vineyard Champagnes, which all hasn’t been released yet, where some of the most exiting Champagnes of the event. The 2007 Orizeaux (100% Pinot Noir) is sophisticated stuff and a Champagne filled with energy. It has this vivid and floating style, which is a trademark of Taillet, yet it’s poised with a strong soil footprint. "Le Heurtebises" is the name of the second single vineyard Champagne. It’s 100% Chardonnay from 43 year old vines and even though the 2007 served at this event is still awful young with plenty of lemon zest and mineral overload you once again sense the magnificent potential the Champagne which had lots of warm soil energy. The third one, which is the only one who has been released, (yet Taillet had concerns about it’s evolvement and have actually stopped selling it for a while) is called “Les Barres”. It’s the first release in 2006 vintage; 100% Pinot Meunier from 55+ old ungrafted vines (sandy soils like Tarlant’s Vigne d’Antan) - or vieilles vignes Françaises, if you prefer. Like Jérôme Prévost “Les Béguines” it’s taken Pinot Meunier to higher grounds with sophisticated spices, sleek structure and despite Les Barres feels somewhat shy I am always intrigued with Champagnes which uses very low volumes to impress. Les Barres was one of my lunch Champagnes. It did exceptional well with some cheese and ham.

(Champagne is fun - Raphäel Bérèche right)

(The Voodoo Child, aka Ebbe)

(Benoît Lahaye)

(Emmanuel Brochet stopped by)

(Fabrice Pouillon)

Sadly David Léclapart wasn’t personally present at this event. David is one of the kindest wine producers I have ever met, so it wasn’t the same tasting his wines without him there. David’s 2010 are all very promising. In Champagne I found 2007 “L’Amateur” a bit weird. It feels very “steely” and cold and it’s almost like the fruit is frozen and it’s resulting in a very short and slim finish. However, I have learned that David’s wines are very “emotional” things and tend to find themselves in very weird and awkward phases, so it’s too early too dismiss 2007 “L’Amateur”.

The 2006 “L’Artiste” was however utterly sensational. It might be indifferent to compare, but it’s very close to the staggering 2004. I love this raw chalky and straw’ish style it has with fresh apples and lime. I can’t wait to taste 2006 L’Apôtre now. However we would have to settle with 2005 "L’Apôtre" – aren’t we hard to please. I liked it much better this year. It has lost some of its funky potato notes and is now showing deeper fruits scents and round oak feel. It’s not there yet and I would still cellar just a couple of years more.

It’s making me proud to see how Aurélien Laherte is making progress. This young, friendly and incredible humble winemaker has since the birth of “Les Clos” (now called “Les 7”) demonstrated that he belongs among the very best. But it doesn’t stop there – there are improvements all across the Laherte Land and even his bargain “NV Brut Nature” offering is constantly delivering simple authentic drinking pleasure. After I had visited almost all of the producers I returned to Laherte to have a glass of “Brut Nature” and I delivered as it always do. Aurélien presented the newest release of "Vigne d'Autrefois" in 2007 vintage. It’s a very interesting Champagne which plays a game of spices and minerals being blended together. 2007 seems like a delicate and feminine vintage, but there is a lack of structure in those Champagnes I have tasted so far. Even better was the 2007 “Les Empreintes”. A biodynamic farmed Champagne from 40% Chardonnay (1/3 is Chardonnay muscaté) planted in 1957, 40% Pinot Noir planted in 1983 and 20 % Pinot Meunier planted in 1965. It shows exactly Laherte ability to balance a rather rich Champagne, yet preserve sophisticated Asian spices and a balanced sleek mineral finish.

Olivier Horiot is not new to me, yet I have only tasted his Rosé and red wine before. Olivier seems like a very playful person, yet his intense look tells you the guy means serious business when it comes to his wines. They are all very bio-driven and maybe it’s not so political correct Champagnes, but I really like this urban and wildness they have. I see it like this – the more diversity the better. The 2004 Sevé (100% Pinot Noir) has some rather funky aromas of wild cherries. However it’s a bit too nutty and waxy in profile. Having said that I would like to taste it again. The 2006 “5 Sens” (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc and Arbanne – 0 g/l dosage) was probably one of the most floral wines of the event. Incredible funky Champagne, waxy style, yet with poised citrus fruits. I will have to taste it again some day.

Raphäel Bérèche, another young Champagne producer, which is always smiling like life is just a big playground. You can only be in a good mood when you are around him and his Champagnes are constantly getting better. It’s the result of more and more purity with ballerina weightlessness and it’s simply brilliant. Extra Brut Réserve and Beaux Regards prove my case, with juicy, light and crystal clear flavours. His new Pinot Meunier “Vallée de la Marne Rive Gauche” (4 g/l dosage) is pretty irresistible with a very seductive creamy approach with very subtle tones of citrus and spices.

(Françoise Bedel)

(Champagne Couche)

(Serving Champagne makes you thirsty)

(Benoît Tarlant)

(Peter Liem)

One of the worst things about being a poor consumer is that you will always miss out on some of the many great Champagens growers. I feel like that with Benoît Lahaye, which wines are even so fair priced. He really impressed me this year by kicking off with a new cuvée called “Violaine” (50% Chardonnay / 50% Pinot Noir) made entirely without sulfur. The 2008 present at this event demonstrated incredible vivid pure fruit composition and with a singing energy both in fruit core and palate nerve. His 2006 vintage is also worth looking out for. It’s vivid bright fruit with remarkable clarity and a real seductive Champagne.

And how can one forget Benoît Tarlant – so kind, fun and generous. I also visited him a few days after and I am really into his BAM (Pinot Blanc, Arbanne, Petit Meslier), which he also presented in vins clairs at Terre et vins. I have a thing for these very bright flavoured Champagnes, which might be categorized as particular when they go a bit too high pitched. However, when BAM here, knocks over the barometer of energy, I am sold. Benoît might blend the first release of BAM with some reserve wines; to smoothen out those “particular” notes somewhat (don’t do it Benoît….or save a mono-vintage case for me ;-) ). But let’s see. The 2010 Vigne d’Artan in vins clairs seem to have survived the rough weather of 2010 and it’s such a great wine. I also like the Pinot Noir “Mocque Tonneau”, which is very aristocratic. In Champagne he presented a later disgorged version of “Cuvee Louis” (still 1996, 1997 and 1998 vintage). A bit more autolysis has infected this Champagne, but overall it’s still the same great stuff. The 2002 Vigne d’or was also there. It’s a rollercoaster of a Champagne, but I would seriously give it another 2-3 years of cellaring as it seems to have some waxy baby fat components stuck on it’s structure.

I am already looking forward to Terre et vins de Champagne 2012.

“Les ateliers Mets et Vins de Champagne”

(Winemaker, toastmaster of the night and with the finest moustache north of equator; Benoît Tarlant)

All images are clickable and will open a larger format.

The day before the actual start of Terre et vins de Champagne, I had the privileged to take part in "Les ateliers Mets et Vins de Champagne", where each of the 18 producer presented a wine, with a matching 18-course standing tapas dinner. Behind these small mouthfuls of food, floating in a good solid tempo was no other than Château Les Crayères Philippe Mille and Dominique Giraudeau from Le Grand Cerf. Three sommeliers organized the wine/food pairing game; Philippe Jamesse of Les Crayères, Maxime Mantsch of Le Grand Cerf, and from my local backyard; Ulf Ringus (former Noma) from Relæ here in Copenhagen.

As you can imagine, after a 12-hour drive from Denmark - I needed a rest and Champagne with good food was a fairly good cure on a Sunday night. Below are my observations and despite giving some colour on food & wine, it should really be remembered as a joyful and relaxing event.

Menu: Wine (food)

(Scallop/Vanilla)

1. 2004 David Léclapart "Amateur"; (Oyster/Seaweed)

Everything David has made in 2004 is pure magic and the Amateur is no exception. It has this raw chalkiness, combined with straw and grassy notes which makes it a beautiful linear and pure Champagne. Food: I am not an oyster fan, simply due to the texture, so I was happy to see a deep-fried specimen show up. However the oyster tonality was a bit too strong for my taste.

2. 1996 Pascal Doquet "Le Mesnil-sur-Oger"; (Oyster/Salmon/Caviar)

Food & wine was spot on here. And what a Champagne it was. Really refined with immensely friskiness, hay, slim chalkiness and sophisticated spices. Impressive stuff - bring me more

3. 2004 Laherte Frères; (Scallop/Vanilla)

A rather overripe and dense Champagne with components of vanilla and pineapple, which on paper should have been perfect to orchestra the food. However, despite the beautiful visual compositions in the small tin-boxes (see image), the sweet scallops and sweet vanilla aroma didn't have a sufficient counterpoint to balance the dish. It resulted in lack of subtleness; freshness and sadly the pairing didn't work.

4. 2005 Francis Boulard (magnum); (Lobster/Chocolate Tartlet)

So we continue to play with sweetness around classic raw ingredients. It's a tricky game, which challenge both mind and wine pairing. I liked the Champagnes raw and lime zesty appeal, but unfortunately there was a teasing note of pâté in the Champagne, which took away balance. The food wasn't a match made in heaven either, but the small bit was on it's own for sure tasty.

(Pork/Peanuts)

5. 1994, Tarlant Saga; (Pâté en Croûte)

This Champagne had a quit evolved nose of brownish apples, brioche with a solid touch of autolysis. The food came along just perfect, anchoring the full-bodied style of this Champagne. On the last meters, the Champagne drops a bit too soon, but still pretty well done on this vintage.

6. 2001 Hubert Paulet "Risleus"; (Pork/Peanuts)

The shift from Tarlant to Hubert Paulet was twisting things a bit up in my mind. I might have served them the other way round, but fair enough let's see what's happening here. This Champagne was like pure summer and sunshine. A very charming breed, which certainly could be of use, for the joyful days of life. However, if turning to a hard analytic approach, I found the Champagne too sweet for my palate and it didn't really match the food either.

7. 1996 Chartogne-Taillet; (Soy-sauce Duck/Sesame)

Again these shift in style - which always causes me to pause and use some time to level with the new wine. We are more old school again, with autolysis prints, but a devilish frisky acidity really lifted the Champagne, which underlines a trademark of the 1996 vintage. Food had Asian flirtations, which was easy for me to understand, as I have drunk a fair portion of food with Sushi and Asian dishes. Overall super pairing.

8. 1999 René Geoffroy Empreinte; (Foie Gras/Mango Jelly/Gingerbread)

Oh dear. My increasing appetite for Champagne is almost dropping the other way down, when it comes to foie gras. I need foie gras in small dozes and this bite wasn't bad, but not something I was ecstatic about either. The Champagne had a few dilemmas' to deal with. The sweetness paired fairly okay with the dish; however its structure suffered really hard with the fois gras, as I didn't seem to have the bite and acidity.

(The menu - page 1)

9. 1977 Pouillon & Fils Ecueil ; (Foie Gras/ Cereal)

I think only a Sauternes could have matched the food - which had the same viscosity as a chocolate mousse. Here the foie gras violated my limit of what I can take and it wasn't good. The Champagne was an entire different matter - what a stunner in such a difficult vintage. Perfectly mature with fresh appealing notes of newly washed sheets and mango. A bit of cheese flavours also came forward, which took it a notch down, but overall couldn't spoil the fun. Great!

10. 1982 Agrapart & Fils Minéral (magnum); (Morel/Poultry)

Magnums and Champagne is sometimes times two in size and quality. To think of it, I have never tasted a Champagne in magnum, which has disappointed me. This is no exception, even though it took some time for it to open up. At first rather shy, like the flavours was lying in a mist. You sensed that we are talking mature Champagne and slowly rose to the occasion with immensely freshness and frisky acidity. When the food was served it was like - yes....of course. Combo of something with funky forest flavours and light fresh poultry meat, melted together with perfect dosage of 2 g/l. So far the best marriage of food and wine.

11. 1998 Françoise Bedel "Comme Autrefois" ; (Morels)

More morels - I like, which proved to be a solid pairing with "Bedel". In fact, when I think of it, it might be a good lesson to give more focus on such pairing with the Champagnes of Françoise Bedel, as they often lean towards a rather funky biodynamic style of deeper layered fruit. Those notes showed perfectly here and had companionship of moist hay - and despite the Champagne lacking a bit in intensity (I think it's the vintage) - I was overall happy.

12. 2006, Bérèche & Fils Le Cran Rosé 2006 (magnum); (Farm Pigeon/Foie Gras/Blackcurrant).

I have heard stories about this magnum, which is only produces in 30 ridiculous bottles. Here it was. One of my absolute favourite rosé Champagnes and as it would be impossible to steal a bottle and escape the crime scene, I had to settle with a glass (maybe I had two - maybe even three, but don't tell anyone). It's sooooo outrageously good - WOW man, I am flying. Food - well for some odd reason I happen to like pigeon, which has the tendency to split people's minds. I really liked the dish and I didn't even notice the foie gras. I guess I was under the spell of Raphäel's rosé.

1977 Pouillon & Fils Ecueil

13. 2003 Olivier Horiot Rosé des Riceys En Valingrain; (Duck with Morello Cherries)

So let's not forget that they actually produce still wines in Champagne. Here is a beautiful red specimen, of that perfect fragile salty red and smoky fruit. The Champagne even had beautiful kirsch flavours, which went like a glove with food. Lovely.

14. 2004 Benoît Lahaye "Bouzy Rouge"; (Tabbouleh/Beef)

More red wine, but a different style than Horiot. We are still in Champagne, so still a delicate wine, but a more fruity style - which was rather pleasing. Food was a tartar and I didn't really understand the match?

15. 2000 Franck Pascal; (Apple/Caramel)

So we swift back to Champagne again and enter the dessert section. I can understand why it's logical to do it like this, but it's a disaster when it comes to pairing food and wine. The Champagne seemed fair, but ordinary with simple straw aromas. But then again - having sweetness of the apples sticking to your palate made it really hard to judge it properly.

(Ulf Ringus)

16. Goutorbe & Fils Demi-Sec; (Roasted Pineapple)

Despite being in the demi-sec section, I noticed a component of sulphur here, which made it hard for me to continue the journey. Maybe I am overly allergic to this note, but that was my reaction. The roasted pineapple mouthful was a bit simple, but really tasty.

17. 2000 Jeaunaux-Robin Cuvée An; (Cappuccino by Fossati)

Sadly the Champagne was corked. I had a chance to taste another bottle, but that was corked too. I am not a coffee drinker, but the Cappuccino tapas were rather nice.

18. Couche Bulles de Miel; (Shortbread/Pear)

Although I am not a fan of sweet Champagnes (this has 40 g/l of sugar), this is one of the better demi-sec, which I remember doing well with a dessert dish @ restaurant Noma last year. Noma's desserts aren't that sweet, which wasn't the case here and sadly it didn't end in the perfect marriage.

(2005 Francis Boulard (magnum))

What a way to start this event. A good night's sleep and we were ready for more Champagnes the next day.

Stay tuned for more

Terres et vins de champagne 2011 - Intro

(They are not all here - Françoise Bedel and David Léclapart is missing)

Dear readers, I have so many things I want to tell you about Terre et vins de Champagne 2011.

However, before we dig into the liquid stuff, let me first do a small reflection, after having set foot on Danish soil again.

The real mojo of Terre et vins de Champagne is the 18 producers, which together form a ring of strong friendship, which doesn’t make Champagne a contest, but a diversified landscape of strong personalities. There is an aura of pride and history writing over Terre et vins de Champagne, which shows the true passion and craftsmanship of a Champagne grower. There is humbleness from all producers, which gives a calm and informal atmosphere. It brings forward the essence of the matter, where all who have an interest, can chime in to a frequency, which is passionate and friendly. I hope I can come back every single year to this event, because it makes me proud to see how the producers together, manages to send the message, that there is more to Champagne than just a strong brand.

So let start by a big SALUTE!!! For 2011 - see you in 2012.

To come:

Part 1: Pre-dinner: “Les ateliers Mets et Vins de Champagne” 18 Champagnes in the companionship of 18 tapas dishes.

Part 2: Terre et vins de Champagne 2011

Terres et vins de champagne 2011

Don't miss it - a must for all Champagne lovers. See you there.

http://www.terresetvinsdechampagne.com/

2004 Cédric Bouchard “Le Creux d’Enfer Rosé de Saignée”

100% Pinot Noir

Vineyard: 0,032 ha

Age of vines: 31 years

Production: 300-500 bottles

Dosage: 0 g/l

Glass: Spiegelau Adina ”Red wine"

Champagne is not a thing – it’s a wine. To really discover Champagne you have to get beyond that it’s a thing, meant only for special occasions and it’s really rather simple to do that. Just start drinking it like it was any kind of wine and suddenly you take it down from the pedestal and you are truly in love.

Having said that – I needed a “wine” to celebrate my wife’s birthday. What to pick? - Champagne, but of course. But not any kind of Champagne – something special, something I knew she would like. She is not that difficult – in fact I consider her to have, what I would call an exceptional spontaneous palate. It might be a surprise to hear – but she has no idea what we are drinking, even though I do my best to enlighten her wine education. Five minutes after I am done with the sales speech, she has forgotten every single word I have said. But rest assured that the verdict would be swift and unmerciful, if I serve her something she doesn’t like.

I had numerous choices, but knew exactly which one I wanted.

This is the fourth time I taste this rosé, which has to be one of the most limited Champagne productions, but it’s the first time at home, which gives me the opportunity to focus and follow it over a couple of hours.

Already at glass number one, you know you have entered a spaceship set for a journey into the unknown. No rosé, I have tasted, has this profile and Cédric Bouchard has once again proven that some of the best wines in the world doesn’t necessarily fit in on the aroma wheel, but have a dimension of their own. The nose consists of notes, which I am not really sure of. It’s on a degree of guessing, searching in darkness, as if I had just landed on an unknown planet. Here is what I found; boysenberry, cranberry, liquorice, pata negra ham, currant, black olives, red fruit and rosehip. The tonality of these notes is so subtle – yet so intense. It’s a lesson in making a statement you will never forget, but at no time raising your voice. It’s beyond good class and it’s outrageously complex, just to sit there and smell. Tasting it just brings everything in place and the mousse is so fragile, but again so intense perfumes of those mysterious aromas breaking like small swaying waves on the palate.

When the bottle was finished, it was like coming back from hypnosis. I felt uplifted, as I have witness something extraordinary, but also hunger, loneliness and I missed it already. Next time I wish for magnum, even though it will be in my dreams, as it doesn’t exist.

This is truly one of the most significant bottles of Champagnes I have ever tasted.

What else February & March 2011

I'll better write this small wrap-up before it evolves into another 48 wines post.

Champagne

NV Selosse " Version Originale / V.O." (Disgorgement date 16. November 2009)

Under normal circumstances the V.O. starts slightly oxidized and then firms up. However this was not the case here. This bottle used no time at all to strip and it was an outrageous sexy beast from glass one. One of those "sniffer" Champagnes, where you spent most of the time looking like someone that was born with a wineglass glued around your nose. It's typical Selosse; with vanilla, freshly ground butter, ripe apple juice and an utterly divine note of pistachios. But it's the intensity of these aromas, which makes it a really special bottle. Taste is beyond the scale of enjoyment with an incredible rewarding style. Is it the best V.O. I have ever tasted? I think so. So I checked again and had it two weeks later, where I was almost even better. Bravo

2005 Ulysse Colin Bdb, Champagne

I have experienced tremendous amount of bottle variations with this cuvée. Some bottles as tight as a Chablis and others quit evolved. This belongs in the latter section and on day 1 it felt like the Champagne had had it's peak and was heading down. Some of the notes are pleasing enough; acacia honey, warm croissants, browned melted butter - but the notes have very little life and on top they present themselves too overripe. Taste is dull too, even with bitter components and all action (and it's not much) takes place in the front of the mouth. Not good. I didn't drink it all and had already written it off on day two, but it actually was much better (how odd). Still not great Champagne, but some freshness had emerged. So...hmmmm, what to think? After day one I would have suggest "hurry up" and despite the come-back on day two, I would still recommend to drink it now. If looking for cellar potential I would go for the 2006 vintage.

1999 Bollinger "La Grande Anné"

It's natural that you begin to detect components of autolysis. I like those notes, but there is no doubt that drinking more and more breeds of young Champagnes with delightful pure fruit has an affect on me. When autolysis gets companionship of spices, it's required for those spices to be really delicate and fresh. Otherwise it can happen – like with this bottle, the impure spices starts blending themselves with the autolysis notes and it can end up in notes of a dusty sofa. This was the case here and even if I was presented with; black cherries, milk, butter, malt, dark bread it couldn't take away the focus from the "dusty sofa", which took purity and allure massively down. Taste plays with those darker phrasings, where you get those spices again and it's not at all good for the purity hunter like me. I felt disappointed and it's rare I feel that about Bollinger.

1999 Bollinger "La Grande Anné rosé"

I have had this a few times before and it's always a consistent performer. It's the kind of rosé which gives more perfumes of red fruit and doesn't feels like red wine with bubbles. Its gives a more salty style and brings everything to a subtle tonality. However with Bollinger you will always get some of the house classic tense and bold style. It suits this Champagne perfectly and adds a note of plum to the red raspberry aromas. There are only slight fractions of autolysis involved and in general I found it much better than the normal GA.

(Expecting guests)

2002 Vilmart " Grand Cellier Rubis Rosé"

When I bought this Champagne I was ecstatic about it - then it turned into too much happy tutti frutti red fruit with dull oak flavours. But this summer the 1999 vintage really took me by surprise (positive) and me thought why not tango with the 2002 vintage.

Well well well...it has improved and its obvious the equation with these overly red fruit birthday party rosé's is to let them cellar in order for the fruit to dry out a bit and for the notes to be saltier. This is exactly was has started to happen here, but it's not there yet - give it another 2 years. Notes are pretty intense and consist of; Currant, Pinot Noir influence, *iron, spices (there are quit hot) and iodine. Taste is very deep warm and intense and you still get the impression that you are drinking red wine with bubbles. If to say something remotely negative, it's the level of oak, which is quit heavy loaded, but it's something, which I suspect will be better integrated in two years time.

Glasses: For the first time - the Spiegelau Adina gave out some *iron components, which didn't show up in the Zalto white wine. In Zalto the wine was racier and just better. The Zalto White wine has recently been rather interesting to drink Champagne from and I want to test this glass a little more before I begin to write my glass conclusion.

NV Billecart-Salmon Rosé (@ Roka London)

Solid standard NV Champagne. Maybe not overly pure, but still has good harmony of red fruit and spices.

2007 David Léclapart "L'Amateur" (@Fiskebaren, Copenhagen)

Tasted a glass of this in a restaurant. It seemed very shy and almost impossible to approach. I hope to taste it again.

2006 Cédric Bouchard “Les Ursules” (@ The Ledbury, London)

Wonderful – loved it again.

NV Chartogne-Taillet "Cuvée Sainte-Anne" (@ Vijante, London)

Simple refreshing and flowery. Really nice

Reds

2009 Dard et Ribo Saint Joseph "Pitan"

Last summer the 2009 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, 'C'est le Printemps' renewed my love for Rhône, simply because it wasn't very Rhôn'ish. So I gave Dard et Ribo another try and bought a new wine from them after have tasted small samples of their 2009 portfolio. This is incredible juicy stuff without being intrusive with notes of blackcurrant, menthol and Licorice. Taste is round, juicy again, incredible precise and there is a splendid floating style to the wine, which might well be related to the moderate alcohol level of 12.5%. The wine is an ambassador of that thing we call drinking pleasure and I would drink it young despite it can easily cellar another 10 years.

2008 Vogüé "Chambolle-Musigny" (@Fiskebaren, Copenhagen)

A delicious wine, with sweet cherry plum appeal and a velvet mouth feel. Maybe a tad too sweet from the oak, but so pleasing.

2004 Soldera Brunello “Case Basse Riserva” (only one glass)

Sad thing it was only one glass, because it’s outrageously good. I think it’s the most fruit driven young Case Basse I have tasted so far. Juicy, intellectual, sensual and so Italian. WOW!!!!

2004 Giacomo Conterno "Barbera d'Alba"

My last bottle - so I thought (just found an extra one last week), but what a bottle. When this wine was released it was singing with that delightful red fruit so few Barbera's has. Then is shut down and I had my doubts if it ever would shine again. This bottle was bloody nice and so Italian, just how I like it. Notes are; fresh thyme, rosemary, leather, dust, menthol and the fruit have just reached that classic stage of dry elements, which is superb. Taste warms my second Italian heart, but oozes some menthol notes on the last meters, which I think is the result of 14.5% alcohol. Despite feeling a bit more blurry than usual after the last drops, I still consider it to be a great bottle.

2004 Quinta Sardonia “QS”

Horrible. Smelled of animal blood, bacon and with a viscosity close to floating lava.

Whites:

2006 Kongsgaard Chardonnay "The Judge" (@ The Ledbury, London)

My best friend Anders is a dedicated fan of this wine. It's fun to taste this wine with him and see his passion. Wine is also about sharing and learning what drives our palates.

The wine is very oak driven from start with notes of coconut, burned butter, caramel and nail polish. It's a real beast and not really my type of wine. Taste moulds a lot in the mouth and doesn't do much to the term freshness and ends way too muscular and warm.

2002 Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles” (Only one glass)

Very classy and sleek wine. Nose has lots of flowery components, freshly ground butter and smoke. Taste is still very tight with firm and vibrant acidity. A bit of smoke on the mid-palate is the only critique – preventing full mineral explosion, but 3-4 years of cellaring could be the trick.

Links:

http://www.viajante.co.uk/

http://www.theledbury.com/

http://rokarestaurant.com/

http://www.fiskebaren.dk/da/